UrS4 2.2T Avant project

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  • Thuppu
    replied
    Well, I don't have any electronic fuel pressure monitoring, only an mechanical gauge on the FPR to check the base pressure. And I use 4bar base pressure. But I could fit a second mechanical gauge outside the window to see how the pressure acts at boost.

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  • quattro-nick
    replied
    Originally posted by Thuppu
    What can cause so high injector duty? Bad engine blowby? Or is it high? I have no experience with these kind of things...
    I also had this problem in the past so I have set my fuel pressure higher and problem was solved (i'm using a adjustable fuel pressure regulator)
    here is a picture where i measure the fuel pressure on AAN fuel rail
    Attached Files

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  • mushasho!
    replied
    I'd suggest a sensor for fuel... it can never hurt to monitor pressure as well...

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  • V6quattro
    replied
    Originally posted by Thuppu
    Looking at the logs my eye caught quite high fuel duty values like 70-80%. Isn't it quite much for my 624hp setup? Injectors are Bosch EV1 1980cc@4bar. The map is quite rich in the upper end due the fact it started to go lean on the dyno because of high fuel temps.

    Log says for example:


    rpm 6847
    lambda 0.790
    bar 2.91
    69.3% duty

    rpm 7497
    lambda 0.756
    bar 2.85
    77.6% duty

    rpm 8018
    lambda 0.723
    bar 2.83
    79.9% duty

    I'm running high injector duty-cycle as my injectors are to small (1300cc @3.6bar ev14)

    3e gear pull

    rpm 6847
    lambda 0.790
    330kpa boost
    89% duty

    rpm 7497
    lambda 0.79
    330kpa boost
    95% duty

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  • diesel des
    replied
    Poor fuel flow. Low voltage to injector. Pressure falling off due to blockage or restriction. Can you monitor pressure in the fuel rail when the duty cycle rises.

    Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

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  • Thuppu
    replied
    What can cause so high injector duty? Bad engine blowby? Or is it high? I have no experience with these kind of things...

    Leave a comment:


  • Thuppu
    replied
    Slowly starting to get the idea of how to adjust the boost duty table... maybe..?

    1.5 bar table




    Still need to do some small tweaking on the 2.4bar table but got rid of the oscilation

    Last edited by Thuppu; 18 October 2015, 06:58.

    Leave a comment:


  • Thuppu
    replied
    Originally posted by maiks
    On my urs6 were also problems with leaking coolant liquid. I searched and searched but didn't see anything and one day I was driving and coolant liquid level light turned on, I opened the hood and liquid flew everywhere. Same hose as Yours, leaked, tiny hole where the clamp was. I went fast to the garage (20 km away) and when I touched the hose, it broke in to peaces. And all liquid ran out in seconds, thank god it held until home.
    Luckily repairing cost 3 euros
    Yea, sometimes repairs are cheap. Usually not.

    Mine was not oem hose, have changed it few years back, hose was fine, needed just to tighten the clamp.

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  • Thuppu
    replied
    Have also been playing with my new MAC 4-port boost valve, trying to adjust the open loop boost duty tables. Not so easy when you don't have any experience with this. I got the multimap switching to work 3 different boost maps, like in this vid:



    And also the low boost table is ready, the supercharger boosting max ~1.75bar and turbo boost is 1.6bar stright line that dropps in the end to 1.5bar. Would be nice to dyno how much the power is with this map..? The high power boost maps still need some work. I have problems with the boost oscilating up and down...


    Looking at the logs my eye caught quite high fuel duty values like 70-80%. Isn't it quite much for my 624hp setup? Injectors are Bosch EV1 1980cc@4bar. The map is quite rich in the upper end due the fact it started to go lean on the dyno because of high fuel temps.

    Log says for example:


    rpm 6847
    lambda 0.790
    bar 2.91
    69.3% duty

    rpm 7497
    lambda 0.756
    bar 2.85
    77.6% duty

    rpm 8018
    lambda 0.723
    bar 2.83
    79.9% duty
    Last edited by Thuppu; 17 October 2015, 12:04.

    Leave a comment:


  • maiks
    replied
    On my urs6 were also problems with leaking coolant liquid. I searched and searched but didn't see anything and one day I was driving and coolant liquid level light turned on, I opened the hood and liquid flew everywhere. Same hose as Yours, leaked, tiny hole where the clamp was. I went fast to the garage (20 km away) and when I touched the hose, it broke in to peaces. And all liquid ran out in seconds, thank god it held until home.
    Luckily repairing cost 3 euros

    Leave a comment:


  • Thuppu
    replied
    Have been suffering from slow coolant loss the whole summer, have been needing to fill up the reservoir every here and then. I remember I slowly lost coolant last year also, but now it started to escape faster and faster leaving a puddle under the car. Seemd to pour from the front of the engine but couldn't locate where the leak was(was suspecting the water pump), untill this week when I got home from work, parked the car and saw coolant dripping fast under the car. Finally I was able to locate the leak. It was leaking from the turbo(wastegate in my setup) cooling hose under the intake. Seemd the hose clamp was loose, I wonder who has forgot to tighten it..? Amazing that the coolant loss have been so small all the time.



    The cold weather and e85 fuel is also quite challenging. I have been adjusting the enrichments to get good cold starts, and it is nice now. Something like minus 7-8C degrees is the coldest nights for now and the engine fires up without issues. Maybe the 30-60 degree engine temp area was a little bit to rich. A week with just cold starts and short drives to work and back made my oil volume to rise. This was because the oil temps never did go up so that the ethanol had a chance to evaporate. Then a couple of WOT launches made my breather to go nuts...



    The smell of alcohol was quite enormous. Luckily the police didn't stop me for alcohol testing.

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  • orignalS60
    replied
    I like the mesh look but I like the oem grill
    as well. Either way Thomas your car is
    badass.

    Leave a comment:


  • macspring
    replied
    An oem front grille may be nicer.





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  • Thuppu
    replied
    I run 300x450x76mm core size IC, but it is too small for this setup. Intake temps was 100C degrees on track. Of course I forgot to take off the licence plate, there are holes behind it.

    I also had some trouble with the fueling. Started to go lean in the upper end, propably some of the pumps are dying..?

    The grill is propably some Kamei replica, bought it used and there is no marks on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • orignalS60
    replied
    Nice track shots of your car.

    Leave a comment:

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