No boost after engine/turbo upgrade

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  • newsh
    replied
    Thanks mate, now get that phone on charge!
    So it seems to me that when I did the ECU pin swap I should have also swapped pins 1 and 3 on the Hall sensor plug??

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  • gmac78
    replied
    Cheers for the info lads. No further forward today, whipped off the dizzy, drilled out the pin on the gear wheel and removed and thats about it. I'll strip it down tomorrow in preparation for the Hall sender arriving.

    On a plus not i did repack the wadding on my exhaust on my 2004 Aprilia Tuono. Sounds better now. Didn't sound quite right at high revs previously. Spot on at idle and then during the first half off the rev range but more than that it was missing the bassey twin rumble that i so enjoy. The packing blows out from the rear of the can forward and found about half of it missing.

    Anyway thats totally off on a tangent but my news for the day none the less.

    Glad the 5v i am seeing is correct. I've got high hopes for this hall sensor when it arrives. Hope my fault code is cured and that i can finally experience RS2 power in all its glory.

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  • Error404
    replied
    Dammit I can't do this **** on my phone

    Edit- there we go, fixed!

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  • newsh
    replied
    No boost after engine/turbo upgrade

    Both the same?
    Last edited by newsh; 29 July 2016, 21:11.

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  • Error404
    replied
    5v is correct. I mistakenly thought 12v
    Had a look, it's fed from pin 12 of ECU on ABY

    All irrelevant I guess if John's swap worked fine using his untouched 3B G40

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  • andy10v
    replied
    From my 3b

    Pin 1-pin 3 4.99volts
    Pin 1-cam cover 5.02v

    Pin1-Pin 2
    0.11v Hall sensor window closed
    4.88v Hall sensor window open

    Mine was inverted from the info on SJM, mine was low voltage, then higher voltage at the window open.

    Hall sensor is inverted ABY-3B

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  • Error404
    replied
    3B schematic:



    ABY schematic:

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Error404; 29 July 2016, 21:02.

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  • twoqu
    replied
    Sorry it should be 5V as its referenced from the ecu!

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by Error404
    I seem to remember the hall sensor wiring is reversed on the 3B to ABY.
    This is AAN (and ABY):





    Easy enough to resolve the issue with absolute certainty with the harness connector disconnected from the G40 itself. by looking for continuity between either Pin 1 or Pin 3 and ground. Only the correct on will have continuity.

    Last edited by UrS4boy; 29 July 2016, 17:49.

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  • gmac78
    replied
    When you get a chance could you try a multimeter across the Dizzy 3 pin connector with ignition on. I'm intrigued to see would values you get? Perhaps this is my problem all along??

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  • newsh
    replied
    I didn't change any wiring at the hall sender when doing the pin swap on my 3B.

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  • gmac78
    replied
    Are we sure about 12v across across 3B Pin1 and Pin 3? I only get 4.99 with ignition on? Hmmm.....

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  • Error404
    replied
    I seem to remember the hall sensor wiring is reversed on the 3B to ABY.

    ABY is +12v pin 1, ECU output pin 2, earth pin 3
    3B is earth pin 1, ECU output pin 2, +12v pin 3

    So perhaps the polarity of the sensor is the opposite of what the ABY ecu needs to see?
    A suitable LED across pin 1 + 2 at the hall sensor connector would tell you if/how it is working

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  • twoqu
    replied
    To check whether the hall sender is functioning you would need to remove the dizzy cap to observe the window in the rotor. Essentially they should be nearly 5V when the rotor covers the sender and 0V when the sender is exposed by the window in the rotor. The dizzy connector shoul have ground/earth on pin 1, 12V+ on pin 3 and the signal out from pin 2 to the ecu alternates between 5V and 0V. The values in the real world are close.
    The ign will need to be on to get the measurement.

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  • gmac78
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy
    I stumbled upon this guide last night, just what i'm looking for, perfect! Bloody good forum this.

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