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Changed Voltage Regulator but still low voltage?? 15 volt regulator
The 15volt combats volatage drop accross the wiring. You don't actually get 15 volts
You'll see a steady 14.7 instead of 13.7-14.1
And no bulbs wont blow etc what kind of old wives tale is that?
If the mod is not for you I understand but don't say it will blow bulbs
Jamo, most of the old wives tail would appear to be in the benefit of having a 15 volt regulator.
You're right, the mod isn't for me but it is a matter of fact that incandescent bulbs, i.e. the ones used in cars before LEDs came along are very voltage sensitive along the lines I said due to the physical properties of the tungstan filament they use. The higher the voltage you run them at, the shorter their life will be.
Can anyone confirm the above is the only option for an ABY for the voltage Regulator? Mine has definately gone now so i need to replace it. Where is the best place to ge tit from?
3'' Longlife Exhaust, Koni Adjustables, H&R Springs, Full RS2 Setup with Mr Nugents RS2 Chips (just need the RS2 Airbox)
Can anyone confirm the above is the only option for an ABY for the voltage Regulator? Mine has definately gone now so i need to replace it. Where is the best place to ge tit from?
About bulbs:
Light output is rated at 13.2v, while lifetime is rated at 14.0v.
Light output increases with the 3.5 power of the voltage ratio (applied voltage/rated voltage), but lifetime decreases to the inverse 12 power. Going above 14.0v at the bulb can thus dramatically decrease life expectancy for the bulbs.
Note that high output bulbs like Osram Nightbreakers have a rated lifetime of only 50% of a standard bulb.
In my own car, I've got 15v+ at the bulbs, so Nightbreakers would only last a few hours (BTDT). While it might seem counter productive to run so much voltage that I need to run a lower output bulb, it really isn't so. I get much more output out of a standard bulb at 15v than I would from a Nightbreaker at lower voltage. In addition, the bulbs that I use cost less than 2 quid a pop.
The result is HID like output with a road legal setup.
Looks exactly like the one I replaced on my old A6.
Just remember to make sure your alternator drive belt is tight too as many people make the mistake of not checking this !
Run your vehicle at idle and turn on full beam lights (and fogs if you have them), heater fan and rear windscreen heater and stick a multimeter across the battery contacts.
You should have a voltage there of over 12V. If not then try turning off all the above so that just the engine is running. If the voltage then rises up to 14v approx - your belt is slipping. This slipping is sometimes accompanied by a horrible squealing sound from the pulley.
The mechanical load on the alternator from the electrical current load of the devices switched on in the car will cause the belts to slip if loose.
Hi,
My alternator is making sound and voltage is 14v in idle. All lights and power recurses on and its 12v.
Few days now i have red light and 10v when i start the car. If i put sem revs the needle is on 14v.
I have a spare alternator to. Does someone know is BOSCH 034 903 016D alternator right to my car?
It looks like belt is tight..
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(just need the RS2 Airbox)
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