I took Varia's suggestion and purchased the upgraded Ultra Tandem brake booster and master cylinder kit. The machine work for the mount is 1st class. The only thing I would complain about is the kit came with everything but the to specail nuts to attach the master cylinder to the booster, which you have to order from VW or Audi...here is the P/N if needed WHT-000-428
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83 Ur Quattro 20v build
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Jeff is on a roll and has the short block built out. The expertise and quality of the build has far exceeded my expectations. Very happy that I was able to get a engine built before he retires.Attached Files- imagejpeg_0.jpeg (155.8 KB, 232 views)
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Originally posted by Blagave View PostJeff is on a roll and has the short block built out. The expertise and quality of the build has far exceeded my expectations. Very happy that I was able to get a engine built before he retires.
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So, motor is all done and being shipped back to me as I post.
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I made a aluminum trans mount for the adjustable link connection to the shifter. I increased the size of the hardware to 8mm with left and right hand threads for adjustment and everything is very strong. I did a test fit in the car and and as details and pictures from Varia / Hanks write up, the shift linkage gets very close to touching at the firewall tunnel, so I cut the tunnel lip and hammered a radius in the tunnel for more clearance. I recoated the metal with seam sealer and all is good.
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Finally received the C4 Shifter and mount. Per the information provided, I believe by the "Hank's" conversion (pic included), I was suppose to get a B3 90/CQ base plate and I could not understand why. I reached out to a few people and either they don't remember why it was that way or they shared other options to mount. Basically its what ever your capable of doing and works, with that said, I saw no reason why I shouldn't modify the C4 brackets.
I am sorry, but I forgot to take a picture of the C4 shifter before I modified, but tried to piece it back together in a photo. Bottom line is the C4 shifter comes with (2) rods, one connects to the the shifter and the other is a mount for the linkage. The mount does not convert, so I cut it off and made mounts for the shift ball housing to attach to the shifter mount, so it has the same solid mount as the rod that was removed. Time will tell if my adjustment works, but so far everything bolts right in the chassis.....we will see how it connects to the trans and shifts a bit latter....fingers crossed.Attached Files- 8AC4A848-3787-4558-BD74-2E4D4523B33D.jpeg (553.4 KB, 183 views)
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Originally posted by Blagave View PostI made a aluminum trans mount for the adjustable link connection to the shifter.
BTW, there is an OEM bolt-on/almost bolt-on linkage with upper ball for such setup: Audi A4 B7, Audi A6 C6 with 02X transmission.
3dTyHlFuB7Q.jpg?size=2560x1920&quality=96&sign=fba213e5369b9f6f81683ac47e937353&type=album.jpg
This upper-ball linkage clears B3 transmission tunnel.
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I was provided "Hanks" version of the linkage mod and built based on pictures. I have noticed that their are a few ways that others have modified the linkage and shifter. I can move the link to the bottom side of the shift linkage to lower if need be.
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Originally posted by _ShurikeN View Post
Why do you need the link that high above the gearbox?
BTW, there is an OEM bolt-on/almost bolt-on linkage with upper ball for such setup: Audi A4 B7, Audi A6 C6 with 02X transmission.
3dTyHlFuB7Q.jpg?size=2560x1920&quality=96&sign=fba213e5369b9f6f81683ac47e937353&type=album.jpg
This upper-ball linkage clears B3 transmission tunnel.
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Today is a good day, received the engine back from Jeff at Four Rings. I have lots to do before installing in car, but happy to have it back so I can test fit parts before it does go in the car.
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Installed Ringer Racing billet flywheel and clutch.....really nice quality and the owner is great to work with.
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Started upgrading the fuel system. The fuel tank was surprisingly clean on the inside, no rust or varnish build, so I used a tank cleaner and flushed the tank.
I cut off the supply and return lines on the bottom of the tank and brazed -8 tubing and AN fittings on. I will run S.S braided line from tank to fuel pump and to the S.S return line.
Added sound deadening material to trunk.
I sent a drawing to BMR and they bent up S.S -8 supply line and a -6 return line with AN fittings, to replace the oem hard lines.
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Made all new S.S brake lines and added a Tilton brake bias valve, which was a suggestion from varia, since I am not using ABS and it allows to set the balance from front to rear. I mounted the controller in the lower dash storage.
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