No boost after engine/turbo upgrade

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  • gmac78
    replied
    Originally posted by newsh
    Do you know anyone with a scope you can put on it? You can see the flywheel and hall on the same screen and see if they look correct. There's pics on here.
    No i don't think i know anyone who would have a scope, not used one of these since my college days. Would come in handy now right though!

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    3B and early UrS4 G40 Hall Sender replacement

    Originally posted by gmac78
    Hmm that would explain the kick i was experiencing. Hope you right and it's nothing more sinister. Ordered a new G40 from EFi so a waiting game now. Guess i'll whip out the distributor and strip it down in the mean time.
    You saw this:?

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  • newsh
    replied
    Do you know anyone with a scope you can put on it? You can see the flywheel and hall on the same screen and see if they look correct. There's pics on here.

    Leave a comment:


  • gmac78
    replied
    Hmm that would explain the kick i was experiencing. Hope you right and it's nothing more sinister. Ordered a new G40 from EFi so a waiting game now. Guess i'll whip out the distributor and strip it down in the mean time.

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  • newsh
    replied
    I *think* if the hall sender fails you can get one spark per revolution at TDC on no. 1

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  • gmac78
    replied
    A bit more investigative work today on the wiring side of things.

    Removed the 3 pin connector on the dizzy and ECU 55 pin socket and checked continuity on pin 8, 12, and ground, no issues found. Wiggled the cables at the dizzy and ECU end which made no difference, the readings were steady with no obvious breaks in the wire. One thing to note is the wire colours on the dizzy 3 pin connector are different to the pictures i had seen on the forum but they were for ABY with the hall sensor mounted differently.

    With a DVM across pin 1 and 3 with ignition on i was seeing 4.99v

    With a DVM across pin 1 and 2 with ignition on i was getting 4.85V

    The pins in the ECU 55 pin connector were found to be clipped in tight so no issues that end.

    Timing checked, all spot on as far as i can see.

    Then i went for the first start of the day only to find it won't even start, just turns over for a few seconds and then does a kind of kick. At first i thought the battery was going flat so turned it over again. Same again, spun over then kicked. Tried several more times, same result. Disconnected the 3 pin connector on the dizzy and spun the engine over. Spins no bother with no kicks??

    Reconnected the dizzy connector and went for another start, same again, spinning over then a kick.

    Can anyone explain the kick? Does this sounds like the hall sensor has completely failed? No codes apart from the normal G28 when the car is off.

    Regards
    Gordon

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    AAN ECU pin-out info with hyperlinks plus ABY pin-out

    Originally posted by twoqu
    As Alex has suggested, check the relevant pin in the ecu connector as sometimes they can be pushed out when reconnecting ecu's.
    Pins 8 and 12 http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21009.phtml

    Removing/checking ECU pins: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/212815.phtml

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  • newsh
    replied
    Ok cool, well I'd just give the timing a quick check anyway just in case it's "settled" since the cam belt job.

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  • gmac78
    replied
    The dizzy was upgraded to the metal one when i very first got the car so should be ok. It looked good when it went back in recently. Good shout though!! That was my S2 ownership first problem.

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  • newsh
    replied
    Could be the dizzy gear, is it a brass one?

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  • twoqu
    replied
    As Alex has suggested, check the relevant pin in the ecu connector as sometimes they can be pushed out when reconnecting ecu's.

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  • gmac78
    replied
    Whats the deal with these sensors, wheres the best place to buy a 3B one? Best stock up just in case!! Hopefully a loose connection somewhere though, WG spring pressure is just not enough to arouse the senses!!

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  • Error404
    replied
    Sounds like a poor connection if the fault is showing an intermittent short

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  • gmac78
    replied
    Yeh i see what you mean, i bought the TS chips from a forum member who used them with the R201 change so should be ok. I guess sensors do fail, just strange when it happened. I don't think software alone would trigger that fault code though?

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  • twoqu
    replied
    Sounds like the V Stream is for RS2 with the resistor change. However you will have the opposite problem if the other TS chips are not also RS2 based if you see what I mean. If you have changed the resistor it will be incorrect.

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