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urgant help needed with ABY not starter

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  • #46

    RPM Sensor?

    Testing a G4 is something like this: "Test the resistance between between pins 1 and 2 of the black connector end of the G4. (With the bump on the middle of connector up, the pins are, left to right, 1 ,2 and 3.) Between 1 and 2 you should have "approximately 1000 ohms".

    If NO = replace, If YES - test between pins 1 and 3 and then 2 and 3. Both should be infinite ohms, i.e. "open", If NO = replace. If the G4 is fubar'd the engine will not start. If the engine is running when the G4 fails, it will keep running, but never start again (until you replace the G4).
    Steve

    1990 RR 20V
    1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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    • #47
      Originally posted by simons2 View Post
      Am I right in assuming that the ecu has to see up to 19 rpm from the G28 before starting but once running uses other sensors to stay running? If so do you think bump starting might show the ecu way more than the required rpm hence tricking the ecu into thinking the engine is running via the other senors ?
      That’s what iv been working on but not sure how

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      • #48
        Originally posted by steverrquattro View Post
        RPM Sensor?

        Testing a G4 is something like this: "Test the resistance between between pins 1 and 2 of the black connector end of the G4. (With the bump on the middle of connector up, the pins are, left to right, 1 ,2 and 3.) Between 1 and 2 you should have "approximately 1000 ohms".

        If NO = replace, If YES - test between pins 1 and 3 and then 2 and 3. Both should be infinite ohms, i.e. "open", If NO = replace. If the G4 is fubar'd the engine will not start. If the engine is running when the G4 fails, it will keep running, but never start again (until you replace the G4).
        Thanks for the info I’ll tray again I have tryed another on it but I’ll test it

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        • #49
          what's the voltage during starting?

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Henkjan View Post
            what's the voltage during starting?
            10.9 vs

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            • #51
              Originally posted by steverrquattro View Post
              RPM Sensor?

              Testing a G4 is something like this: "Test the resistance between between pins 1 and 2 of the black connector end of the G4. (With the bump on the middle of connector up, the pins are, left to right, 1 ,2 and 3.) Between 1 and 2 you should have "approximately 1000 ohms".

              If NO = replace, If YES - test between pins 1 and 3 and then 2 and 3. Both should be infinite ohms, i.e. "open", If NO = replace. If the G4 is fubar'd the engine will not start. If the engine is running when the G4 fails, it will keep running, but never start again (until you replace the G4).
              Checked all that with no luck done the test and everything

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              • #52
                So another update I’m not sure if it should happen so I’m looking for someone to confirm this

                so with the ignition on a get 12.49 volts on pin 3 of the ecu.
                but when I crank the car I get 0.66 volts. Now looking at the diagrams this is the power to the ecu Is this correct. If someone can confirm it before I carry on with it please.

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                • #53
                  Sounds wrong to me
                  This is probably why it starts when you bump it

                  S2 Coupe 3B Project


                  Ur quattro restoration

                  S2 Avant

                  Boost is the new rock and roll!
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                  • #54
                    That’s what iv been think now just to find out why it’s doing it

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                    • #55
                      Is it possible that a faulty alarm might only cut power to fuel and spark when you are trying to crank; and not when you are simply in run?

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                      • #56
                        How about bridging from +12v supply to ignition fed supply at ecu and see if she goes when you turn the key?

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by jeffstoo View Post
                          How about bridging from +12v supply to ignition fed supply at ecu and see if she goes when you turn the key?
                          So tryed that and no difference.

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                          • #58
                            So I know things get warm but the ecu is getting to warm I would say.

                            Can anyone one tell me what I should get out of pin50 on the ecu. It’s for the Speedo with the ignition on I get 9.52 volts but if I unplug the clocks I get 6.32volts. I’m not sure what I should be getting there that’s why I thought I would ask.

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by Lago Blue View Post
                              Is it possible that a faulty alarm might only cut power to fuel and spark when you are trying to crank; and not when you are simply in run?
                              Do you mean a standard alarm or aftermarket one.

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                              • #60
                                After-market, I didn't see what type yours was but (upon seeing jeffstoo's post), recalled a post about internal alarm fault:

                                https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...62#post1215362

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