B3 Audi 80 16V Sport (1.8 Turbo) - loads of pics

[1781cc]

I havent had this car for several years, my photo bucket was nearly full, so I deleted them.

Were you after something specific?

[Gigi]

Actually yes, i am interested in engine mounts and hatnesses...

[1781cc]

drop me a PM with your email and I will see about sending them all over via wetransfer at some point over the weekend

[Gigi]

I sent you PM, no rush Tnx

[Xtremer]

engine and interior bits...

Ok peeps, been a while since I updated this with some solid progress, but here goes:

Been having issues with the idle and general running, with continual faults in VCDS flagging up for the throttle body - as some have recommended on here, I tried to run an adaptation but it just hasn't worked... I think the throttle body itself is on its way out, but I have another one coming in the post so should know for definite on friday!

In the meantime, I cleaned the current one and took the battery off overnight to reset everything... the throttle was disgusting!






I've just been outside and done a TBA which appears to have worked, or so VCDS says - I dont trust it, but have to go to Gaydon for work this evening/tomorrow so a good run will flag anything up.

Anyway, the inlet has been bugging me for a while so I gave it some thought and modified the inlet hose to the MAF, shortening the pipe by about 3 inches and jubilee clipping it in place - this has given me more room to reposition the CAI kit and run a feed down into the Kamei front eyelet. I know this solution isn't a long term and I have a silicone replacement ready to go when I swap the turbo over.

That, coupled to the new rocker cover and a few other elements getting reworked has led to a much cleaner and tider engine bay... :ihih:


Now... onto the interior... remember these?



Yup, B5 S4 split fold rear leathers - the ones I tried to fit before and had issues with using the donor vehicle clamps. The main issue being that when using those clamps to retain the split/fold functionality, it makes the seats 1.5cm too wide for the space and the wheel arches force the seats forward - I got round this by discarding the lower seat clamps and modifying some of the existing components...

Step 1: Remove the old seats

Step 2: Cable tie the new seats into the vacated holes from the old seats - they are offset - longer term I will be making some smaller Z brackets to fix this permanently, but for now they are secure.





Step 3: Unbolt and move the petrol tank back to allow access to the firewall and drill safely without perforating it!




Step 4: remove the gravity filter off the rubber holder (harder than it looks)


Step 5: unscrew the feeder pipe retainer, remove the 'O' ring from the rubber seal and push it through into the car



Step 5: line up and drill some holes in the firewall where you want the rear seat central holder to go - measure it right so the top of the seats sit flush with the carpeted parcel shelf - I used cable ties to check it first then switched to bolting it in once it had been tested to work in the right place. At this point I have to admit that I can't remember if I used the holder from the Passat I broke or the S4 - they look quite different, but this one sits lower - if you are thinking of doing this drop me a line and show me what you have, ill cross reference it.




Step 6: Remove the back cover for the ski bag as it bulges out and doesnt sit on the firewall flush


Step 7: The seats should now fold up onto the firewall and rest flush with the top of the
parcel shelf (if you have done Step 5 right )

The bolsters will need the bottom retaining clips cutting off as there is no recess in the wheel arch for them to sit in. I tried to find another way of doing it but to no avail. I also had to fold down the top tabs because the firewall is blocking it from sitting flush. I will look into cutting smaller slits into the firewall when I get my grinder back. These bolters really sit flush and are difficult to move because of the side pressure from the seats into the wheel arches/pillar so if I dont get round to it, no biggie - they certainly wont fall out.



Step 8: drill some small pilot holes through the top of the rear seats and put some washers on them. The rear of the seats is either hard plastic or wood, but certainly not metal - I used metal screws anyway because they were a lot fatter than the wood ones I had and have a tighter thread. Make sure you get someone to push the seats onto the firewall while you do this otherwise they move and you will have secured them in the wrong place :wall:



Step 9: Step back and admire your handiwork!

Do you still have the pictures from this photobucket album? I want to do a interior swap in a b4 and thought i might get some inspiration