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I dont think that you have booster issue, because when booster does not work brake pedal gets hard and there is no need to pump in this situation, just press hard an prey .
Is your pedal soft or hard when you hit it the first time?
Thanks BosnianS2, after looking around more, it appears i have 'lazy' caliper in the back that is partially seized that might be giving me all the issues.
I drove the car a few times to work and such over the last month. I have been trying to figure out some small problems, which were keeping me from wanting to drive the car daily.
First: My windows weren't working, Utah is already in the 90s some days, and i haven't charged the AC system yet, so i got caught a couple days driving home in a 90 degree greenhouse with the windows stuck open.
Second: the temp gauge reads as if it were an 'A4' temp gauge, so operating temp is reading on my gauge as over heating, but is really just sitting at the operating temp but in a 'straight up and down style'. This was troubling just because i want accurate information, and it worries me to see the gauge not reading right.
Third: My wiring for the OBD plugs wasn't working properly. I wanted to be able to scan and log and see whats going on with the car. It was annoying because if i unhooked the ECU, the vagcom could connect to the climate control or abs systems just fine. as soon as the ecu was plugged in, i'd lose all communication. Frustrating.
I ticked away at these problems this week, probably 30-45 minutes a night, and can say that i think that all 3 of them are solved! Windows had a connection at the fuse box that had come off when i pulled out the fuse box and i didn't see it when i hooked everything back up. I picked up a new temp switch from an ABA engine that is supposed to give me proper read out to my gauge(big thanks to Lee and BikerJim for the advice). My schematic for the k-line was inaccurate so i had the wrong wire hooked up to my k-line and was shorting everything out. Did a wire trace and found the correct wire and everything is happy.
I also installed a new JHM Short shifter that i got for my birthday, and an Alpine head unit that matches the illumination in the car. I rewired the headunit so that it is all hooked up correctly, and now when i turn the stereo to 'radio' my antenna powers up and extends! Feeling like things are getting dialed in. I ordered a 'correct' radiator from Europe and it showed up, so hopefully if i can find an hour or two this weekend i'll get the new radiator in and get the AC system flushed and charged!
I've put about 1000 miles on the car so far, and now that i have all the wiring done and now the car is pulling hard and driving great, the pilot bearing took a big **** on me and i'm going to have to tear it apart... Oh joy.
Looking back, what are the major pitfalls while putting the 1.8t into the b4?
Yes, it is a new bearing.
Honestly, the wiring is the only real pitfall, only because there isn't an off the shelf solution to do it. Everything else is off the shelf. ADR Radiator, ADR engine mounts, bolts straight up to the 01a already. It is just the wiring that is the custom bit. Down pipe is also custom, but was a very simple and straight forward thing, i mocked it up with tape, took it to my friend and had it welded up, not too serious.
So a bit has happened. We were getting ready to move when the bearing went out so i had to park the car for a bit, and it sat for about 2 months or so till i actually had time to wrench on it again. Here is what I did in the last 2-3 weeks.
Sitting waiting:
Engine coming out again:
The reason it came out:
Quick repass on the wiring:
added an intercooler while it was out. My fabrication tools include an angle grinder and a drill, so be kind.
back together:
Some day i'll get a european rear bumper to clean up the back end...
the engine donor was an automatic. the bearing used is not a true solution, it is a make shift solution that didn't work. I'm doing something different this time. I intend on building up a proper manual block with a set of aftermarket rods i have already sourced. I'm the type who does things in phases. Getting it swapped and working was the first task, now that i have proved it works, I intend on taking it to the next level. The goal is 300awhp and 300awtq. We'll see what happens.
Did you grind enough off the snout of the crank? My thinking is that if you didn't remove enough metal when the box is bolted on to the engine you could have been crushing the bearing?? Might be totally off but I too run an auto crank with a bearing in my 90q and it's took a lot of abuse with no issue...
Did you grind enough off the snout of the crank? My thinking is that if you didn't remove enough metal when the box is bolted on to the engine you could have been crushing the bearing?? Might be totally off but I too run an auto crank with a bearing in my 90q and it's took a lot of abuse with no issue...
I didn't grind any off. Which is certainly the issue, i took measurements and my flywheel was thick enough to hold the bearing, and i thought the clearance was enough. It wasnt. Like i said, my goal is to swap in a new block with a MANUAL crank and a set of uprated rods i picked up already. I prefer getting the car running and being able to enjoy it a bit, i can build up a second engine in my garage that gets swapped in down the road and have minimal down time.
My solution this time was actually to remove the partial plug that was in the auto crank and i used a v6 pilot bearing which is the exact same outer diameter as the hole in the crank
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