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fuel pump was ful of rust, now we will clean that and see what hapens
That definately won't help and will need sorting asap. Should also be a pre filter from the tank to pump that gets clogged. Do you know if anyone's checked the fuel in the tank and if it still comes out looking ok and not full of rust etc?
That definately won't help and will need sorting asap. Should also be a pre filter from the tank to pump that gets clogged. Do you know if anyone's checked the fuel in the tank and if it still comes out looking ok and not full of rust etc?
i drained the fuel tank, and will remove it from the car and wash it.
Check your timing marks are aligned, the "0" stamped on flywheel in bell housing window should be half visible when the rotor arm mark is level with disi mark.
i dont have an 0 marked there but just an I, maybe the flywheel was changed?
I bet its the plunger in middle of the fuel distributor head. They always stick after along lay up. Carb cleaner it once apart.
If it is this the oil will be full of fuel.
HTH
yes there was fuel in the oil, we drained it and used new oil before anything else.
we will perform the diagnosis procedure this weekend.
tnx everyone!
RS200: if everything fails than yes, getting rid of the k-jet will be the next mission, but starting it where everybody else failed is a challenge we want to face
when the fuel pump on my 90q was clogged up with crap it also ran for a few seconds then died, about 10 times. the same as an immobiliser problem on a newer car.. new pump solved my issues.
When the fuel pump is replaced, obviously replace the fuel filter, blow the fuel lines through from the tank, when you have it out cleaning it, up to the metering head.
My recollection with fuel metering distributor is that there was pre delivery inspection" gauze insert to act as a "filter" to catch any debris in the fuel system before it gets to the fine tolerances of the metering head. It may be that this gauze insert was never taken out? Slim chance but just to check everything.
Also as GT500 says check the metering head, or swop in a borrowed working metering head to benchmark yours, same with the injectors, also maybe buy five rubber seals for the injectors. They're inexpensive.
If it is K-Jetronic like an Mk 1 8v Golf GTI, you should also check the small rectangular "box" that controls the fuel pressure for the car. As well as the small circular unit that has a two wire electrical plug on it and a air hose on the other side that conrols the "choke" function of the K-Jetronic. Sorry I don't recall the proper names or have photos of the parts I am referring to.
If all that fails then you'll need to start on all of the electrics that relate to the K-Jetronic.
Not sure of this, but maybe the UK based Mk 1 Golf owners club web site has some good info about problem solving and testing of K-Jetronic.
People wire cold start inj to throttle switch on na k jets for more fuel at WOT, can't speak for 10vt ! Pop it off and see what it's doing, could be stuck open with rust being present and it only being used for initial startup
1991 S2 3B Coupe, KW v1, solid sub frames, poly bushed, chipped, about 260 ish
The cold start injector will not prevent cold starting... In the UK the cars tend to run better with it disconnected, this prevents flooding at our generally 'mediocre ' temperatures... It needs 'proper' cold (eg - freezing-to-death) before the cold start injector allows the car to 'fire' quicker.
85 WR Urquattro, 85 20vT International liveried RallyRep
93 MTMS2 Avant
The cold start injector will not prevent cold starting... In the UK the cars tend to run better with it disconnected, as it prevents flooding at our generally 'mediocre ' temperatures... It needs 'proper' cold (eg - freezing-to-death) before the cold start injector allows the car to 'fire' quicker.
Fair play, it was flooding I meant, with the possibility of the injector being the culprit, still worth a looksie as its easy . Good info aswell
1991 S2 3B Coupe, KW v1, solid sub frames, poly bushed, chipped, about 260 ish
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