83 Ur Quattro 20v build

[Blagave]

Enjoying the updates, keep them coming
Interested in the porsche oil catch can set up. I get fumes in the cabin and I want to do something similar to what you've done. Can you post a bit more info please?

Hi sal-s2,
Regarding the Porsche crank case breather canister, its part number 930-107-321-01.
Just to recap, I am not using any of the oem venting system. I am using the same crank case exit port on the engine and run a line to the 2nd port from the top. The top port is then returned to the lower rear of engine below valve cover vent and the bottom of canister is a returned to the oil return line from turbo at block.
I tied the two valve cover vents together and ran my vent down behind bumper.

When the canister is used on a Porsche, the top canister port has a hose that splits off and one goes to valve cover and one goes to filter. I have been told my plumbing will work, but it would not be hard to add a "T" on the top hose.

There are many style breather cans you can choose from and in hindsight I probably would have gone with a breather that already had the filter on it and then just removed the filter and ran a hose to out of the engine bay and reconnected the filter.

[sal_s2]

Enjoying the updates, keep them coming
Interested in the porsche oil catch can set up. I get fumes in the cabin and I want to do something similar to what you've done. Can you post a bit more info please?

[Blagave]

The urq drove off the lift for the first time since I purchased it.....big mile stone.
Hopefully, will get the alignment done this coming week.

[Blagave]

Part of checking the wiring out, I tested the brake lights, turn signals, backup etc and everything worked accept for the rear tail lights only work on running lights and dont work with headlights on....need to fighure that out.
I noticed how hot the bulbs get and decided to do what I did on another build and that is to use LED bulbs.
I am going to be using the smoked Frankani lens, which have red, yellow and clear lens on the inside, so you can use clear bulbs, but I decided to get amber for turn signals, clear for backup and red for running and brake (Still waiting on red)
The bulbs are plug and play and bright. plus cool to the touch. The only thing that you need to change is the flasher relay to a LED flasher relay, other wise they will flash rapidly.

[Blagave]

A bunch of little things are being addressed. I could not find the mount for the battery, so I made one.

[Blagave]

Clutch pedal had some slop and found the bushing was completely worn out that connects the slave cylinder rod. I used some brass and turned a new bushing, worked out great.

[Blagave]

Made a cover for the motec ECU. I welded a couple of zeus tabs on the cage and used aluminum for the cover. I still need to clean up the wiring and the cover will get carpet to blend in with the foot well.

[Blagave]

Sometimes you have to go backwards to move forwards.

1. Re-plumbed the engine venting, picking up both breathers on the top of the valve cover and venting to a K&N filter tucked behind the passenger side bumper space. I'm using the Porsche breather canister that does not have its own external breather like some of the others. I did not want the fumes staying in the engine bay, so hopefully this configuration will work out.

2. I reconfigured my fuel lines, which changed the position of the E85 sensor. I made a new mount for both the boost controller and E85 sensor, which worked out nicer than the old mount.

[4WDrifter]

Very tidy!!

[Blagave]

Just finished up the fuel pump relay upgrade. I used the same style fused relay as the fan and mounted it in the trunk.

I was contemplating on moving the battery to the trunk and decided to leave it as is under the rear seat, but ran cable from the battery to a two piece quick connect in the trunk, where I can attach a jumper cables or battery tender without accessing the battery.

[Blagave]

that is pretty nice!!!!!

Thank you my friend.

[varia]

Since my build is a bit of a hybrid, using the 1986 Coupe GT body harness and fuse box along with digital dash that Pete is refurbing for me, I purchased the Plex 330 digital display that links up with the Motec ECU to provide much more engine information than the Audi digital dash could ever provide. The display comes with GPS for speedo and will do lap times if desired. The screens are adjustable for what ever info you want displayed and has a few different screens you can access with the button pad

I removed the digital volt/temp display out of the center console and made aluminum face plates for the Plex display, push button pad for display, window switches and aux lights. Everything fits nicely and can be removed easily if I need to get to the tunnel cap I made to adjust shifter.

that is pretty nice!!!!!

[Blagave]

Since my build is a bit of a hybrid, using the 1986 Coupe GT body harness and fuse box along with digital dash that Pete is refurbing for me, I purchased the Plex 330 digital display that links up with the Motec ECU to provide much more engine information than the Audi digital dash could ever provide. The display comes with GPS for speedo and will do lap times if desired. The screens are adjustable for what ever info you want displayed and has a few different screens you can access with the button pad

I removed the digital volt/temp display out of the center console and made aluminum face plates for the Plex display, push button pad for display, window switches and aux lights. Everything fits nicely and can be removed easily if I need to get to the tunnel cap I made to adjust shifter.

[Blagave]

Hit another mile stone, tested the drive train.

When I installed the engine and trans awhile back, I spent a great bit of time trying to get the shifter linkage correct and thought I had done so........well, I was wrong. What I thought was reverse was 1st gear...ugh.

With some guidance from Mark (EFI) and Varia, I was able to get reverse and all the gears working smoothly. One of the issues was the metal shift guide form the C4 shifter, the metal where the hole is cut out for depressing the shifter for reverse was to straight up and down not allowing for full rotation on the shift rod to engage reverse, plus adjusting the linkage better.

Since my car is not being built as all original , I took the liberty of cutting a 3" section out of the top of the tunnel to access the bolt to adjust the shifter rod otherwise, I would have to take off the drive shaft and exhaust. I used the piece I cutout and welded flanges all the way around so it can be a removable cap. I added hush mat on top and bottom and used sheet metal clips and screws to re-attach. In the future, if I need to adjust the rod, I can access through the top of the center console, which I am modifying and will share later.

[Tractor Dave]

Sounds awesome