The pump is a new Audi item so I don't think the pump itself is the issue. However it has to be something in there. I was thinking maybe an issue with the basket? Although it looked clean on the filter maybe I thought with the tank over 2/3 full it'd be spilling over the top of the basket OR a split return or something introducing air into it? I need a proper look in the tank rather than just looking at the filter. Or maybe a situation where the filter was a bit blocked even though it looked ok?
S6 timing
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Power lost again today on a still full tank so I sneaked off to my workshop and fitted the 'Stack' electronic fuel pressure gauge and went for a blast. Think I've found my issue. At 3,500 and 1.5 bar I have 5.2 bar fuel pressure, at 5,500 at the same boost I have 4.9 bar fuel pressure!Comment
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Just to review the "math": A 4 Bar fuel pressure regulator should always provide 4 bar across the fuel injector, i.e. at zero boost/vacuum, the fuel pressure should be 4 Bar, 58 psig. So at 1.5 Bar boost, you need to have 5.5 Bar at the fuel rail, i.e. you're already too low at 5.2 Bar. Obviously 4.9 is way too low = running lean = higher air/fuel ratio = potential pinging = knock sensors "tell" the ECU to dial back the timing = down on power.Power lost again today on a still full tank so I sneaked off to my workshop and fitted the 'Stack' electronic fuel pressure gauge and went for a blast. Think I've found my issue. At 3,500 and 1.5 bar I have 5.2 bar fuel pressure, at 5,500 at the same boost I have 4.9 bar fuel pressure!
Done the relay on the pump which is new. Just also realised that on a long steep hill at WOT, the dash boost is reading higher than my mechanical gauge.
Stock ECU at 1.0 bar (mechanical gauge) fuel pressure gauge is showing 4.8 bar. Is this enough to cause the fault?
So fuel delivery is the cause of your problem.
In my opinion you might want to (in no particular order):
1. Check the voltage at the fuel pump under various load conditions (I have done this by connecting long leads from "Scotch" taps I add to the 12V and ground wires at the top of the fuel pump and then running them up to my digital multimeter on the dash and then driving around, testing.
2. Consider replacing the fuel pump. I know you say it is new but "new" today could mean made in China stuff that fails in very short order (or never worked properly from the get go).
3. Clearing out the fuel lines at the fuel filter by running the pump via apply power to the No. 17 fuse (down stream leg), as described previously. THEN replace the fuel filter with new.
4. Check the fuel lines from the fuel pump to the fuel filter for kinks/bends/crushes. Something is restricting flow/burning pressure.Last edited by UrS4boy; 26 December 2014, 16:23.RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
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RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
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That's what I'm saying. The math doesn't add up. It's showing 0.5 on the dash which agrees with the mechanical gauge and the fuel pressure is at 3.7 bar (should be 3.5 surely?) and at 1.0 bar of boost its showing 4.8 bar fuel pressure (should be bang on 5?)
At 1.0 on the dash it does sit at 4 bar.Comment
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Sorry but I can't remember if your ECU has a 250 kPa MAP sensor or 300 kPa MAP sensor. The OE digital boost gauge was calibrated to the 250 kPa MAP sensor and if you changed the MAP sensor from a 250 kPa one to a 300 kPa one, *ALL* the readings on the OE digital boost gauge are wrong, across the board. So these readings might be another "red herring" in the search for the real problem.
Or not.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
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