Quick 'how to' replace fuel lines

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Finally got round to doing my fuel lines today.
TBH they didn't look too bad, thought they may even scrape through an MOT.
As it turned out - I'm very glad I replaced them!
I advise anyone with corrosion of the fuel pipes in and around the rubber mounting areas to have a serious think about replacing the pipes.
Basically, when I released the clips and started to pull the rubbers off the pipes, the corrosion had welded the pipes to the rubber and the act of pulling the rubbers off actually caused 1 pipe to start leaking. Upon inspection I found it was only the rust in the rubber mounting that was in effect 'patching' the pipe. eek!
Anyway, job now done using some neat little pipe connectors as described below:
(this may take a couple of hours as I'm multi - tasking )

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take some cupro nickel fuel pipe.....

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and these rather excellent pipe joiners.
They're WADE connectors which apparently are the best, I was informed that these little beauties will with stand huge pressures and are not poor quality like a lot of the cr*p you can get if you just go to a plumbers merchants. They were about £1.50 each.

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exploded....

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these were the little blighters, you can see the corrosion doesn't look too bad - but when I took the rubber off, it peed fuel all down my arm

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This was the tank end. The right angle union is the breather pipe and it has a barb on one end that fits into an 8mm plastic pipe, the other end has a ferrule on it that connects the copper pipe. I soaked this joint for a week (spraying it every couple of days or so) knowing very well that it was seized solid and would never come off.............I was right!
Had to cut the plastic pipe off just above the barb and the whole right angle thingemy jig was discarded along with the rest of the corroded pipe work and some of my skin

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nasty horrible oxidisation - DAMN YOU - WHY WON'T YOU STOP YOUR DESTRUCTIVE WAYS!!!!!

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This is looking at the front end after the pipes had been cut off at a suitable point where they were straight enough to get a joiner on too and had no more corrosion.
(This point was up and under the heat shield as the pipes start to go vertical and enter the engine bay).

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The stubborn thingemy jig that is now residing in the bin

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8mm joiners now in position, bit of a squeeze but not too bad. Tighten them up fairly tight but not over tight, they are only brass after all.
Oh, also, when you have cut your pipes off, there will be a little fuel leakage, but it will stop after a minute or so. You wont have to bung any holes up.

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flaring the ends of the new pipes where they will be going into the existing rubber pipes...

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After having chopped the plastic fuel pipe where the thingemy jig was attached, I had to find a pipe stiffener so that when I put some new rubber hose over this plastic pipe, it wouldn't collapse. It seems 3/16" brake pipe is a perfect fit as you can see

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next the new pipe was straightened out and cut to length.
Connected to the joiners one at a time (don't forget the olives )

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This is the tank end and shows the 2 existing rubber pipes joined up and also the new bit of rubber pipe that I had to use to replace the thingemy jig...

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The blue stuff is grease, i used it EVERYWHERE! lashings of it inside the rubber mountings will stop water getting in and rotting these pipes away in another 13 years (Thats optimism that the car's got a while left to live )