Car Broke down! :/ after full revs Any help /advice?

[Chris5044]

OMG!! im such a noob! DOH!! i was trying to prize that thing off! .. getting brain dead atm.. thank you guys!

[newsh]

You don’t have to remove the casing that’s glued into the car.
The fusebox is clipped into it. Push the clips back and it will come out.

[Chris5044]

Has anyone ever taken the fusebox out? I've undone the nuts but its held down by some gummy material and a right bitch to get off.. its not budging! anyone any tips? or have I missed something?

thx in advance x

[Greg_S]

Check the resistance on those pins, if it’s a short that is likely the issue to work on next

[Chris5044]

If ECU is blowing fuse every time it's connected most likely the car has issues with the alternator and was overvolting the ECU.
The ECU IIRC at 18V collapses a diode and forces ground and power together, to prevent further damage to itself.

Measure the resistance on the ECU inputs between:
PIN 18 and PIN 24
PIN 27 and PIN 24

If you read 0 ohm on any of those, then your alternator's voltage regulator is shot, causing an overvoltage and the ECU frying the diode in itself.
The ECU then needs repair - the diode needs to be desoldered and replaced.

If you have resistance between those pins and they are not shorted together, then at least that part of the ECU is intact.

Hey thx !! very informative! though does this information still apply if its only blowing when I turn on the ignition.. not when its just plugged in...

[Chris5044]

If ECU is blowing fuse every time it's connected most likely the car has issues with the alternator and was overvolting the ECU.
The ECU IIRC at 18V collapses a diode and forces ground and power together, to prevent further damage to itself.

Measure the resistance on the ECU inputs between:
PIN 18 and PIN 24
PIN 27 and PIN 24

If you read 0 ohm on any of those, then your alternator's voltage regulator is shot, causing an overvoltage and the ECU frying the diode in itself.
The ECU then needs repair - the diode needs to be desoldered and replaced.

If you have resistance between those pins and they are not shorted together, then at least that part of the ECU is intact.

Ah thank you!! will note this, it has had a new alternator and it seems like a beast and aftermarket one

[twoqu]

To OP,
I 'll measure some ecu's to get the resistance values mentioned above. Obviously if yours is kaput its not much help, but it might help someone else out in the future!

[twoqu]

Dmitri,
Is this diode the one between pin 18 and 19?
Problem now seems to be the fuse blowing with ign on rather than just hoked up to Bat Voltage and blowing.

[prj]

If ECU is blowing fuse every time it's connected most likely the car has issues with the alternator and was overvolting the ECU.
The ECU IIRC at 18V collapses a diode and forces ground and power together, to prevent further damage to itself.

Measure the resistance on the ECU inputs between:
PIN 18 and PIN 24
PIN 27 and PIN 24

If you read 0 ohm on any of those, then your alternator's voltage regulator is shot, causing an overvoltage and the ECU frying the diode in itself.
The ECU then needs repair - the diode needs to be desoldered and replaced.

If you have resistance between those pins and they are not shorted together, then at least that part of the ECU is intact.

[Chris5044]

Hello,

It could be worth checking the bottom of the fuse box. I recently had a power failure and it was actually the blower motor had shorted and melted the fuse in the fuse box which then shorted others. All cleaned up now and a new fuse box with the fan not connected and it’s all good!
When I first read your post I was concerned it was the woodruff key and the engine had spun up. I had this about 7 years ago. Was a painful experience.

Good luck

Thank you! will check asap. Thank you everyone for your help and contributions! This forum is awesome!!

[Greenm3]

Hello,

It could be worth checking the bottom of the fuse box. I recently had a power failure and it was actually the blower motor had shorted and melted the fuse in the fuse box which then shorted others. All cleaned up now and a new fuse box with the fan not connected and it’s all good!
When I first read your post I was concerned it was the woodruff key and the engine had spun up. I had this about 7 years ago. Was a painful experience.

Good luck

[Chris5044]

Ok so an update, A friend pointed out a similar fault to mine thats here on the forum :

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...use-27-blowing

I'm having similar issues,

So I followed what they have done and I have unplugged the MAF and tested, and then each injector.

It blew each time.

I then managed to extract the ECU,

with the ECU unplugged it DIDN'T blow the fuse. So its either wiring from ECU to fuse box, or under fuse box (to ecu)

Or the ECU itself. (Now I know this is chipped) So I will follow the guides and the posts what others have done on testing the ecu itself and taking it apart (separating it).

I now have a multimeter..... and calling it a day for now.....

[Mikes2]

Suggests the battery side is ok. Same red wires go to the alternator

[Chris5044]

I'd consider disconnecting the alternator as well. You've got a short somewhere which is tripping the fuse. It's only tripping with ignition on and is ok before you do this ?

Hey yes this is true, only when I turn the key so the lights come on - it immediately trips and burns through the fuse

[Mikes2]

I'd consider disconnecting the alternator as well. You've got a short somewhere which is tripping the fuse. It's only tripping with ignition on and is ok before you do this ?