UrS4 2.2T Avant project
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Yes, I found that there is 15V regulators available, but this mod cost me 90 cents(which was a robbery of one diode). In UrS4 it's also like 1min job to take out the regulator.From reading the link in the above post, the person could have also switched to a 120amp alternator, and bought a 15v regulator.
I've put a 15v regulator on all of my cars and found no issues. Windscreen wipers, dash lights, horn, fuel pump, electric windows, etc. are that much 'better'.
YMVV.

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Old and thin wiring, the more load you put the more the voltage will drop. Have to check the logs how low it goes. But at least the voltage is higher than before. 13.7V from the alternator is just too little, you never even get a full battery.
MaxxECU should work with the Lupo 60-2 trigger yes. But hasn't got any trigger errors with stock triggers anymore. Of course not driving with full load and rpm's yet... The great thing is that you can adjust the trigger voltages for different rpm areas, so now it seems that it's triggering without faults. Also the fault code feature is nice, it stores and counts the errors. You can clear them from the Tab.Leave a comment:
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From reading the link in the above post, the person could have also switched to a 120amp alternator, and bought a 15v regulator.I have to re-check the alternator voltage, but I remember it wasn't 14V, more like 13.5-13.7V. And there will propably bee some voltage drop in the wires, but yes, that feels like too much drop. The MDash did first show something like 12.9-13.1V when the car was idling, but the voltage seems to drop when switching on lights and driving.
A new alternator regulator could help..? Have anyone seen regulators that will output more than 14V, would like to have the charge closer to 15V.
This could be cheap solution to test: http://www.hax.se/alternator/
I've put a 15v regulator on all of my cars and found no issues. Windscreen wipers, dash lights, horn, fuel pump, electric windows, etc. are that much 'better'.
YMVV.
Also and check and clean your alternator and engine earths. Make sure the oem engine earth strap is still in place and hasn't been left off over the years.
Last edited by macspring; 10 July 2015, 07:20.Leave a comment:
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Post 1609
I have ordered some diodes to do this mod
Nice one Thomas
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I have to re-check the alternator voltage, but I remember it wasn't 14V, more like 13.5-13.7V. And there will propably bee some voltage drop in the wires, but yes, that feels like too much drop. The MDash did first show something like 12.9-13.1V when the car was idling, but the voltage seems to drop when switching on lights and driving.
A new alternator regulator could help..? Have anyone seen regulators that will output more than 14V, would like to have the charge closer to 15V.
This could be cheap solution to test: http://www.hax.se/alternator/
Last edited by Thuppu; 9 July 2015, 03:52.Leave a comment:
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So you have around 14volt at the alternator and 12volt on the ECU??
If yes i think its smart to look at that. Its very important to have a stable 14 Volt everywhere in the car.Leave a comment:

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