My wannabe S6 Plus project

[macspring]

cool, but how will you make it fit inside the headlights?

Agreed, if you have photos that would be great.

Thanks.

[Petu]

I have some photos of a EVOX-R retrofit that my brother did about a year ago or even two. And EVOX-R is much bigger and he had some fitting issues but the 4TL-R is much more compact but about the same light output. I will probably spare my OEM Xenon lights and take one good pair of standard Halogen lights and mod them with the new projectors.

Here is the EVOX-R in C4 Halogen headlight, due to its big "belly" it was not possible to fit the OEM fog light projector. With the 4TL-R I am hoping to keep the original fog light for daytime driving. My brother has some LED thing built there but I don't fancy the LED things.
As you can see here that the 3" inch projector is much bigger that original but the light output is crazy. Lens diameter 79mm and the 4TL-R has 71mm which is about 2.8"(although the website tells it is 2.5"....muricans). That should require less cutting and more stock look.



EVOX-R measurements
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...to-evox-r.html
4TL-R measurements
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...oto-4tl-r.html

[macspring]

Sorry to appear to be nagging, but do you have a photo without the headlight glass fitted ?

Thanks either way.

[radi_nrj]

Thanks slacky!

Wow radi_nrj that ECU looks awesome. How does it pull? Do you have any comparison with other chips?
It MUST be from Roland himself.

It pulls up to 3K and than it dies. I've dynoed it and it did 140hp and 345N/m @ the flywheel with cats removed and EGR blanked. I asked MTM for more details and and they replied that target horse power is 160hp and the torque is 315N/m with cats and EGR working (they could not provide more details because they do not support this engine for years). I have issues at the top end probably due to weak westgate spring. However I'll put a K16 based hybrid turbo on it and will check then. I have set of very aggressive chips but would install them because I do not want to cut the MTM sticker.

As for the headlights I have 4300K on the low beam and 3000K on the fog lights both with good quality Chinese slim AC ballasts. However the the headlights are in very poor condition (one is the original Hella and the other one is some no name brand). I plan to buy a set of second hand Hella headlights, disassemble them and send all the reflectors for recoating and than put everything back together. We have a factory in Bulgaria that makes the reflectors better than new. At the end I should have a set of better than new Hellas for the fraction of the cost.

BTW here is the car I got the front struts from, notice the OEM xenon? It was sold along with the headlights before the car was even unloaded from the truck.

The car was sitting for 10 years somewhere in Germany and those lights fired right up

[M_GORDON]

I want see this future mod!

PS. leave the Xenon and put Halogen lamps?
I think a xenon lamp on a old reflector will be better than a Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited or Philips Xtrem halogen bulb on a perfect lense and reflector
Remember our lenses are good qualitys

[radi_nrj]

BTW I've seen quite a lot melted headlight switches on C4 and B5. If you are not going to install relays the 35W xenon is better option.

[macspring]

Just reading through the two links for the HID projectors headlight 'inserts' and I notice that your brother's bigger one says it's for LHD only, and the smaller one you have in mind doesn't state anthing as regards Left or Right drive ?

After taking apart my headlights over the yesterday to clean the reflectors, the plastic chrome 'souround', and the glass magnifying lenses I feel they now work a bit better, but would also now be keen / confident to see if other HID lights in the breakers yard can be made to fit a set of none S spec C4 headlights.

If you're taking apart your headlights to clean them, make sure you have a decent lint free cloth to clean them / 'buff' them before reassembly.

[macspring]

Not wanting to hijack this thread, but to help to keep it up near the top of the New Posts 'league', I now see from looking at my headlights in the day light after two days post refurbishing them by cleaning every single bit of them - ( it is possible to take them right back to their constituent parts, including the 'removal' of the two 'magnifying' glasses - it really makes them look brand new, which is pretty cool for a no money / just time investment.

Even the main beam seems brighter while still using the same halogen 55w bulbs.

Having said that one would be well advised to work out how they come apart and practice on an old spare broken headlight beforehand as it saves grief / consternation / breakages.

End of 'hijack'.

[Petu]

macspring You are not nagging. I do not have any pictures of the inside of this build, yet. Maybe I can get some from my brother or he will post here. If not then I will make sure to grab some pics of my build. About LHD and RHD I do not know about it. I assume the "Muricans" are selling LHD stuff. For RHD infromation should try to e-mail them.
Yes, cleaning headlights is a good fix I have already done. Looking to history I would stage my headlight improvements like this.
Stage 1 - cleaning OEM halogen projectors, lenses, glasses etc.
Stage 2 - fitting OEM xenon projector
Stage 3 - fitting new and bigger bixenon projector to replace the old and burnt projector, maybe I will fit new headlight glasses too. Shipping in process
radi_nrj Thanks for the information about MTM chip. OEM Xenon looks cool yea, but not very reliable.

I'm using something more simple and reliable.

