ABY Timing Belt Renewal

[S2central.net]

Ant - I don't understand the aircon thing at all... Was your aircon factory fitted standard affair or some aftermarket / dealer fit thing ?

The tool I used was 2084 with an extension welded onto the section where it fits the pulley to give it better purchase on the keyed section. Without the extra bits I doubt it would have worked. Let me get a photo and a ruler.... tick tock

Paul

[S2central.net]

Pic of 2084 tool

[S2central.net]

Pic showing one of two welded on sections to 'snout' of 2084 so it engages nicely with the pulley. Dimensions are annotated on picture - they are approximate following a quick measurement.

[S2central.net]

And the other welded on piece...

I had absolutely no issue with clearance to the aircon or anything else.

PS - I can't take any credit for this - it was the work of Bigboot in Cork - top man

Paul

[waad_uk]

Hi Paul,

Any chance you could measure the the other key dims so I could make a copy from scratch?

I guess the ID and OD of the snout, and the length and width of the handle bit....

[S2 Ant]

2084 is a 3B tool as i understand - from memory the slot in the tool wasnt correct size for the ABY - the other one in the left of that picture with the bolt to lock in place wasnt quite long enough to bolt in to place and sit against the side of the block as intended.
The lock part for the pulley slotted in fine, but the bolt didnt reach the intended bolt in place and it didnt sit up against the block

[S2central.net]

@Ant - Left in what picture ? I'm confused...

2084 is indeed a 3B/RR locking tool - but with these welded bits works in ABY.

You were using 3256 isn't that right.


@Waad - I very much doubt I'd be able to accurately describe the 2084 in measurements. Technical drawing never was my bag. I'll have an attempt if I get the time, but you may well be into some trial and error with that... Would be better if you have hands on a locally loaned 2084 as your starting point.

[S2 Ant]

Sorry for not being clear - the tool on the left of this image, 3256 sounds like what it was yes.
On my old ABY with aircon, PAS and alternator, the part the bolt runs thru didnt reach the part it was meant to bolt in to and that flattend edge didnt reach the block to mate up to provide a suitably strong lock

[S2central.net]

Doesn't that long probey bit just slide into the snub mount - Or is it supposed to align with a bolt hole for something else in that area so it can be used as a crank lock in either direction ?

Sorry for stupid questions here - never seen one in the flesh and we all know how ropey the OFRM diagrams and info can be sometimes... Clear as mud.

Paul

[merlin's S4]

Getting the required 200Nm plus 180 degrees into that bottom pulley bolt requires some energy I have to say - and lots of trust in the locking tool and snub mount bracket...


Paul

Interesting! I didn't know you could do it like that. I thought I'd need a bloody great torque wrench for the 450Nm.

[S2central.net]

The older OFRM calls up 450Nm of course, but even VAG dealerships don't have such a big torque wrench.

The other option is at 350Nm with use of VAG2079 extension bar - there must have been a VAG wrench that went to 350Nm.

200Nm plus 180 degrees was specified in later technical bulletins for the AAN & ABY engine but is equally applicable to 3B and RR - its the same bolt, crank & stuff.


Paul

[rj scotty]

The older OFRM calls up 450Nm of course, but even VAG dealerships don't have such a big torque wrench.

The other option is at 350Nm with use of VAG2079 extension bar - there must have been a VAG wrench that went to 350Nm.

200Nm plus 180 degrees was specified in later technical bulletins for the AAN & ABY engine but is equally applicable to 3B and RR - its the same bolt, crank & stuff.


Paul

Thats nice to know

cheers

rich

[S2central.net]

Yes, but it takes some good monkey swinging and a lot of trust to wind all that 180 degrees on let me tell you. Only a mahoosive high tensile bolt would take the strain.

I could only have done this with the 3/4" socket set I borrowed - the 1/2" stuff just bends at those torque levels.

You don't need a full 3/4 set - just a good deep 27mm socket and T-bar... Then add a useful length of scaffold pipe to swing on and you are on your way.

[rj scotty]

Yes, but it takes some good monkey swinging and a lot of trust to wind all that 180 degrees on let me tell you. Only a mahoosive high tensile bolt would take the strain.

I could only have done this with the 3/4" socket set I borrowed - the 1/2" stuff just bends at those torque levels.

You don't need a full 3/4 set - just a good deep 27mm socket and T-bar... Then add a useful length of scaffold pipe to swing on and you are on your way.

I know what you mean, you get the same problem when doing the hub nuts up with a 1/2 bar but this is not so critical as the crank bolt I guess. Although I notice its the same torque/angle.

Defiantly getting a 3/4 bar and a couple of choice sockets

cheers

rich

[mcandmar]

the other one in the left of that picture with the bolt to lock in place wasnt quite long enough to bolt in to place and sit against the side of the block as intended.
The lock part for the pulley slotted in fine, but the bolt didnt reach the intended bolt in place and it didnt sit up against the block

What he said, i dont understand how thats supposed to work

It might be something to do with the snub mount, on my ABY engine its also the AC pump mount and was a big heavy steel thing. The 7A mount (non ac) is a small cast alloy unit. Possible it may fill the gap for the crank tool to mount onto.