A little something else to keep me busy.

[Tractor Dave]

Ok, cheers. I had the seal already. Just need to look for the seal ring now

[Tractor Dave]

So the sealing ring turned up. Looks very good quality. I'm not sure if it's a pucker Audi one as it has the part number on it. All fitted up well but there is an issue. The two sump screw holes are m8 where as the original is m6. Just wondering the best way around this? Drill the two sump holes to m8 and fit two m8 screws or put an m6 helicoil in.
I can't send it back as I've fitted it.




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[B5NUT]

I would do the helicoil rather than modify the sump.

I did an etka search on the seal part number, it's a VW only part it was never fitted to Audi's. The Audi part number of the seal for the A4 is 028103171B.



Did you fit the gasket as well, cannot tell from the picture.

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks for the info. That's very interesting as I took the part number off the old one and ordered from that. The old housing has got the m6 screw holes. The seal is part of the housing which comes with a plastic fitting ring.
Now I don't think I can fit a helicoil as the hole is too big. A thread converter would work but I would need to pull the freshly sealed sump off again! I think I will just open out the hole a little to accept an m8 screw

[Tractor Dave]

And I double checked the ebay listing and my engine is on the list. I've contacted the seller. I've since discovered early versions have 6mm screw holes.

[K Simmonds]

What a faff, how bloody irritating.

I'd just open up the holes to 8mm and forget it ever happen if you can't get a hellicoil to work.

All the ones I've done have been earlier or much later, the earlier ones have a seal that can be swapped and the later ones all come as one piece.

[B5NUT]

The separate seal is listed as NLA, and was replaced with the one piece seal looking at ETKA. You can buy an 028103171B ELRING seal for around the £20-£25 mark.

[Tractor Dave]

I have a spare sump is the drilling doesn't go to plan

[K Simmonds]

I don't see why drilling the holes out should go wrong as long as you using a nice sharp bit... Unless of course you have a fit of some sort.

I've encountered those two bolts missing on a couple of cars I've worked on as they're pain to get back in with the gearbox in situ and whoever had been in there previously had either given up or forgotten to put them back.

[K Simmonds]

The separate seal is listed as NLA, and was replaced with the one piece seal looking at ETKA. You can buy an 028103171B ELRING seal for around the £20-£25 mark.

I seem to recall I purchased an Elring seal when I did the clutch on my C4 Avant, I got one for about £15, though that was a couple of years ago.

[Tractor Dave]

My only reservation 're drilling is if the m8 hex screw head will have space between the bell housing and engine when back together. I might just order the correct one. I'm not in a hurry. Just having a coffee before heading out to the barn for a look. Also not sure if I have a couple of M8 hex head screws the right size.

[newsh]

You could use small head M8s or Allen bolts?

[K Simmonds]

A cap head M8 Allen bolt should fit okay, I'm sure I could find you a couple the right length if your stuck... It would pain me having to do it again, size things up I guess.

[Tractor Dave]

I will have a rummage about. Thanks for the offer though.

[Tractor Dave]

So I found two m8 allen bolts. I had a good look and I am concerned about their proximity to the fly wheel. I have a solid fly wheel conversion on the new engine (done less than 1k ago) and it doesn't have the cut outs to access these two Allen bolts. There is very little space at the back of the fly wheel and I think the bigger m8 bolts might make contact.
So, wanting to do the job properly, I ordered the correct seal.
Third time lucky I guess
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELRING-OE...edirect=mobile