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Wiring Masters Needed B3 90q with AAN swap

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Durr McDanks View Post
    I am only getting one code and its the G28 code.
    Presumably that is a false positive (i.e. G28 = engine rpm sensor). However, it might not be. (If the ECU does not get an RPM reading of 25 RPM or more during the time the starter is engaged, it is not happy and will not trigger the FP relay, etc.).

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  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    I am only getting one code and its the G28 code.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Are you near any of the people listed in this quattroworld UrS4/S6 forum member location post:

    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/69040.phtml

    Hopefully you are and they can try your ECU in their car for a few minutes.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Durr McDanks View Post
    It worked in the donor car so I just assumed the ECU should be working. It also spits out codes. How should I get a hold of Steve?
    If it is spitting out codes, it is likely alive. Do you want to share some of these codes, besides the G28 engine speed sensor code (that all non-running engines will spit out)?

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  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    It worked in the donor car so I just assumed the ECU should be working. It also spits out codes. How should I get a hold of Steve?

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Durr McDanks View Post
    On the 034 harness there are two grounds(or what I assume are grounds) of which both are attached to the back corner of the cam cover. Where should I send my ECU to to make sure everything is working properly?
    Are you kidding? After all this, you don't even know if the ECU is working properly? How was it in the donor car? Did it work then?

    A good way to check if it is working is to find somebody local to you with an UrS4 or S6 and ask them if you can swap your ECU into their car to verify that it works. There is Steve Eiche in Arvada Colorado who can check your ECU if it doesn't work. (Common problem is water-damaged ECUs from failure to clean the UrS4/S6 plenum drain).

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  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    On the 034 harness there are two grounds(or what I assume are grounds) of which both are attached to the back corner of the cam cover. Where should I send my ECU to to make sure everything is working properly?

    Leave a comment:


  • S2central.net
    replied
    That's a good point. The factory loom has a big earth strap from coils to the head.

    Would be good to know if the ECU is immo type or not as well.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy View Post
    If you have voltage (11.3V in this case) at the white connectors, but there is no spark while you turn the key and engage the starter, then there must be an issue with the ECU *OR* the way you have the 034 HO coil packs wired to the ECU.
    Further to the above, based on this photo from the 034 website, I don't see a separate ground for the coil packs. This means that 034 is assuming that the ground for the coil packs is made through the AAN harness, which includes one ground wire to the back corner of the cam cover and one to the intake manifold.

    Durr, do you have these grounds in place? No grounds, no spark (the internal POSs are really switches that the ECU controls and sends power FROM the coils, through the POS (internal to the coil packs in this case) to ground in order to create the spark at the right time and for the correct length (dwell). No grounds, no spark.

    Last edited by UrS4boy; 30 January 2011, 17:01.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Durr McDanks View Post
    There is no spark but 11.3 volts is registering at each pin in the white connectors.
    If you have voltage (11.3V in this case) at the white connectors, but there is no spark while you turn the key and engage the starter, then there must be an issue with the ECU *OR* the way you have the 034 HO coil packs wired to the ECU.

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  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    There is no spark but 11.3 volts is registering at each pin in the white connectors.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Durr McDanks View Post
    At the ECU its still 11.3V so I went to the battery and the battery is at 11.3v. I have charged the battery for a while and its a relatively new battery and its still stuck at 11.3V. But the main question I have is is it necessary to have 12V or will a 11.3 suffice?
    A "12 volt" DC system is rarely at 12V. As you have found, with the engine not running the battery has less than 12V (11.3V is probably fine, I doubt that is your problem). Once the car starts, the alternator will put 13.7V or so into the system so when you put the headlights and heater fan and wipers on, you will still have at least 12V (hopefully - when you engine finally is started).
    Last edited by UrS4boy; 29 January 2011, 05:01.

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  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    At the ECU its still 11.3V so I went to the battery and the battery is at 11.3v. I have charged the battery for a while and its a relatively new battery and its still stuck at 11.3V. But the main question I have is is it necessary to have 12V or will a 11.3 suffice?

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  • Sleeper_Avant
    replied
    check and make sure it is getting 12v feed at the ECU while cranking, had this while putting the engine in my A4.
    Simple fix if it is, power gets cut from main power sources under cranking, i.e fans, radio, lights etc

    Sean.

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  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    1. I have power on all 5 pins but its getting 11.3 volts does it absolutely 12?
    2. I am running to the store to get the tester

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