My silver RS2 Project

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks. Someone might find it helpful one day.

The rest of the alarm came out without any major issues. Unfortunately, it only cut into the ignition so I won't have solved non starting. The ignition switch was a mess.





Then I checked the key. It would appear to have a chip.


Had a peek in the ecu while it was out.


Pulled the cluster and gave the contacts on the immobiliser module a good clean.


During lunch I renovated the gear change leather. It was very dry and badly scuffed in areas.




And the inside got fed.


This lot should shave 0.3 of a second off 0-60. lol


Whilst crawling around the drivers footwell I decided this needed to go.


Fortunately I had a very good spare from the cabbie I broke a while back.



I shall have another go starting tomorrow.


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[Tractor Dave]

So a rather frustrating day in the garage.
I swapped the ecu with the Nothelle to see what would happen.


Still no start.

I pulled a plug and it's dry.

I have voltage with ignition on at the injectors and at the coils.



I have fuel pressure at the start of the fuel rail.

So I'm thinking it must be g40. It's new so either it's not correctly positioned or the wires could be damaged.

Tea break then back at it.


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[Pibbow]

So did you have another go after your tea break??

[Tractor Dave]

Yes.
Still no luck.
I was really hoping to find a broken wire under this damage.


But it was all good.



I have a small hand held oscilloscope that I can test G40 output with but the battery was flat as it hasn't been used for a long time. It should be charged up tomorrow.


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[Tractor Dave]

Not much of an update because my oscilloscope is playing up and I had to do logs today.
However, I did have a Quick Look at my steering wheel. It is upside down with wheels pointing straight ahead.


Due to the airbag clock spring you can't just remove and put it back the right way. I think what's happened is that the steering rack has been removed and then replaced when the steering wheel wasn't upright. So I need to undo the rack lower joint, rotate the wheel to the correct position and then re join the rack.
Anyone confirm this?


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[John.]

So I need to undo the rack lower joint, rotate the wheel to the correct position and then re join the rack.
Anyone confirm this?

Sounds about right, but depending on previous work carried out the clock spring could be damaged depending on whether you rotate clockwise or anti-clockwise ? I've never had my airbag wheel off so can't fully relate to your situation ....... taking the clock spring assembly off and turning it by hand clockwise 'till it starts to tighten up and then (counting the turns) anti-clockwise 'till it starts to tighten, then you can ascertain it's mid position/wheels straight ahead.

[Tractor Dave]

Judging by my fault codes it might already be dead

[John.]

Judging by my fault codes it might already be dead

If so you've nothing to lose by stripping it to investigate ?! Maybe some prodding with an ohmmeter first to confirm.

[Tractor Dave]

Yes, good plan. And I've read up on dealing with clock springs on the interweb so have a better understanding. I will have a dig later

[Tractor Dave]

Back to engine matters.
My oscilloscope needs a new rechargeable battery so I decided to get creative.
I set up a little test loom with an old led light.



On turning the engine over it flashed confirming the sensor is working.
Next step is to check physical timing. I set the engine to tdc and confirmed we are good. Nothing has slipped or broken.

Onto the speed and crank sensor. Removed and they look good. They are connected to the right plugs.


I'm not sure how to test these but they aren't expensive so I've ordered a new pair.

With the sensors removed I was able to confirm that the trigger pin on the flywheel is still in place.



You can just see it in the above pic.

Now, top tip. Rotating the engine is simple if you can get to the crank bolt but with the intercooler in place it's nigh on impossible. I found that with the crank position sensor and speed sensor removed you can carefully use a large flat bladed screwdriver to push the flywheel down using the starter ring. Moves nice and slow too so easy to get the timing mark lined up.


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[John.]

How many wires to the speed/crank sensors?

[Tractor Dave]

Both appear to be three. I haven't peeled back the insulation though.

[Tractor Dave]

Now. I found something interesting.
Another forum member (Trist) suggested checking the central locking vac pump. He previously had a non starting car due to it being disconnected.
So I had a look.


Two wires have been cut.
I've rejoined them. Let's see what happens.



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[John.]

It's been half an hour, you're driving about in it yes !

[Tractor Dave]

No, I'm having my dinner