any luck?
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I sourced another ECU here on the forum, and both are at Dmitri. Hope it's an easy fix on the fried ECU, but anyhow I'll have the other one modded for the RS4 MAF so I can carry a spare. And also I'd like to have a not so lively map on the one which leaves as a spare if thats the case, so taking it to the yearly MOT not would be such close to nervous breakdown as it has been
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I've wanted to try running this car with only the downpipe connected for a while, so I took the exhaust system off it and took it for a spin. Enjoy the sound;
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AFR too lean on last pull :/ I mapped it a whole point richer.
Although if you don't have the exhaust it could be showing completely wrong due to air getting to the lambda probe.Comment
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Would it make any difference with temperature being around +5C and damp instead of +20-25C when you mapped the car?
I've noted the intake manifold is really cool all the time now compared to when touching it in the summer it's pretty warm.
There is definatly something there. Forgot that when I did the last 2nd gear pull, got into 3rd it missfired some and I lifted the throttle. Was running lean around 16.0ish AFR for a moment and after that back to normal.
Today I took it out to wash it with the pressurewasher and when I started it again it misfired some on idle and when the lambda gauge came on it was at 16.0ish AFR again to go down to normal around 14.7.
Need to pressure test it tomorrow for starters.Last edited by Laaf; 27 October 2013, 13:13.Comment
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No, it won't matter on IAT, as the MAF is there to compensate for that.
Misfire and then showing lean is normal, any misfire will show up lean, because a lambda sensor measures oxygen content and if no fuel is burned then the oxygen is just dumped into the exhaust, thus showing lean...
Check WOT, from memory should be around 12 afr there, but not 13 as it is now.Comment
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Did a pressure test today and found a couple small boost leaks, one at a boost hose which was cured by tightening the hose clamp further. One was at an injector, might also be the injector socket, but I hope that's not the case. Another was found at the throttle body axle, stops leaking when wiggling it some. And final most irritating one is that when reaching 1 bar and going over the N75 starts to leak boost over to the side which is connected to atmosphere.
Need to cure these and see where I'm at after that.Comment
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To the original problem, yes. But it's irritating that even more comes to light when having one problem to fix
I would like to get it through the MOT before putting it away for winter. The MOT period starts now on friday 1.11 so I think of having it checked maybe next week. Then it will be put away waiting for next summer. Ain't going to touch the engine this winter as I want it running as soon as possible after the tarmac has gone dry in spring
Going to fix some rust on it and do a color swap as it needs painting anyway when adressing the rust.Comment
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As I cracked the old block last winter having the coolant dripping a little all the time I finally got myself a replacement one. I found one in Sweden, so I took the ferry and picked it up late november. On the same trip a friend bought a car in the same city, a Mercedes-Benz C220 Kompressor as a everyday car.
I had actually found another block in eastern Finland too, but the guy sold it a couple days before I had planned go pick it up. But this trip to Sweden worked out a bit cheaper than going all the way to Varkaus.
So today I cleaned it trying the hot-water pressure cleaner my dad bought earlier in the autumn, and it worked really well getting rid of all the crud and loose paint on the block.
It needs a rebore, but that's not any problem as I run 81,5 mm pistons already. But I'll just remove the rust now and paint it and leave it as it is until I take the other engine apart. I thought that I'll just drive it next summer, saving the build to next winter.
The car itself is at a friend who is doing bodywork. Taking care of the rust and repainting it, in another colour. The sills were pretty badly rusted, but luckily enough replacement sills were able to order from Klokkerholm. But there is a couple of other nasty spots too which need attention.Comment
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Well well. Not much happening here really from my side. As I told earlier, the car is at my friends bodyshop getting some rust attended and a small change in colour. So he called me the other day and said he had testpainted one of the front wings and he wanted me to come take a look to decide to keep going on with the colour.
I can pretty much say I'm very pleased with the colour it's going to get, Daytona grey.
Then rustwise he told me it's in alot better shape than it looked without digging to deep into it. But I had bought new sills for it so they get swapped out as they were the worst places. Otherwise it's pretty decent, it has had a repaint earlier on and it has got some small dents here and there which the old paint pretty much hid as it is a very forgiving colour.
It would look really nice with proper BBS RS rims and the Daytona grey, need to source some
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nice colour!
btw: where did you get the sills? I might need them for my 80q somewhere in the near future as well...Comment
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I just checked the Klokkerholm catalouge and was surprised to find any! I sent an email to a friend who works at a auto parts store and he checked if they were available and they were. I ordered both in case they are needed.
The Klokkerholm part numbers are: 0009011 and 0009012. Both numbers are listed under 80 Quattro too.Comment
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thanks!
(the sills are the same for all 4doors)
btw: they even have the rear lights and other parts I thought were NLA
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How easy was it,to replace your sills?What's the precedure and have you got any photos of it being done?
Never replaced sills before,so don't know what to expect?Any advice or tips,would be welcome.Comment
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