Originally posted by dragonlfc
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S6 Suspension overhaul.
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Originally posted by Wrath View PostI think I have that tube tool in my garage, never used or Maybe used ones when i dimantled The original shocks and with my bilstein i will never need it, 10 quid + parcel and its yours, its not OEM but it should work...96 URS6 plus speck saloon
96 URS6 plus speck estate
94 2.6 80 Avant
99 2.8 final edition Cabriolet
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The brand is from a local carparts store er have in Sweden, its like wallmart/homedepot, basicilly its just a metall tubing..1995 Audi S6 - AAN (~350hp)
2008 BMW 530xd (235hp)
2008 Hyundai i30 - 1.6 CRDI (89hp)
2011 KTM 990 SMR - custom tuned (120whp)
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C4 front strut insert replacement DIY
Originally posted by Vorsprung durch Technik View PostHi Wrath,thanks for your offer that's much appreciated.Can i let your know tomorrow. What make is yours,Hazet plus others i can't think of?
C4 Strut cartridge/insert replacement by Zwoobah (an Audi enthusiast):
"1. Jack up car, remove wheels (Edit: loosen nuts with wheels on ground?)
2. place jack under front control arm, and raise it to relieve the tension on the spring.
3. remove center nut on top of upper strut mount, which holds the shock shaft. remove 3 17mm inner nuts which hold the upper strut mount to the lower mount (the outer 3 13mm nuts do not get removed). gently lower jack, allowing spring to fully extend
4. use a big-*** pipe ("Stilson") wrench or the audi special tool to remove the nut holding the shock inside the strut. remove upper strut mount, metal cap below upper strut mount (on shock shaft), and shock (with the nut that holds it in)
5. use two spring compressors to compress the spring as much as possible. now, the strut and spring will hang down *just* enough that you can get your fingers up in there, and manipulate the lower strut mount to get the bearing out from below. remove bearing, noting that the little "tab" that indicates the direction it should be mounted is closest to the engine bay
6. slip the new bearings in place. make sure to get the semicicrular relief cutouts properly aligned so that they match up with the studs that hold the upper mount in place (this will be pretty clear when you do it, a little hard to imagine though)
7. remove spring compressors, making sure the bearing stays properly located and that the spring is located correctly under the upper mount
8. place jack under control arm, raise until strut is vertical under top opening, so you can install the new shocks. install shocks, and metal cap on top of shock shaft, and slide the big strut cap nut down the shaft so you can tighten it later.
9. install new upper strut mounts. put the 17mm nuts on the 3 studs first, then tighten the center 22mm nut, then re-tighten the 3 17mm. attempt to get camber settings similar to old settings when you tighten these bolts.
10. lower jack, allowing the spring to extend again. use big-*** pipe wrench through the spring coils to tighten the strut cap nut. reinstall the rubber dust boot over the lower plastic lip that holds it. check that everything is aligned. reinstall plastic dust caps in engine bay. done"RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
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Originally posted by UrS4boy View PostMark: I have no idea why you have rejected the "Stilson" pipe wrench solution.
96 URS6 plus speck saloon
96 URS6 plus speck estate
94 2.6 80 Avant
99 2.8 final edition Cabriolet
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Many thanks for your offer Wrath of a tool and ordinarily i would have snatched you hand off but this afternoon i got luckyish and won a genuine Audi 2069 A tool i have known about for several days. Thanks again Wrath.96 URS6 plus speck saloon
96 URS6 plus speck estate
94 2.6 80 Avant
99 2.8 final edition Cabriolet
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Originally posted by UrS4boy View PostMark: I have no idea why you have rejected the "Stilson" pipe wrench solution. It is almost beautiful in the way it works so well. Plus you can do other things with it. In the time you have spent looking for the "proper" wrench, you could have replaced both strut inserts using the Stilson.
C4 Strut cartridge/insert replacement by Zwoobah (an Audi enthusiast):
"1. Jack up car, remove wheels (Edit: loosen nuts with wheels on ground?)
2. place jack under front control arm, and raise it to relieve the tension on the spring.
3. remove center nut on top of upper strut mount, which holds the shock shaft. remove 3 17mm inner nuts which hold the upper strut mount to the lower mount (the outer 3 13mm nuts do not get removed). gently lower jack, allowing spring to fully extend
4. use a big-*** pipe ("Stilson") wrench or the audi special tool to remove the nut holding the shock inside the strut. remove upper strut mount, metal cap below upper strut mount (on shock shaft), and shock (with the nut that holds it in)
5. use two spring compressors to compress the spring as much as possible. now, the strut and spring will hang down *just* enough that you can get your fingers up in there, and manipulate the lower strut mount to get the bearing out from below. remove bearing, noting that the little "tab" that indicates the direction it should be mounted is closest to the engine bay
6. slip the new bearings in place. make sure to get the semicicrular relief cutouts properly aligned so that they match up with the studs that hold the upper mount in place (this will be pretty clear when you do it, a little hard to imagine though)
7. remove spring compressors, making sure the bearing stays properly located and that the spring is located correctly under the upper mount
8. place jack under control arm, raise until strut is vertical under top opening, so you can install the new shocks. install shocks, and metal cap on top of shock shaft, and slide the big strut cap nut down the shaft so you can tighten it later.
9. install new upper strut mounts. put the 17mm nuts on the 3 studs first, then tighten the center 22mm nut, then re-tighten the 3 17mm. attempt to get camber settings similar to old settings when you tighten these bolts.
10. lower jack, allowing the spring to extend again. use big-*** pipe wrench through the spring coils to tighten the strut cap nut. reinstall the rubber dust boot over the lower plastic lip that holds it. check that everything is aligned. reinstall plastic dust caps in engine bay. done"
With the proper tool you could have changed both front shockers and cooked a sunday dinner in that time,it really is a sub 5 minute job (unless the shocker is seized into the strut housing then an engine crane attached to the top of the shocker might be needed to dislodge it,the car sometimes lifts off the ground if its seized really badly)
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