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Mark - have you got a source of the head polishing kit - I though I had a link for that sort of kit somnewhere but can't find it.
Doug,
Mihnea gave me this link to the porting kit Standard Abrasives porting guide and I got mine from Demon Tweeks in the red motorsport catalogue (page 227, 2004 edition).
i wasnt planning on changing the cam at first so took the cam off with the sprocket still attatched, so when i found out about the 7a being a good upgrade and had seen one at a dismantlers, just held cam in a vice (with soft jaws)
cant see the adjustable spanner method doing any harm, cams are ultra hard theres no way you can do any damage,
Originally posted by A6 AVANT I can see you have some broken exhaust manifold studs and cannot stress enough that they all need to be replaced as they will all be weak!
Chris - I don't have any broken head studs - actually all the nuts came off really easy - I wasn't expecting that. I have ordered a new set of studs anyway. I have thick washer between the nuts and exhaust manifold - Are these meant to be replaced?
Here is the list of parts I am replacing so far: :eek2:
RC gasket x1
Head gasket x2
Timing chain x1
Camshaft sprocket bolt x1
Woodruff key x1
Valve stem oil seal x20
Cambelt x1
Crankshaft bolt x1
Tensioner x1
Oil filter x1
O ring for head x1
Triangle gasket for water manifold x1
O ring for water manifold x3
Inlet manifold gasket x1
Turbo Gasket x1
Turbo oil gasket x1
Turbo oil gasket x1
Turbo O ring x1
Turbo O ring x1
Turbo nuts x4
Exhaust manifold gasket x1
Spark Plug lead x5
Spark plugs x5
Turbo to DP nut x3
Turbo to DP nut x3
Turbo to Dp gasket x1
Wastegate gasket x2
Nuts x3
Nuts x3
AC belt x1
PS belt x1
Alt belt x1
Stat x1
O ring x1
Front crankshaft oil sea x1
7A exhaust cam x1
URQ head stud washers x12
Turbo to manifold studs x4
Manifold to head nuts x16
Manifold stuts x16
Water pump x1
Fuel filter x1
Coolant x2
ARP Race Head Studs x12
How do the pros get bolts off if you can't get a driver to take them off (and after trying an impact driver as well - heads were shagged)?
I had to use a nut splitter and tap it round - used the screwdriver to stop damaging anything while tapping it. Those 3 bolts were the biggest PITA on getting the head off (I suppose it could have been a lot worse).
I had the same, used some phat molegrips and the feckers came undone. Bolts went straight in the bin and new ones were put in there place with loads of coppper grease so they dont stick again. So far so good, put im not planning on taking the engine apart for a while
sigpic
Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
Audi UR Quattro
Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm
Hehee. Same here! I managed to break one of the bolts and coudn't get the rest of it out of the head... Strangely only tight bolts were the three on the middle and single ones were easy to open.
And about the cam bolt. I used the old cam belt. Hard to explain how but it was on the pulley and then twisted over itself and then it holds like hell. It was kept still with a bar sticked through the rest of it keeping the bar against the cyl head. You probably didn't understand but atleast I tried
Originally posted by Doug_RS2 Yes - I agree it looks ***** - I think I will get the inlet polished up - I won't get any material taken off in case a substantial amount has already been taken off. I'll get new valve guides as well - Are thes something a head specialist is likely to have or do I have to get Audi ones?
Valve guides are the same as on VW KR engine (mk2 golf 16v). They should be easy to obtain using that info.
Note that replacing the guides means always that valves and valve seats have to be repositioned ie cut to match.
Doug, sorry about the manifiold studs, it looked like they had sheared off in the pic. with regard to the washers, if they look ok they should be fine but if they are damaged replace them. With regard to those pesky water pipe allen bolts, the ones I did came undone ok but I did have to clean the recess out first and then hammered my allen socket in to make sure of a good fit but the hammering in also shocks and loosens any corrosion on the threads.
A tip for all of you, if you round off an allen bolt get a torx socket slightly larger than the allen bolt hole and hammer that home, the bolt should then fly undone!
Looking at your list Doug you seem to have it pretty well covered. The only thing extra I had to do on the 3B was replace all the oil breather hoses (expensive!!) but if you are going to do it, do it whilst head is off as it makes life so much easier! Also replace rotor arm as that is also easier with unit off as it will be glued on!
All I can say is take your time and any probs ask us and we will try and help.
Good luck
Chris
A6 Avant Tdi 110 because as the fuel prices keep going up I am so happy to be getting 649.8 miles to a tank of diesel!! (£50)
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