Boost stops at 1.4bar - N75?

[newsh]

When you take the sprocket off check the keyway carefully.

[hunker7]

I think it is flying now I am well excited to sort timing out. I will take it all apart and do it again, as i need to change water pump, don't want to risk it.

[hunker7]

Thank mate, is the anything else that can be done/checked while it's all off?

[UrS4boy]

Comment on my suggested 1 tooth correction

I posted your one tooth story on my home forum, warning folks to check their cam-crank timing if they can't get a boost issue sorted. Then I posted my suggested correction procedure up for comment. One well known and respected long time UrS6 owner ( Tom G, aka scarman) provided the following comments:

"He will have to remove the lock carrier piece across the front of the engine to have enough room to work, and the serpentine belt tensioner and viscous fan. With these out of the way, there is room to remove the timing belt cover and access the tensioner to loosen the belt. It won't come off the lower sprocket teeth, so no problem there while he removes it from the upper sprocket and rotates the sprocket over one tooth and slips it back in place remembering to maintain the tension on the water pump side. If you aren't a total klutz, moving the sprocket teeth one space is a simple maneuver. No reason to mess with the sprocket bolt. Then re-tension the belt at the tensioner in the normal manner. Don't overtorque the small bolts for the tensioner adjustment. Add a little thread lock if concerned.

Then do the Bentley reverse of removal process to put things back together. The water pump could be changed while there, but I would not change it and continue to use the old belt."

I replied thanks and told him that you had previously done the G40 cam sensor using Nate P's (Imquattro's) procedure so you have a good idea what was what.

[hunker7]

Thanks for that. I need to take front bumper off anyways, and i need to change coolant too, so will be doing all that at the same time. And only changing water pump because there is no record of it being changed, just ttiming belt kit, £30 isn't much for peace of mind.

[newsh]

Well hopefully the crankshaft bolt was done up correctly and the "one tooth out" issue is not due to the lower sprocket slipping. I'm not sure how you can check this without actually removing the lower pulley which is essentially a complete timing belt job.

[hunker7]

I don't want to risk it, I'll do full timing belt job and i know it's 100%.

[newsh]

Good plan.

This was the lower sprocket on my indigo Avant.

[UrS4boy]

I posted your one tooth story on my home forum, warning folks to check their cam-crank timing if they can't get a boost issue sorted. Then I posted my suggested correction procedure up for comment. One well known and respected long time UrS6 owner ( Tom G, aka scarman) provided the following comments:

"He will have to remove the lock carrier piece across the front of the engine to have enough room to work, and the serpentine belt tensioner and viscous fan. With these out of the way, there is room to remove the timing belt cover and access the tensioner to loosen the belt. It won't come off the lower sprocket teeth, so no problem there while he removes it from the upper sprocket and rotates the sprocket over one tooth and slips it back in place remembering to maintain the tension on the water pump side. If you aren't a total klutz, moving the sprocket teeth one space is a simple maneuver. No reason to mess with the sprocket bolt. Then re-tension the belt at the tensioner in the normal manner. Don't overtorque the small bolts for the tensioner adjustment. Add a little thread lock if concerned.

Then do the Bentley reverse of removal process to put things back together. The water pump could be changed while there, but I would not change it and continue to use the old belt."

I replied thanks and told him that you had previously done the G40 cam sensor using Nate P's (Imquattro's) procedure so you have a good idea what was what.

An additional comment came in from "UrSobessed" ("Dace"):

"If only needing to access the upper timing belt stuff(cam gear, tensioner) to adjust the gear forward one tooth, there is no need to remove the fan and viscous coupler. The serp belt tensioner is the only thing in the way of the cam cover coming off."

All moot if you really want to do the timing belt. Note: IMO the only acceptable way to do the timing belt is with the proper crank lock tools and the torque wrench extender and a 3/4" drive torque wrench and the appropriate 3/4" drive socket(s). Anything else is bush league/hack/dodgebodge.

[newsh]

Agreed!

[hunker7]

Just moved the cam pulley as UrS4boy suggested, and **** all changed, runs exactly the same.

[UrS4boy]

Just moved the cam pulley as UrS4boy suggested, and **** all changed, runs exactly the same.

Did you recheck the cam timing after the move, i.e. set the crank to the proper mark (at the flywheel through the observation port, by rolling the engine ahead, AND THEN recheckingthe cam sprocket to cam cover marks?

That one tooth should have made the difference.

[hunker7]

Just checked, it's all alingned

[geneandbolly]

GIVE IT TO A RECOMMENDED PROFESSIONAL BEFORE WE ALL HAVE A STROKE!!!!

[hunker7]

GIVE IT TO A RECOMMENDED PROFESSIONAL BEFORE WE ALL HAVE A STROKE!!!!

NO!!! ...ok, I am actually considering it. But I hate giving my car to people