Oil Pressure issues

[AndyP]

So what's the spanner size on the oil gauge sender?

Just been and measured one and it's 17mm.

[max_s2]

RPM's are so hight because of faulty IAC valve, havent replaced it yet. At ~900rpm I usualy have 1.5-2bar the point was to show that mine VDO pressure sender reads exactly the same as mechanical gauge.

I don't know the correct KM's of the car. When I bought it, it had almost 500k on the dash but I was told that it was replaced because of kind a errors and before it was aprox 220k if I can believe it. Now I've my ex-S2 dash with aprox those same 220k.

[A80Avant]

good to know.
Looks like with a fully new rebuilt engine, i would excpect some kind of minor improvement on the gauge anyway.

thanks for the info!

[A80Avant]

so we changed the oil today only, to 10W50 titan fuchs and used a MANN filter.

oil pressure seems to have gained slightly about 0.2bar.

So now sits most of the times around 1.6 to 1.8bar at coolant temp of 80C and rpm 940.
Once the fan kicks in and temps reach 83 and above, it goes to 1.4ish bar

any revs above 2000rpm is already around 3.8 to 4bar.

I didnt change the pressure sensor in order to see if the oil was the culprit. It seems that somewhat it was.

However, in the process of tracking a couple of small oil leaks, i have arranged to meet Brian later in the month to change the sender anyway, along with looking for possible leak areas.

[AndyP]

Thats almost the same as I get on the same oil.

[Zoig]

Sorry to wake up the old thread, but it might be useful to someone in the future.

My UrS6 2.2T oil pressure was missing after rebuild, checked with both mechanical gauge and the cluster 0-5Bar gauge. Pressure was completely 0, I tried releasing the oli feed to the turbo and there was oli flow when cranking the engine. Also tried remonving the oli manometer to see if there is oli flow to it (M10x1 upper position instead of 1.8Bar sensor) and there was also olilflow.

Changed the oli pump for another unit that I knew was in working order but just not as good, gained a bit of oli pressure up to 1.2Bar in cold start but started falling towards 0 when getting warmer, turned off the engine just when the tappet serenade started playing.

Brand new Mahle filter boosted the pressure up to 3Bar on start, but still started falling down when the oil started getting warmer, also had the tappet serenade once again. initially i had some kind of cheap filter for initial engine startup.

Then the one way valve was changed inside block, just behind the oil pressure sensor that keeps the oil draining back from the head. The valve I had in was stuck half way open and crushed for unknown reason, so it flowed a bit but just not enough to keep the pressure up. With a brand new (10£) valve the pressure reached almost 7Bar on startup, and fell down to 1.9Bar on warm oli, slight revving boosted the pressure back to 6Bar.

[Tonks4x4]

Then the one way valve was changed inside block, just behind the oil pressure sensor that keeps the oil draining back from the head. The valve I had in was stuck half way open and crushed for unknown reason, so it flowed a bit but just not enough to keep the pressure up. With a brand new (10£) valve the pressure reached almost 7Bar on startup, and fell down to 1.9Bar on warm oli, slight revving boosted the pressure back to 6Bar.

You have fitted ARP studs, and not shortened the one that needs shortening before fitting. Or it crushes the check valve....



Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

[UrS4boy]

Videos that show how an ARP crank main stud can crush the oil check valve

Zoig: I guess you missed my post from a few days ago, i.e. videos that show how an ARP crank main stud that hasn't been shortened will crush the oil check valve, leading to all sorts of nasty oil pressure issues:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66124&highlight=oil+check+valve

Another related recent post:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/247252.phtml

[Zoig]

That's the weird part, i'm using only stock bolts so there should have been no crushing. Engine has K24 7400 so there was no sense for anything else than rebuilt stock internals.

[Thuppu]

That's the weird part, i'm using only stock bolts so there should have been no crushing. Engine has K24 7400 so there was no sense for anything else than rebuilt stock internals.

Sonic did have the same issue. http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66064

So, is there some changes in the stock bolts? Has the part been number changed?

[UrS4boy]

....So, is there some changes in the stock bolts? Has the part been number changed?

Based on the investigative videos in the link that I posted, the stock cap BOLTS will only just "touch" (by 2 or 3 threads) the check valve area IF AND ONLY IF the bolt is installed WITHOUT the main cap, i.e. while chasing the threads clear. When installed normally, with the main cap, the correct stock OE bolt will never come into contact with the oil check valve.

[euro_urs4]

Based on the investigative videos in the link that I posted, the stock cap BOLTS will only just "touch" (by 2 or 3 threads) the check valve area IF AND ONLY IF the bolt is installed WITHOUT the main cap, i.e. while chasing the threads clear. When installed normally, with the main cap, the correct stock OE bolt will never come into contact with the oil check valve.

UrS4boy... Is it known that everytime a arp head stud bolt will hit the check valve ? And can this be fixed outside the motor , or does it have to be taken apart? I have experienced low oil pressure previously which I thought was from my oil pump that shattered on the front, once that was replaced all seemed well, and

Now I am experiencing low oil pressure slightly below 1bar, after my holset super 40 rear piston seal went, and I also just recently changed my oil out line to 12an and oil in to 6an, could these larger lines cause for a slighlt pressure loss ?

[AndyP]

UrS4boy... Is it known that everytime a arp head stud bolt will hit the check valve ? And can this be fixed outside the motor , or does it have to be taken apart? I have experienced low oil pressure previously which I thought was from my oil pump that shattered on the front, once that was replaced all seemed well, and

It's the mains studs that hits the valve not the head stud. It will only crush the valve if you tighten the stud right down when fitting it, if you just put them in finger tight you'll be ok.

[euro_urs4]

It's the mains studs that hits the valve not the head stud. It will only crush the valve if you tighten the stud right down when fitting it, if you just put them in finger tight you'll be ok.

sorry ment to say main stud, and i had the shop install these so i am not sure what they did or did not do, doesn't hurt to remove it and verify that its not crushed im guessing.

[AndyP]

Yes it won't hurt, just take the oil pressure gauge sender out and un-screw the valve. If it won't unscrew it probably means the stud is pushed up against it and holding it in place