Acq 10vt - oldschool turbo power

[Takumi]

Yo,

was reading forum here quite a lot, thought i will share my experiment/project too...still it's 'in progress'

SPECS:

-MC2 engine;
-034 camshaft;
-VEMS ecu;
-HX35/kkk26 #6 turbo hibrid;
-custom header;
-3inch full intake/exhaust system;
-and other bits.

450hp/650NM

When i bought it... 2.3E 10v quattro.




Began with underneath/susspension








Bought and assembled ecu...





In winter studied head porting/assembling...










Back to susspension...

convesion 4x108 -> 5x112 ARP studs




Put PowerFlex bushes...



Rear brakes upgraded to 280mm (g60)





Atm 01A gearbox...




Repainted engine bay





kkk24 vs HX35/kkk26




Brembo 323mm front brake upgrade




Upgraded fuel lines from summitracing









Fuel rail with 880cc injectors finished




Custome made ingnition





Fully rebuild bottom end with stock parts...




3B pp + clutchnet ceramic clutch disc



On it's wheels



Upgraded MBC to 7A




Some bits



Inconel material for header






Not much room left







Putting in ecu wiring...



Some view appears



Head coolant mod



Battery relocation






Wiring



FMIC installation





3inch SS piping - heavy





First drive!

LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWwlcA0t0RQ

Finishing interior






3inch SS custom made muffler




Exhaust - wanted to make it as silent as possible...and managed - very nice sound!




First 'boost' try - franky look




Almost finished




Custom coilovers made...



Afer some boost test, my new Erling head bolts failed and got blowby to coolant system...



Meanwhile made heatshield




Bought ARP head studs to hold desired boost





There was dyno day, so took it to check what it's all about! Had some issues with boost creep before

dyno (used 30mm audi WG), so tried to port it to 34mm, but have a little overbored, so the valve

didn't hold and got this 'broken exhaust' sound + my spool took from 3k rpm to 4k rpm now ... still

there was no time and i dyno'd it. All mapping was done same day going to dyno, so it's far from fine

Atm redline is 6,5k rpm ( not sure why dyno measured only till 6k ) - plans are 7k rpm.

LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3RcY...layer_embedded





Now have ported another one, but this time success! Got valve lift ~3mm more and it's bored to 34mm +

ported inside. Havent tried it yet, but hope it'll fix my boost creep.





that's it - 2y build story in few hours ... no will start updating constantly here.

Any comments about stock MC bottom end limits? What i'm worried are rod studs - should have upgraded it to ARP ...

thanks,
T.

[K Simmonds]

Nice project, I'd have thought uprated con rods along with ARP studs would be a good idea with the size of that turbo. I've got an MC2 engine sat waiting to go in a B2 90 quattro so I'll be interested to see how you get on with this.

[djh]

very nice work there

[Takumi]

don't think rods are weak...just afraid of rod studs. If changing only them, is it needed to get rods to machine shop for checking roundness? Have read some threads, that when torqued, crank doesnt spin

[Twenny Benson]

I think you'll bend the rods before those bolts let go, if that motor see's any significant knock those rods are dead! Anyway, cracking job on the build, well done.

[donce]

433 whp or chp?

[driftin jo]

MC rods are very strong , they are heavy and not suited to very high rpm but you can load them up with torque with boost well past what would bend ABY rods, as long as you don't try and over rev them they will not let go.

[driftin jo]

I think you'll bend the rods before those bolts let go, if that motor see's any significant knock those rods are dead! Anyway, cracking job on the build, well done.

Couldn't be more wrong , I had an MC2 years ago knocking its head off with boost with a to4 and it
just kept going. The MC rods are very strong, not like puny 20v rods at all.

[Takumi]

433 whp or chp?

as what in video can be seen - HT say it's whp, still i think it's crank hp.
So 600NM+ for these rods should be ok then? As per my plan i would like to hit 2bar boost, to get hx35 working in it's full efficiency...

[Twenny Benson]

Fair do's, I stand corrected. Still seem's like a risky manouver to me though considering what they cost these days.

[Bram]

Very nice project you have there. 10vt with some serious power must sound good.

[Jamo]

Fair do's, I stand corrected. Still seem's like a risky manouver to me though considering what they cost these days.

If it ain't broke and all that. They are stronger rods and will take the 600 nm so why change

[Billman]

Very nice build! Looking forward for updates.

[quattro84]

Nice project.
Those stretched headbolts show why going to high tensile strength bolts like ARP's is not an option but a must have when running higher boost.

[prj]

as what in video can be seen - HT say it's whp, still i think it's crank hp.
So 600NM+ for these rods should be ok then? As per my plan i would like to hit 2bar boost, to get hx35 working in it's full efficiency...

I routinely map 20vt to 600nm on stock rods. Never bent any of them yet.
I think you can easily go to over 700nm with the MC rods, just don't rev the engine too much and don't knock (which is hard since VEMS does not have good knock control, so keep your timing SAFE). I think 6500 revlimit will be good for this car, once you fix the slow spool issue.

K26 #6 will run out of steam anyway over 6300 rpm's, so just run more boost early on, and get a nice powerband from about 3700 to 6200, and you will have a very driveable car.

Good luck with your project.

P.S. I also think that it is 433 chp, HX35 does not usually do 400+ whp on pump gas with small housing.