My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration

[Tractor Dave]

I've checked the fuse box wiring and it seems good. If I disconnect the left side under column plug, it stops. Digi dash also only flashing on and off when key turned

[Tractor Dave]

But better news. Ran the engine up to temp and burped the coolant plus bled the pas. All good, no leaks and fan kicked in. Fixed rattle which was heat shield. Engine ticks over nicely when up to temp.

[Ian Simmonds]

I've checked the fuse box wiring and it seems good. If I disconnect the left side under column plug, it stops. Digi dash also only flashing on and off when key turned

Possibly X relay. Shooting myself in the face here, but try that relay you’re about to post to me in slot 5.

[Tractor Dave]

Possibly X relay. Shooting myself in the face here, but try that relay you’re about to post to me in slot 5.

Don't worry. I have a few

[psiconauta911]

IT´S ALIVE!

Thank you Dave, and congratulations!

[newsh]

But better news. Ran the engine up to temp and burped the coolant plus bled the pas. All good, no leaks and fan kicked in. Fixed rattle which was heat shield. Engine ticks over nicely when up to temp.

Really good news Dave

[Tractor Dave]

Found the wiper/washer issue.


Must have got knocked in storage or when fitting.


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[newsh]

Found the wiper/washer issue.


Must have got knocked in storage or when fitting.


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Can't really see exactly what is going on but something brass looks bent. Lol

[Tractor Dave]

Yes. The brass pin which operates the washer when you pull the stalk back. It bent back into the right shape really easily. New stalks are available but don't have the computer switch on the end.

[K Simmonds]

You did well to revive a K-Jet engine that's been sat in bits for that long without having to spend a fortune on replacement parts. Those systems hate being sat apart in bits for extended periods and getting the bits is nigh on impossible for some cars now.

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[Tractor Dave]

Cheers Kit. Good to see you on the forum.
I thing keeping the meter head clean, dry and upright was key. My rich running also seems to have disappeared and I'm not quite sure what I fixed as I replaced and renovated so many parts during the 're build. Probably a vac pipe or cleaning the WUR.

[Tractor Dave]

Onto the door locks.
The painter didn't re fit the small rod. I discovered that you need to strip everything to do it.
I bought new rods from Tradition as the ball end on the originals were quite crusty.


Whilst in there I found that the drivers side lock wasn't functioning properly.
For a moment I considered using the B3 coupe lock. They are almost identical and with a little trimming would work.

B3 left.

But after cleaning all the crud and old grease out and a re grease, everything was good.


Re assembly is VERY fiddly. Lots of patience and tea required.


And I got new outer seals from Heritage parts. They are the same as Mk1 golf.


Got there in the end.
Onto the door cards. After a deep clean they went on easily. However, the drivers handle electric plug is also a faff!


But now all together.


Next on the list is rear bumper and lights.


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[newsh]

Amazingly your door pockets are in one piece and still attached to the cards! Be sure to use cup washers on the screws or they will pull through.

[Tractor Dave]

Amazingly your door pockets are in one piece and still attached to the cards! Be sure to use cup washers on the screws or they will pull through.

I used nylon washers as the cup ones had already started to dig in. You may also notice the cling film covering a small epoxy repair.

[K Simmonds]

Did you rebuild the warm up regulator mate? I've done a couple now and find the super fine gauze on the inlet port is prone to getting filled with crud... They're not difficult to sort out actually once you've tackled a couple. Your rich running was probably the fuel metering head settling in, though could also have been the warm up Reg or even the accumulator can cause weird problems.

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