Blimey!
Just got back from a couple of days away on a course with work, so much to read!!
Doug,
Basically I removed all of the original breather pipes and hoses from the
engine and I mounted the Mocal unit on the strut brace bar. The Mocal has two
inlets and I connected one of these to the main breather outlet on the left
side of the block (looking forwards). The other I connected to the rear of
the cam cover, the one to connect to here is the smaller one that is lower down on the cam covers rear, as this
carries the crankcase pressure, the top one is just a transfer pipe to carry the crank fumes to the front of the engine for ingestion by the inlet, in the OEM configuration.
As I found that there was quite a bit of oil being 'puked' up into the can, I therefore decided to replace the cans drain plug with another line that travels down to a modified sump plug to drain the oil back to the sump. It is important that the oil drains back to the sump below the oil level as if it is not, crankcase pressure will also travel up this hose and the oil will not drain back while the motor is running.
Additionally the cap that comes fitted the Mocal is breathable to allow the fumes to exit the system, this is obviously absolutely essential.
I found that these were entering the car from the engine bay via the ventilation system so I replaced the cap with an adapter and connected it to a hose that vents the fumes to atmosphere through the inner wing to the wheel arch through a small K&N type filter, this is hidden by the wheel arch liner. This solution I am told is legal but you may want to divert the fumes after separation to the intake boot as in OEM configuration to be disposed of by ingesting into the inlet. If you decide that this is the way you want to do it, it would be better to use the cyclone type separator as this uses a centrifugal type action to separate the fumes from any oil, but be aware that these fumes will still carry suspended oil droplets in them and the only way to ensure a CLEAN inlet charge is to vent to atmosphere, or to the exhaust downpipe like Bigtoe has posted, that looks interesting but I have'nt had a chance to read it properly yet as I have only just sat down at the PC.
I used all aeroquip type fittings and stainless braid hoses on the installation, but thats just because I'm a tart for shiny things.
You could of course use normal type hoses with no loss of performance as the system is basically low pressure and it would also be much cheaper to do that way.
Cheers Mark.
Just got back from a couple of days away on a course with work, so much to read!!
Doug,
Basically I removed all of the original breather pipes and hoses from the
engine and I mounted the Mocal unit on the strut brace bar. The Mocal has two
inlets and I connected one of these to the main breather outlet on the left
side of the block (looking forwards). The other I connected to the rear of
the cam cover, the one to connect to here is the smaller one that is lower down on the cam covers rear, as this
carries the crankcase pressure, the top one is just a transfer pipe to carry the crank fumes to the front of the engine for ingestion by the inlet, in the OEM configuration.
As I found that there was quite a bit of oil being 'puked' up into the can, I therefore decided to replace the cans drain plug with another line that travels down to a modified sump plug to drain the oil back to the sump. It is important that the oil drains back to the sump below the oil level as if it is not, crankcase pressure will also travel up this hose and the oil will not drain back while the motor is running.
Additionally the cap that comes fitted the Mocal is breathable to allow the fumes to exit the system, this is obviously absolutely essential.
I found that these were entering the car from the engine bay via the ventilation system so I replaced the cap with an adapter and connected it to a hose that vents the fumes to atmosphere through the inner wing to the wheel arch through a small K&N type filter, this is hidden by the wheel arch liner. This solution I am told is legal but you may want to divert the fumes after separation to the intake boot as in OEM configuration to be disposed of by ingesting into the inlet. If you decide that this is the way you want to do it, it would be better to use the cyclone type separator as this uses a centrifugal type action to separate the fumes from any oil, but be aware that these fumes will still carry suspended oil droplets in them and the only way to ensure a CLEAN inlet charge is to vent to atmosphere, or to the exhaust downpipe like Bigtoe has posted, that looks interesting but I have'nt had a chance to read it properly yet as I have only just sat down at the PC.
I used all aeroquip type fittings and stainless braid hoses on the installation, but thats just because I'm a tart for shiny things.
You could of course use normal type hoses with no loss of performance as the system is basically low pressure and it would also be much cheaper to do that way.
Cheers Mark.
:confused: 
.
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