My silver RS2 Project

[Tractor Dave]

Unfortunately boost is still being cut.
I ran the fuel delivery test again and I'm still not getting the volume I should be.


I've had a good look in the tank and everything is connected fine with no kinks in the pipes or anything loose.
Has the pump gone faulty after just a few hundred miles or am I missing something.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

So this morning I investigated further.
I drained some petrol from the tank as it was almost full.


My tank cap is a little ropey if anyone has a good spare.


Bingo! What's this crud?


The bottom of the fuel pump filter is almost completely blocked!


And some old silicone sealant. Never ever use this to seal your tank cap!


So I need to remove the basket to clean it and fully drain and clean the tank. Yes, I know, I should have done this before fitting the new pump. Doh! What a #### I am sometimes.
Anyway, getting the basket out is easy when you have done it a few times. The right size length of timber, placed in the right place and a couple of gentle blows with a large rubber mallet is all that's required. Remember that you want to turn the basked anti clockwise.



The basket is also quite dirty.


And underneath even worse.


The difference between Rs2 (left) and S2 Avant basket.


So now I need to drain the rest of the fuel, clean everything up and put it all back together. Phew.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GT500]

I'm just on with getting my ur running after a 15 year sleep. Petrol side of the operation is definitely a pain. I'm nearly there. The banjo on the pump had rotted through! Made for smelly garage!

[Tractor Dave]

There was quite a bit left!


I cleaned the last bit out with an old towel.


The basket got a really good wash


And dry


I'm changing the cap seal.


These are the lugs that slot into the basket holder. There is a mark on the basket that needs to line up with a mark on the basket holder. Rotate clockwise to re install.


I put some Vaseline on the slots to aid fitting. Once you get the basket in the right position it's just a matter of giving it a whack in the right place.


My boy is 3d printing me a tool but it's in development.
Just waiting for a pair of new crush washers for the outlet on the tank cap then I can finish the job and test the car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

All back together. I filtered all the petrol whilst putting it back.


And got lots of muck out.


Took her for a test drive and she is running fantastic again. Boost is back and nice and strong.
Now, you know how these cars are. There is always something to fix. My clutch pedal felt odd. I removed the panel above the pedals for an inspection and I can see there is flex in the push rod. I did some research here and found that the plastic joint fails. Another little job to do!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[K Simmonds]

Just been reading through, I was going to suggest crap in the tank after the failed fuel flow test but obviously you've sorted that out. A bit of a pain but a nice easy fix.

[Crasher]

I still have the genuine tool for that pump, only used it once in the last decade...

[Tractor Dave]

Amazing. There must be a few out there left sitting in garages around the place.

Anyway, on to the clutch master. It seems I have a spare in my parts collection (as you do).


However. This has a m6 thread on the end of the rod. It should be M8. I did some digging and original masters are only available at Tradition and are mighty expensive. I rang Quattro Corner on the off chance that he still had some originals but he can't get them and sells one with a M6 thread and a new clevis to fit. It's also quite expensive.
So, I decided to get creative.
This is the little joint that causes the issues. It has a rubber internal bush which obviously disintegrates.


I have an engineer friend and I'm going to ask him if he car make a copy without the bush.
In the meantime, I decided to adapt the new rod.

The M6 thread was cut off and a new M8 welded on.





It doesn't look pretty but it's strong.

Removing the master isn't my favourite job.
I removed the airbox top and brake reservoir heat shield to give a little more space.


A shallow container to catch any fluid.


12mm spanner for the pipe nut.


Inside the car it's tight.
Fortunately I have the correct long 6mm Allen to undo the cap heads.






And the clevis is removed with a 13mm spanner.
The bulkhead seal just pulls out easily and the master cylinder comes out via the engine bay after a wiggle inside.


I measured the rod length carefully so it goes back the same.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tractor Dave]

Got this finished this morning. Last night I couldn't get the outlet pipe nut to thread into the master, despite spending about 30 mins on it. In the morning, with a fresh head I knew exactly what was needed. The pipe needs to be perfectly true in order to get the nut threaded in. Undoing this joint allowed me to get it right and it screwed straight in.


Then it was just a matter of bleeding.
Turn the steering to the right and remove the gear change linkage (one 10mm bolt).






I don't pump up the pressure too much. About 10psi. Pump the pedal slowly a few times then leave it down before closing the bleed nipple. Jobs done and nice smooth clutch operation. Happy face.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Pibbow]

Fantastic progress David

[4WDrifter]

I’m blown away again Dave. Thanks for sharing it all in pictures mate.

[Crasher]

Bit late now but I (well my customer) do have a spare new genuine clutch MC (and slave) from Tradition due to being a **** and ordering them twice.

[Tractor Dave]

Bit late now but I (well my customer) do have a spare new genuine clutch MC (and slave) from Tradition due to being a **** and ordering them twice.

Its always handy to have spares

[4WDrifter]

Bit late now but I (well my customer) do have a spare new genuine clutch MC (and slave) from Tradition due to being a **** and ordering them twice.

I wouldn’t put it too far away, I suspect you might get a few PM enquiries, spare or not!

[johne]

Go back 20 years and I recall plenty of debate over whether the rubber knuckle in the pushrod was needed and what it was actually there for??? It was often the first item to fail in the clutch system, especially if you had an uprated pressure plate.

Fortunately, after a run of 3 pressure plate failures (another Audi design delight ) the last Audi supplied (actually Luk brand) pressure plate had a much lower pedal pressure which then took the loading off the knuckle and has lasted over 100,000 miles.