Terrybullwon's Racing S2 coupe

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  • S2_Rennfahr
    replied
    Regarding the bolts on the turbo are loosening,have you tested Nord-Lock washers?

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  • speeding-g60
    replied
    Incoming...... socks arrived today. Are we waiting on anything else, Chef??

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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  • terrybullwon
    replied
    Originally posted by Error404
    Tatech?
    Yep, Hence the funny pin out i asked for on your harness

    Another little task, make the sub frame fit the 4" down pipe, seem weld and solid mount

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  • Error404
    replied
    Tatech?

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  • terrybullwon
    replied
    Originally posted by quattro-nick
    now that's a big exhaust chef!
    what turbo is that? power goal?
    Yep!

    Its a Garrett Gt35 should be good for 550hp on petrol and more race fuel with out throwing loads of boost at it

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  • quattro-nick
    replied
    now that's a big exhaust chef!
    what turbo is that? power goal?

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  • terrybullwon
    replied
    Not quite yet

    Been hammering out the 80, Should be done by the end of march.
    Using some old super touring car suspension. Just having the dampers serviced and dyno'd now and a new set of springs made to match the corner weights and ride height. Jay at DMD is doing a stella job of making some clamps to locate the standard hub. As the touring car item is far to low.

    Exhaust was testing 4" oval












    Last edited by terrybullwon; 10 February 2016, 21:56.

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  • speeding-g60
    replied
    This all, Chef??





    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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  • Audi_CQ
    replied
    Originally posted by terrybullwon
    Is that with the ARB's on still? Which diffs are you using and what ramp angles?
    Also what damper rate did you try on the low speed bump?
    I am convinced with a decent set of wets i would have been alot better off.

    Front ARB removed and Whiteline rear ARB.

    Used a 25% 1 way front LSD, but is now removed.

    40/60 RS4 center diff from Prospeed

    Have tried both a torsen/V8 and 75% 1.5 way plate rear LSD(not sure about the ramp angles I'm afraid ). The V8 didn't hold the power and failed at a trackday.

    Have fixed dampers. Bilsteins with motorsport valves.

    Good set of wets helps, but my $0.02 is that with to much front grip the center diff pushes more power to the front and it understeers. The 40/60 center helped a bit, but was much better without the front LSD in the wet. Better with a bit of tire spin then not being able to get round the corner at anything other then "walking pace"

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  • terrybullwon
    replied
    Originally posted by Audi_CQ
    After driving in the wet I removed my front LSD. It was understeer from hell on corner exit if you not went for it big time and got the rear out, but I'm not a good enough driver to drive like that
    No problem in he dry either without the front LSD so OK to remove it with my setup/car.

    Tried using no gasket at all between turbo and manifold? If flat your OK with only a very very thin layer of exhaust sealer and then just bolt it solid together. I've done it like that and it has woorked OK for years. Just retighten the bolts/nuts after some use.
    Is that with the ARB's on still? Which diffs are you using and what ramp angles?
    Also what damper rate did you try on the low speed bump?
    I am convinced with a decent set of wets i would have been alot better off.


    Originally posted by diesel des
    I second the no gasket at all trick. Be careful of exhaust paste as I saw it destroy a turbine wheel.

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    Originally posted by speeding-g60
    I never use gasket. Just a thin coat of high heat silicone. I also use all-steel locknuts..... thru bolted.

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    Originally posted by martinws
    Looking good. I like the look of the top mounts on the 80, any more pics/info?

    I have thought about machining turbine flange for a copper wire ring instead of gasket, not sure if that would work or not.
    Custom made weld in plates from DMD and the adjustable mounts are from a BMW, the tube is 40mm T45 and its about as far back as you can go before you hit the wheel on the arch

    Originally posted by Error404
    Shouldn't need any gasket or sealing if you can mill the flanges
    Aerotight nuts?

    Will you get another diff set or change the setup to work in all conditions ?
    I dont think thats a option i am going to get Johnny at Racing transmitions to check the ramp angles and preloads. Its a shame changing the diff between wet and dry but it might be that way.

    Originally posted by speeding-g60
    i use this type. notice its squeezed a little, no nylock nylon to melt. those ones are also good.

    So looks like i get the faces decked and run no gasket then chaps

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  • Error404
    replied
    Ah cool, OEM ones are squashed like that too.
    I've not seen them on the aftermarket, what are they called mate?

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  • speeding-g60
    replied
    i use this type. notice its squeezed a little, no nylock nylon to melt. those ones are also good.

    Leave a comment:


  • Error404
    replied
    Shouldn't need any gasket or sealing if you can mill the flanges
    Aerotight nuts?

    Will you get another diff set or change the setup to work in all conditions ?

    Leave a comment:


  • martinws
    replied
    Looking good. I like the look of the top mounts on the 80, any more pics/info?

    I have thought about machining turbine flange for a copper wire ring instead of gasket, not sure if that would work or not.

    Leave a comment:


  • speeding-g60
    replied
    I never use gasket. Just a thin coat of high heat silicone. I also use all-steel locknuts..... thru bolted.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

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