URQ 20V RR Rotor Arm

[predding]

Hello, Can anyone possibly tell me the VAG Part Number for the rotor arm and/or if there is a correct aftermarket replacement

Thanks

[newsh]

Hello, Can anyone possibly tell me the VAG Part Number for the rotor arm and/or if there is a correct aftermarket replacement

Thanks

That surely has to be the same part as the 3B narrow rotor arm.
I will have a look.

[newsh]

From a reply by LHD_Kid

“052 905 414c is for the correct narrow rotor tip... (I believe there is also an option from Toyota, part number 19102-02020 , but have not tried it.)
You can modify a wide one, grinding it down to the correct size....”

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/technical/engine-and-turbo/30437-rotor-arm-question

[predding]

From a reply by LHD_Kid

“052 905 414c is for the correct narrow rotor tip... (I believe there is also an option from Toyota, part number 19102-02020 , but have not tried it.)
You can modify a wide one, grinding it down to the correct size....”

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...r-arm-question

A belated thankyou - really appreciated However I cannot find that VAG referenced part anywhere however I did find this link on S2 referencing the correct 11mm tip https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...r-in-3b-engine but is the 3B engine the same as the ABY in the 20v RR.

[K Simmonds]

The 3B and RR engines are pretty much identical, your car will have an RR motor unless someone has fitted an ABY which given your in the states is not very likely as you never got any cars with that motor over there, though you did get pleanty of AAN's in C4 platform cars.

Also the ABY doesn't have a dissy, very early AAN's have what's known as the 'Tuna can' in place of a dissy which is simply a hall sender unit.

[predding]

Hello people,

Sorry to be a bit dim but...is there a diagram anywhere of the HT leads position onto othe dist cap relative to the HT lead number for each cylinder? I did try and label them as I removed them but in the ensuing battle of dragging them out and their fittings breaking in the cap, I lost track of their positions.

Looking at the top of the distributor, going say anti-clockwise what would the cylinder positions be from say the front of the engine (the longest lead) This is the RR 20v engine

** Update ** found the answer here via google search https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...-ht-lead-order and using this diagram https://www.justanswer.com/audi/3j2g...-wire-cap.html

I am also assuming TDC for No1 cylinder is where the 01 & 38 markers are shown opp the mark on the dist body? The blacked out post on the dist cap diagram above. Thanks

https://www.s2forum.com/filedata/fetch?id=2141429

[Tractor Dave]

So I'm watching this with interest as my black Ur arrived with numbers painted on the dizzy cap that don't match those on the plug leads
Now, I suspect that if you set the car to tdc (yes, cylinder 1 tdc) , then rotor arm will be pointing at cylinder 1. It travels clockwise to firing order 12453. Any experts confirm?

[predding]

Happy to help TD as the devil is in the detail. I know there are many experts out there on this forum who have helped me, so these are pictorials of what I am finding to help others.

As you say, If someone can confirm that mark is No1 TDC that would be great then I can start fitting the plug leads on to the dist cap and fit the cable run guides with the aid of a hair dryer as the new cables are about 1mm greater in diameter than the originals and they are going to need some persuasion :-

Then the assembly can be fitted/threaded back around the head

[predding]

Following that firing diagram, fitted new HT cables into dist cap (quite a push fit with a big click), fitted plastic shield, new rotor arm and cap. Fed cables around back of head (up and under as Eddie Waring would have said ;-) ) Cables fitted as original layout and plastic cover refitted. The orange clip on No1 HT lead. as some of you may know, is the removable device to then slide under the plug cap head to help pull them out. I also need to revisit the cover to paint around the raised lettering with a very dilute satin finish black.

[predding]

Update. Everything refitted incl new battery (car standing for a year wrecked the battery) but now engine wont fire at all. I thought if I have the leads mixed up there would be something but nothing. Is there a procedure to check for spark eg LT terminals on coil, HT lead at plug etc Thanks for any comments

[predding]

Update. I went back and double checked the HT leads sequence on the dist cap and all correct. I have now tested the coil with a MM - 12v in and no HT coming out. I have checked the Primary and Secondary coils for resistence - 10 Ohms Primary 7500 Ohms secondary. These are higher values than the generic reading on some YT videos. Does anyone know/have a link to what the coil resistance should for URQ 20V RR?

The only way to be sure on the coil is to try another one but at over 100 Euros its a big spend and TBH I havent touched it ie engine fired OK before I started all the work on it. Running out of ideas TBH...

[predding]

Found the cause of the no spark - too embarassing. Missed reconnecting the Hall sensor cable to the side of the distributor which was buried right at the back of the engine...getting old. Now we have healthy spark and in correct timing but still no bang despite fuel system working fine, At a loss now. All I can think of is something has failed in the immobiliser and am trying to remove it but without a wiring diagram to ensure all original connections are correct, am very apprehensive. Wen I find the cause, it's going to be something really simple/stupid - I just know it

[Tractor Dave]

Can't play your video. Are you getting any pops?

[predding]

I just double checked it Dave and it works. Can you download it? No nothing at all which is what is making me think there is still a low level cut off in action somewhere eg maybe from the immobiliser. I changed the rotor arm and it is the correct specification ie its not tracking across posts. I am going to remove one of the plugs again and test it with the immobiliser ON ie to see if it functions ie if it cuts the feed to the coil and stops the HT from firing

[predding]

After much researching again today and some feedback from another member I am going to check the MFTS of Multi-Fail Temperature Sensor :-) It seems to affect starting and poor running and may also account for the 3 bars at high temp on the temp gauge when turning on the ignition ie something is shorting out / has failed . Its about half way down this article

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/cooling.html#gauge