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Wiring Masters Needed B3 90q with AAN swap

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  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy View Post
    YAY!!!

    That was a lot of pain to get there.

    I must say, it did force me to find out about Pin 37 versus the Fuel Pump Relay as a source of power to the injectors, etc. and this resulted in two new FAQ-type posts:

    The Holding Relay:
    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/102009.phtml

    and for the injector wiring:
    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/90802.phtml

    So thanks.

    Good luck finishing your conversion. Enjoy your 20vt and drive safe.
    Thank you and I will drive safe. All I have left to do is a complete replacement of my rear brakes. I just finished up replacing all brake lines(rusted) and front rotors/ calipers!

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Durr McDanks View Post
    Got the the new ECU and she started!!!!!!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you guys for all your help!
    YAY!!!

    That was a lot of pain to get there.

    I must say, it did force me to find out about Pin 37 versus the Fuel Pump Relay as a source of power to the injectors, etc. and this resulted in two new FAQ-type posts:

    The Holding Relay:
    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/102009.phtml

    and for the injector wiring:
    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/90802.phtml

    So thanks.

    Good luck finishing your conversion. Enjoy your 20vt and drive safe.

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    Congrats!

    Leave a comment:


  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    Got the the new ECU and she started!!!!!!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you guys for all your help!

    Leave a comment:


  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    Just giving an update, got the ECU tested and it wouldnt fire on their car so I am going to hunt down a new ECU. Like an idiot, I probably didnt ground the harness properly the first couple of times I tried to start it

    Leave a comment:


  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    Alright, well I dont believe this car has an immobilizer 1988 B3 90q, but I am not sure.
    A while ago, someone else was also telling me if the ECU serial number ended in 07A or something like that then it didnt have an immobilizer(which when I checked back then it ended in that number)

    But I am going to lay out how I have everything currently wired and if anything is missing/wrong please inform me so I can correct the mistake.

    AAN ECU pin 3. Fuel Pump Relay signal (output) (E87) is wired to the green/ violet wire (pin s) from the b3 fusebox at terminal B.

    AAN ECU pin 18. ECU Power Supply Terminal 30 (+12V), I have hooked up to the battery with a fuse inline.

    AAN ECU pin 27: ECU Power supply Terminal #15 (Ignition +12V) is hooked up to the black wire in terminal B of the fusebox(B15) via the unprotected side of the S115 fuse.

    AAN ECU pin 37: B3 90q fusebox-->87a-->splits to two wires-->wire 1 goes to unprotected side of S75
    -->wire 2 goes to unprotected side of S116 *(S116 injector fuse in my case)

    I also did your cranking LED light test to confirm switched power only when cranking for pin 37 and it worked.

    Also, when I go back this weekend I am going to see if fuel is coming out of the injectors. I know fuel is in the lines just not sure if its spraying.
    Last edited by Durr McDanks; 9 February 2011, 23:00.

    Leave a comment:


  • S2central.net
    replied
    @Durr - there are 55 fricking pins on that ECU plug... MOST of them need to be wired perfectly for the car to start.

    A silly mistake or oversight on certain pins will make the car never start.

    An immo ECU will also not start the car - unless you have sync'd it to the car's IMMO already.

    There really are SOHHHHHH many things to check that only experienced hands and eyes can do effectively... A few of us are really trying hard to help you out here - but unless you fully understand what is being said then you are lost at sea with this electrical shyte.

    Even if you understand it all - you need some test equipment to properly verify some signals etc.

    Please don't take this as condescending or unhelpful - you might be a brain surgeon or the worlds best metal fabricator, but I don't think you have the background on the electrical stuff to make progress alone.

    Leave a comment:


  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    Well I am getting switched 12v power at all five power lead pins and when I disconnect the ECU and measure pin 27 it also gets a switched 12v so I dont see how the ignition could be wired incorrectly. Its also grounded at the back of the valve cover so the circuit is complete.

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Durr McDanks View Post
    Yeah, I removed the sensors and saw the pin at the previous post angle locations. So does this mean that it could be the G28 sensor or the ECU?
    I don't know about prj or Paul N. but I am still not even sure that you have the ECU wired to the engine properly, e.g. the Pin 37 "issue". You could indeed have a dead G28 engine speed sensor. Tough for us to tell when we all get false positive "G28 failure" codes just because the engine isn't running.

    If a new G28 doesn't get your engine started, you could try borrowing an known to be good Motronic ECU and try it in your car. If that doesn't work, you need professional help (which you probably need now).

    Leave a comment:


  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    Yeah, I removed the sensors and saw the pin at the previous post angle locations. So does this mean that it could be the G28 sensor or the ECU?
    Last edited by Durr McDanks; 8 February 2011, 12:18.

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Durr McDanks View Post
    Sorry for the late response; back in school. The pin is in there but I didnt find it when the crank and cam were aligned: I found it when the crank was approximately 30 degrees away from crank alignment and the cam was approximately 135 degrees past the cam marker point.
    The pin for the crank position sensor (G4) is NOT at the TDC mark. That is why the pin *should* be under the crank position sensor when the TDC is in the bell housing viewing window, as shown in the diagram I posted above. Move the engine to get the TDC mark in the "window", remove the G4 and G28 sensors and you *should* see the crank position pin right where the G4 sensor was (the G28 engine speed sensor sits just above the flywheel ring gear teeth).

    Leave a comment:


  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    I don't know if thats a problem, but I am going to buy a new sensor just in case.
    Last edited by Durr McDanks; 8 February 2011, 07:38.

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  • Durr McDanks
    replied
    Sorry for the late response; back in school. The pin is in there but I didnt find it when the crank and cam were aligned: I found it when the crank was approximately 30 degrees away from crank alignment and the cam was approximately 135 degrees past the cam marker point.

    Leave a comment:


  • S2central.net
    replied
    Don't ever forget that the older Bentley manuals are not much more than edited versions of the English OFRM that come from Audi. The newer ones have a bit more explanatory info, but don't usually go into too much technical details on some topics... ERWIN is best source of data when you can afford it, but Bentleys are great value - especially for older cars like C4 and B2/B3/B4 platform.

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by S2central.net View Post
    LOL at that - seemingly lost in translation then
    Paul: I think the difference is you are describing how it really works, i.e. the ECU's ability to count flywheel teeth and figure things out re: firing injectors and triggering the POSs to fire the coils. However, in defense of Bentley, I think we can agree that without that G4 reference pin the engine will not start. Once the engine is running, the pin can (and has) fall(en) off and the engine will continue to run, based on the ECU using the flywheel teeth to keep track of all things timing. However, IF the pin fell off while the engine was running and then the ignition is turned off, the engine will never (ever) start again until the reference pin is found and replaced in the correct position. One UrS person local to me lost his reference pin and was able to re-man one from square stock and weld it back in position through the hole in the bellhousing that the starter normally sits in.

    Detailed G4 reference pin location information:
    http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/51259.phtml

    Leave a comment:

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