Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Car Broke down! :/ after full revs Any help /advice?

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Car Broke down! :/ after full revs Any help /advice?

    Hey guys! hows you guys?
    Literally was opening up the car yesterday on the throttle and pushed her a little hard for a few miles, then at near maximum revs, (7000 ish) there was a boom and then instant loss of engine power and all the dials started going down - the engine oil light came on (red). I pulled over to a stop.

    It felt like I had just ran out of fuel or something had gone , or no spark.

    On side of road now and the engine turns over - so im getting power to it. I checked outside and my front left light had just died, (they are the upgraded round electric bulb ones, Im not sure what they are called? HID? I'm not sure, but mine is an ABY).

    So light was out but sidelights everything else good.

    Car had dropped no fluids, all belts still on so no sign of any damage, no sign of engine failure. So I'm now thinking I know these cars have safety features installed to cut the engine if there is a problem to protect it.
    Could I have had a relay or fuse blown? which could have caused the car to die like this?

    Or does anyone here know what it is?

    :/ Ive now been recovered to my address in welwyn garden city :/

    Huge thx in advance :/
    Attached Files

  • Chris5044
    replied
    Originally posted by Greg_S View Post
    How are you getting on with diagnosing the issues?
    Just got back from the Nurburgring trip this weekend and sorting out my life. Havent got round to looking at the s2 yet, just getting my daily, the golf top mounts done, with new tyres and front aligment doing atm.. will jump back onto the s2 when I can.. Thats the update so far. will try my best at looking at this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Greg_S
    replied
    How are you getting on with diagnosing the issues?

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris5044
    replied
    OMG!! im such a noob! DOH!! i was trying to prize that thing off! .. getting brain dead atm.. thank you guys!

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    You don’t have to remove the casing that’s glued into the car.
    The fusebox is clipped into it. Push the clips back and it will come out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris5044
    replied
    Has anyone ever taken the fusebox out? I've undone the nuts but its held down by some gummy material and a right bitch to get off.. its not budging! anyone any tips? or have I missed something?

    thx in advance x

    Leave a comment:


  • Greg_S
    replied
    Check the resistance on those pins, if it’s a short that is likely the issue to work on next

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris5044
    replied
    Originally posted by prj View Post
    If ECU is blowing fuse every time it's connected most likely the car has issues with the alternator and was overvolting the ECU.
    The ECU IIRC at 18V collapses a diode and forces ground and power together, to prevent further damage to itself.

    Measure the resistance on the ECU inputs between:
    PIN 18 and PIN 24
    PIN 27 and PIN 24

    If you read 0 ohm on any of those, then your alternator's voltage regulator is shot, causing an overvoltage and the ECU frying the diode in itself.
    The ECU then needs repair - the diode needs to be desoldered and replaced.

    If you have resistance between those pins and they are not shorted together, then at least that part of the ECU is intact.
    Hey thx !! very informative! though does this information still apply if its only blowing when I turn on the ignition.. not when its just plugged in...

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris5044
    replied
    Originally posted by prj View Post
    If ECU is blowing fuse every time it's connected most likely the car has issues with the alternator and was overvolting the ECU.
    The ECU IIRC at 18V collapses a diode and forces ground and power together, to prevent further damage to itself.

    Measure the resistance on the ECU inputs between:
    PIN 18 and PIN 24
    PIN 27 and PIN 24

    If you read 0 ohm on any of those, then your alternator's voltage regulator is shot, causing an overvoltage and the ECU frying the diode in itself.
    The ECU then needs repair - the diode needs to be desoldered and replaced.

    If you have resistance between those pins and they are not shorted together, then at least that part of the ECU is intact.
    Ah thank you!! will note this, it has had a new alternator and it seems like a beast and aftermarket one

    Leave a comment:


  • twoqu
    replied
    To OP,
    I 'll measure some ecu's to get the resistance values mentioned above. Obviously if yours is kaput its not much help, but it might help someone else out in the future!

    Leave a comment:


  • twoqu
    replied

    Dmitri,
    Is this diode the one between pin 18 and 19?
    Problem now seems to be the fuse blowing with ign on rather than just hoked up to Bat Voltage and blowing.

    Leave a comment:


  • prj
    replied
    If ECU is blowing fuse every time it's connected most likely the car has issues with the alternator and was overvolting the ECU.
    The ECU IIRC at 18V collapses a diode and forces ground and power together, to prevent further damage to itself.

    Measure the resistance on the ECU inputs between:
    PIN 18 and PIN 24
    PIN 27 and PIN 24

    If you read 0 ohm on any of those, then your alternator's voltage regulator is shot, causing an overvoltage and the ECU frying the diode in itself.
    The ECU then needs repair - the diode needs to be desoldered and replaced.

    If you have resistance between those pins and they are not shorted together, then at least that part of the ECU is intact.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris5044
    replied
    Originally posted by Greenm3 View Post
    Hello,

    It could be worth checking the bottom of the fuse box. I recently had a power failure and it was actually the blower motor had shorted and melted the fuse in the fuse box which then shorted others. All cleaned up now and a new fuse box with the fan not connected and it’s all good!
    When I first read your post I was concerned it was the woodruff key and the engine had spun up. I had this about 7 years ago. Was a painful experience.

    Good luck
    Thank you! will check asap. Thank you everyone for your help and contributions! This forum is awesome!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Greenm3
    replied
    Hello,

    It could be worth checking the bottom of the fuse box. I recently had a power failure and it was actually the blower motor had shorted and melted the fuse in the fuse box which then shorted others. All cleaned up now and a new fuse box with the fan not connected and it’s all good!
    When I first read your post I was concerned it was the woodruff key and the engine had spun up. I had this about 7 years ago. Was a painful experience.

    Good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris5044
    replied
    Ok so an update, A friend pointed out a similar fault to mine thats here on the forum :

    https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...use-27-blowing

    I'm having similar issues,

    So I followed what they have done and I have unplugged the MAF and tested, and then each injector.

    It blew each time.

    I then managed to extract the ECU,

    with the ECU unplugged it DIDN'T blow the fuse. So its either wiring from ECU to fuse box, or under fuse box (to ecu)

    Or the ECU itself. (Now I know this is chipped) So I will follow the guides and the posts what others have done on testing the ecu itself and taking it apart (separating it).

    I now have a multimeter..... and calling it a day for now.....

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X