[AndyP]

Not wanting to hijack this thread, but to help to keep it up near the top of the New Posts 'league', I now see from looking at my headlights in the day light after two days post refurbishing them by cleaning every single bit of them - ( it is possible to take them right back to their constituant parts, including the 'removal' of the two 'magnifying' glasses - it really makes them look brand new, which is pretty cool for a no money / just time investment.

Even the main beam seems brighter while still using the same halogen 55w bulbs.

Having said that one would be well advised to work out how they come apart and practice on an old spare broken headlight beforehand as it saves grief / consternation / breakages.

End of 'hijack'.

I've just put new glass on mine and it made a big difference, the old ones were covered in tiny stone chips that were scattering the light. The light is so much more 'crisp' with the new glass. Still quite reasonably priced too, get them while you can!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1718464204...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I also put some paint protection film on the glass to stop them getting chipped again

Pictures here:-
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...737#post926737

[Petu]

S6 strutbar

Finally I had the time to fit the strutbar to my car. I was thinking it would be more of a visual improvement but I really think I can feel the difference while cornering and the steering response feels better too. If anyone can approve that would be great. Maybe it's in my head lol.

And the reason why it took so long to fit it is that I hate when the strutbar is added but the bonnet/hood does not open up as it should because the gas shock is stopped by the strutbar mount. So I installed an OEM S6 bracket to change the location of lower mount of the shock. But I did not want to weld it to the car I made a little customisation.

The bracket is held by the bolt where the shock usually is fitted and supported by the part of body that is sticking out of the body. To make it nicer I fitted a original plastic nut too. I am happy that I did not have to weld the body of the car.















Sorry for the messy engine bay.

Oh and Merry Christmas!

[radi_nrj]

Great work, the donor car from which I got the struts and brakes still had the strut bar on it and I still consider to buy it (have some other more urgent expences though). Thanks to you I will save myself the hustle with the lower bracket. I would have got the bar assembly and the reservoir only and find that the bonnet will not open fully, than run back to the beakers yard for the bracket

[Giacomo]

I'm fitting an aftermarket strut bar made by Ultra Racing. It's on ebay for 1xx € but you can buy it directly on their website for much less. They say it's for V6 C4s, but I've bought it anyway as I think you can fit it on any A6.
The only issue seem to be the brake pump tank which needs to be replaced with the S6 one.
Job is not finish yet, so no pics. Will upload when ready.
It's fit bolting on the top of the struts, you don't need to weld the S6's struts brackets, missing on A6s.

[Petu]

My clutch experience

radi_nrj that's why the forum is so good.
Giacomo keep us posted about that aftermarket strutbar, never seen before. A picture of it would be good.

Since I have been getting some questions about my clutch set I wanted to share this information with everybody to make it easier than it was for me.

1. My car came with stock 2-mass flywheel - super smooth to drive and you can go around with any gear as long as it does not stall. (granpa clutch set)

2. Next I used was Audi 100 AAS (2.4d N/A) flywheel, 2.5TDI AEL clutch disc and 100 2.5TDI pressure plate which after later research was with 4.2 V8 pressure plate code - interesting. This set I do not recommend to anyone because the 2.5TDI AEL clutch disc does not take much of the vibration and you get quite a lot of vibration. No comfort and not good for the car. Bad under 1400 RPM.
That's a AEL clutch disc for dual mass flywheel.


3. The set I have been using and am using to this day is Audi 100 AAT 2.5TDI flywheel(its a little lighter than AAS) with 100 2.5TDI AAT clutch disc and the exact same pressure plate that I used before since it was in very good condition.
This set is good and you can drive easily under 1400 RPM without vibrations. In some range of 1600-1800 RPM while accelerating it does make a little vibration but I am okay with that since I have more power to use and the 2-mass flywheel would not handle it anyways and I do not want to go down on power.

That's a AAT clutch disc for one mass flywheel.


So if I were to change my clutch what would I buy for the new set?

It is interesting that the 4.2 V8 clutch pressure plate is same as on 2.5 TDI 100 and the clutch disc also looks very similar. A lot of people have been fitting whole sets of 4.2 AEC sets in the Russian forums and also one of my friend too and he has not been complaining about vibrations(I still need to test it for myself to get the best comparison)
So the answer would be that I would buy 4.2 V8 clutch set but you can also go with 2.5TDI AAT disc and AEC pressure plate. Depends which is cheaper.


LUK PN: 624 1420 00
Sachs PN: 3000 951 053(note: it seems to be cheaper to buy sachs parts seperately)

Also I found my friends picture of the AEC clutch set packaged by LUK although labelled as SACHS.

This one is SACHS.



The last pictures are made by sector and mclaren411 from Estonian Audi club.

The three last pictures are all V8 clutch sets and I have noticed that some of them have smaller springs near the spline also and some of them do not. I am not sure if it would make the ride even better or is it a weak part for TDI. If somebody knows please give your opinion. I hope this helps.

[Acki]

Do you have some more information on the "Quattro" rear window? Up to your pictures it seems to be a legend that you can find c4 Avant Quattro signed rear windows.
Thanks in advance! And cool project anyways!