S2 Avant MTM -> RS2 -> GT3071R -> CT355

[Bram]

Nice going Bram/Jyrki! Do you have any dyno plots to share? Great idea on the airbox suction meter, there is power to be had when you have too much suction in the airbox housing.

Marc, thank you too to help me with the base-map of VEMS and for your times when I called you

I have no dyno plots, since we did all the mapping on the Dutch roads (speed limit 120 km/u) and the German autobahn (for the 5th gear pulls till 7000 RPM and some 6th gear pulls to see how the full load in the low-mid RPM range goes). I will try to go to a dyno very soon, so I can compare it also with previous RR sessions with my car on that same Superflow Dyno. I will share my dyno results off course, and will put it here in the topic.

The Filter Minder (let's call it the Repo-mod from now on ) can also be used with a open air filter. We have drilled a hole in the MAF housing to get it connected in between the airfilter and the turbo intake.

[Bram]

congratulations Bram


very nice to see you happy with the new turbo setup


Carsten and Jirky must be a great Pro´men


PD: 500hp only changing forged steel rods??of course only talking about engine internals


take care with your earth to earth Missile

Rocco thanks.

The only mechanical things that I changed on engine itself are:

• Scat H-beam rods
• new RS2 rod bearings
• new piston rings
• lightly honed the cyclinder walls, as the original hones were still visible
• ARP head studs (torqued up to 90Nm)
• ADU exhaust cam, 3B intake cam (for the dizzy wheel)
• adjustable cam gear (on the exhaust cam) and adjustable cam sprocket (on the inlet cam) made by Pro-Mo Racing (Jyrki)
• new OE hydrolic lifters (not the lightweight version)
  

The rest of the engine and cylinder head (crank, pistons, valve springs, etc.) is OE and the engine has not been balanced. I did check the weight of the Scat rods though and they were all 5 the same weight (on both ends of the rod and in total for the whole rod). I am still using the original crank bearings/bolts and OE crank front damper.
From Jamil I got the front pulley sprocket made out of CNC machined steel as the original crank sprocket is so weak.

[OOOO]

Brilliant

Well done to you and everyone who worked on your car

-Sadiq

[Jamo]

You have AEM dryflow 3.5" x 9" on the way.

Where can you buy these in europe the 4" x 9"? only see them for sale in the US

[GazzaG60]

filters.

hks is ok. if you need big id recommend unifilter and jetex.

jetex will custom make them in different colours. my mate had a few made for r cased turbos. bout 18 inches long for the subarus. maybe 5 inch across.

i have a unifilter off a subaru wrc of some type. its bout 12 inches long and 5 across. sits doen front behind the intercooler where aircon isn't

[GazzaG60]

maybe worth a few pics on saturday at the leeds meet. it aint pretty as im not into "cleaning" or "finishing"

as a side not apexi used to do good filters. needs to be bigger than those 2 for mme though. the twin cone with angle looks liek a G40 filter for a 1.3 polo

[repo]

Where can you buy these in europe the 4" x 9"? only see them for sale in the US

From here.

[Bram]

From here.

[A80Avant]

on the air filter note, i have never heard anything bad about the HKS. can someone direct us to those who have found that it leaves particles that may potentially be dangerous for the turbo or intake?

[Jamo]

on the air filter note, i have never heard anything bad about the HKS. can someone direct us to those who have found that it leaves particles that may potentially be dangerous for the turbo or intake?

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

Quite well known on the web

[A80Avant]

thanks

[Jamo]

I had help from my welder to modify the downlipe and fix it with a V-band flange in order to accept my new CT.

Also got rid of the WG flange and closed the hole. It's not the cleanest fix, but I think it works. I will run a seperate WG pipe (a "screamer") and will look into a small damper to make it a bit silent once doing WOT.

Next to that we welded 2 bungs on the turbo hotside. One for EGT and one for backpressure.

The next days I will remove the ABY IM and OEM coils/POS and put in place the 034MS HO coils kit.

Bram have you got the nut sizes and the depth that was required for this?

[jogi730]

Bram have you got the nut sizes and the depth that was required for this?

[Nero]

Just to mention the difference between the Garrett GT3071R 0.63 vs. the CT355 0.63 setup, I will sum up my observation. I have to admit the cam re-clocking is of some influence here, but nevertheless I think there are a lot of differences between the turbos.

GT3071

- Starts to pull from 2900 RPM with positive boost (0.5) and hitting 1.8 bar at 3200 in the higher gears. It's a very short RPM range where the boost is build up and feels like an on/off switch. Most of the time the partial throttle control resulted in an outburst of turbo boost, and thus making it a tricky daily driver turbo to get used to.

- Starts to run out of puff above 6000 RPM. Again this can be due to my original ADU cam wheel and cam timing I had then, and the conservative mapping done by my previous Dutch tuner. On the other hand since the turbine wheel is not as big as the CT355 one it makes sense. Probably the GT3071R is good for 450 crank HP when tuned to it's max.

Have to comment on this mate. Your 3071 was mapped very mildly because of the clutch. The mapping wasn't complete and quite far from maxxed out. I don't think that a 1:1 comparison of the 2 turbos is fair, torque on the 3071 was limited to 500-520Nm to keep grip on the clutch. We always felt that there was more potential in that turbo.

But awesome work on our Avant mate.

Very wise not to use a HKS filter. You better use a panty of Hanna instead.

(oh Hanna is in the USA, you probably are wearing a panty of her right now )

[Bram]

LMAO

You better go wash your mouth with that sea salt shampoo of yours