Sidricks Audi Coupe S2 3B

[sidrick]

Decent weather here again so took the opportunity to get the new alternator in and plug the coolant hoses in to complete the aux rad delete.

I decided I'd do away with my usual tool kit:



For something more subtle for this job. I know, I know, Tuborg...



Anyway, what a difference that ratchet spanner made. My arms still look like I've gone 10 rounds with a tiger though, haha.



Plugged the top hose (main rad to aux rad) at its full length so I could test everything. I'll trim it shortly:



Looking good, except that horrible alarm!



That'll do me



Gents, as per every post, I have more questions.

I have 3 wires going to the alternator. Thick red, thin red and thin blue. Both old and new alternators have identical places for thick an thin reds.
Old alternator had thin blue going to the casing.
New alternator says thin blue goes to the 'aux' connection on the new alternator. There's no instructions to say what this 'aux' output does.

Since replacing the alternator, it's starting and charging fine, by the looks of things, but the battery light is on. Should I take the thin blue and attach it to the casing instead?

[sidrick]

Big day for the ol' shed. It's runs like a bag of pish and my mechanic friend said that the cam sensor fault and the poor running might indicate the timing being out, hence we'll strip it and time it and take it from there.

This would be it's home for the day, beside my friends 635csi, lush!


Strip some **** off:




When I bought it the seller said it had a new water pump just 6 month earlier..... haha:


Naked:


Quickly back together (the timing was a tooth out on the crank pulley). Seen with the special tool 2084 kindly loaned by Spink on the s2forum:


The old crank bolt. Someone had taken chunks out of it to get it off, only to use it again. Some people.....


The Beast (as it was christened) used to get 450nm on the crank bolt! I stood well back!


This might explain the N75 fault code and the lack of power :\ Completely unplugged.


Managed to ditch some air-con *****. Anyone needing anything?




On the home straight. You'll see from the amount of photos I've taken that my friend did ALL the work Legend.


The alternator I fitted last month. Removed and refitted with the correct cables to terminal (facepalm). Battery light no longer always-on:


All back together (I screwed on the fog lights myself) and finished off with an oil and brake fluid change:


Totally different car. It's got the 5-cylinder roar that was missing before and the power is superb now. We're not convinced the ignition timing is spot on as there's an occasional misfire, but it's 10 times better than it was.

[rynaqui]

Good to see everything is moving along and the car is on it's way to being as it should.

[targus]

when you removed the aircon did you leave the bracket? if not be careful as there is a bolt that if removed can let oil come out of it if its missing.

[sidrick]

when you removed the aircon did you leave the bracket? if not be careful as there is a bolt that if removed can let oil come out of it if its missing.

Left the bracket

[Michael S2]

Great to hear you have it running better. I'm new to these cars so threads like this really help with future jobs. Oil change is my first job which should be easy enough... i hope.

[quattrostyle]

Good job.

As for the torque on the crank bolt I thought 450Nm was meant for tightening without the special locking tool and 350Nm with the tool on the pulley?

[andy10v]

Good job.

As for the torque on the crank bolt I thought 450Nm was meant for tightening without the special locking tool and 350Nm with the tool on the pulley?

Is that not referring to use of the torque multiplier? The lock tool should have no affect on torque.

[andy10v]

Good work, aircon out frees up some space, and if you are in the rad area you can whip the aircon bit off their as well.

That should make some difference now you should have more than wastegate pressure. Did you check the dizzy timing?

[sidrick]

Good work, aircon out frees up some space, and if you are in the rad area you can whip the aircon bit off their as well.

That should make some difference now you should have more than wastegate pressure. Did you check the dizzy timing?

It was also my understanding that the 350nm was with the torque multiplier, and 450nm without

Yeah, space and weight. That compressor weighs a tonne! I'll be removing the air con rad and pipes the next day we get good weather up here. 2014 probably

We never checked the dizzy timing. I understand where the rotor arm is meant to point when the other timing marks match up, but I don't know how to adjust it if it's out. Any info greatly appreciated

[martinjs]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35268

[quattrostyle]

What does a torque multiplier look like, enlighten me please

[Drummer87]

It's a cool piece of kit. Handy to take lorry nuts off when big air tools can't

[andy10v]

What does a torque multiplier look like, enlighten me please

The bottom tool



Just an extension, it must all be in a straight line AFAIK.



Nothing to do with the timing belt tool but you also get torque multupliers like this

[quattrostyle]

Ah okay, never seen such a thing. And never had problems tightening the crank bolt either