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Car Broke down! :/ after full revs Any help /advice?

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  • #16
    oh ffss! ive bought an ODBC connector, I need to buy an adaptor now?

    This whole thing is deffo taking a lot longer than needed.
    Thank you for the reply.. mehhhhhhh... is it normal for an S2 to have lots of problems? they are getting old now.

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    • #17
      You can also extract the fault coder with a lightbulb

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      • #18
        http://www.s2central.com/blinkcodes.html

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        • #19
          Sounds remarkably like when my crank bolt was loose and the woodruff key on the lower timing pulley sheered off killing most of my valves. Compression test.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Thecrispynoodle View Post
            Sounds remarkably like when my crank bolt was loose and the woodruff key on the lower timing pulley sheered off killing most of my valves. Compression test.
            please no ..

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            • #21
              This happened to me yesterday in my shortened UR which has an ADU engine in it...………
              On the way home though and after a hard exit in 2nd from a roundabout, the engine cut out and I had to roll down to the bottom of the hill before parking safely. Fortunately I took the OBDII code reader with me having previously rewired the connectors so that I can now get live data. The only code I could pull was 'overcurrent'.
              The car would turn over but not start. I initially checked for loose boost hoses and having burnt my arm on the Lamda sensor I sat back in the car for a re-think. So, checking fuse 13 (Fuel pump) showed that it had blown. I then swapped this for fuse 17 (Heater/blower) and the car started and drove 100 meters or so before cutting out.
              This time the fuse had now blown, so I removed the fuel pump relay and plugged in the jumper wire which effectively bridges/links 12V's directly to the fuel pump. I could neither hear nor feel anything from the pump.
              After another ponder, I lifted the back seat and checked the connector and noticed that the green and yellow wire was tarnished from heat over the last 37 years and this is where it gets interesting. Both connectors/wires were attached, but the wiring felt so brittle. I can only presume that although there was a connection, it was impaired by the amount of carbon on the wires and effectively caused a bad connection, causing more amps to be drawn.


              I then looked around this fairly remote area and knocked on the door of the house which had loads of old Jags parked on the driveway and guess what, he was a mechanic of 50 years and had a wire stripper and some connector block. 5 minutes later I trimmed back 10mm either side of the wiring and made temporary repairs and the car fired straight up and the journey continued home.
              Reason for posting, well, check the wiring around the connector and make good before it lets you down.
              Last edited by steverrquattro; 7th May 2019, 19:09. Reason: Bad spelling.
              Steve

              1990 RR 20V
              1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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              • #22
                Just get it looked at before you start believing the doom mongers.

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                • #23
                  What have you found out?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by steverrquattro View Post
                    This happened to me yesterday in my shortened UR which has an ADU engine in it...………
                    On the way home though and after a hard exit in 2nd from a roundabout, the engine cut out and I had to roll down to the bottom of the hill before parking safely. Fortunately I took the OBDII code reader with me having previously rewired the connectors so that I can now get live data. The only code I could pull was 'overcurrent'.
                    The car would turn over but not start. I initially checked for loose boost hoses and having burnt my arm on the Lamda sensor I sat back in the car for a re-think. So, checking fuse 13 (Fuel pump) showed that it had blown. I then swapped this for fuse 17 (Heater/blower) and the car started and drove 100 meters or so before cutting out.
                    This time the fuse had now blown, so I removed the fuel pump relay and plugged in the jumper wire which effectively bridges/links 12V's directly to the fuel pump. I could neither hear nor feel anything from the pump.
                    After another ponder, I lifted the back seat and checked the connector and noticed that the green and yellow wire was tarnished from heat over the last 37 years and this is where it gets interesting. Both connectors/wires were attached, but the wiring felt so brittle. I can only presume that although there was a connection, it was impaired by the amount of carbon on the wires and effectively caused a bad connection, causing more amps to be drawn.


                    I then looked around this fairly remote area and knocked on the door of the house which had loads of old Jags parked on the driveway and guess what, he was a mechanic of 50 years and had a wire stripper and some connector block. 5 minutes later I trimmed back 10mm either side of the wiring and made temporary repairs and the car fired straight up and the journey continued home.
                    Reason for posting, well, check the wiring around the connector and make good before it lets you down.
                    Sounds interesting!!

                    For everyone else my 2x2 adaptor eventually arrived today so I can link to my OBD2 reader , so ill check the code today, whilst taking on board all of your ideas / suggestions and experiences.

                    Huge thank you guys, that is very selfess of you to help and reply and provide assistance and lknowledge through your experiences, I am truly grateful.

                    Will report soon, I have all stopped also as was trying to get it up and running for nurburgring trip end of month and it was consumming my life and I literally have no garage...working into the evenings, also a plus is that Audi tradition have eventualy contacted me and there is a way to obtain parts now through an audi dealer in the uk using audi tradition, Had to do some searching! but wowsers x

                    Thank you Audi Team Crew!!

                    (in other news I saw 2 giant Audi R8 race lorries driving down M1 last night .. they looked epic!!)

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                    • #25
                      Hey Guys!

                      So today / yesterday I discovered that fuses 24 and 25 had blown, (motor fuses and timing etc) I'm still not sure what caused this. The front left lights are still dead and making weird sounds when I turn on the ignition, but I did remember accidentally breaking off the holder for a few cables that lead to the front left lights. They were concerningly close to the alternator just dangling, could this have shorted the whole system?

                      Also when ignition is on I can hear water moving near the top of my radiator through the water pipes there, what is this???

                      water pump? but its surely not on without the engine?!

                      (Ps: ecu couldnt be checked as fuses power the ecu that went down).

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                      • #26
                        The aby has an electric water pump to circulate water on shutting down the engine so you could hear water circulating. It stops hot spots and heat soak into sensitive components.

                        Have you been able to check the belt / crank pulley condition / do compression test? Take spark plugs out (just to make it easier to turn as not fighting compression) and try putting socket on crank pulley and turning over by hand. With the plugs out you should be able to feel any resistance due to valves not being in the right places. If it won't turn over by hand or turns then suddenly stops, stop and think again.

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                        • #27
                          I assume you have checked the wiring you talk about?

                          We can't keep going just guessing, you do need to look at the car yourself as well.

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                          • #28
                            why not elimnate known faults while you are getting to the bottom of the problem, you never know - it might just work

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                            • #29
                              Fuse 24 is for engine bits like ISV and Fuse 25 is for the lambda. Do you mean Fuse 27 and 28?

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by twoqu View Post
                                Fuse 24 is for engine bits like ISV and Fuse 25 is for the lambda. Do you mean Fuse 27 and 28?
                                Its not completely accurate, but its the 2 fuses that are separate and contained within the motor cap, that also covers those fuses, they face you sideways compared to the other fuses. (facing a different direction). (positioned central in fuse box, but closest to the front of the car)

                                thx for advice other dudes!

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