A little something else to keep me busy.

[John.]

It's a good old lump alright but changing a water pump with the front end still on takes the best part of a day which is totally insane... I can do one on a transverse 1.8T, which entails also changing the cambelt in under three hours, or on a MK2 Golf GTi without PAS in about half an hour.

Edit.... Though to be fair the pumps are highly reliable.

Similar to the old oil burners too, I replaced what I think was the original in mine after 25+ years and 200k+ miles.

[Tractor Dave]

The pump is marked 2004 so probably fitted at first cam belt change. Still seems in good condition but new SKF one now in its place.

[K Simmonds]

Similar to the old oil burners too, I replaced what I think was the original in mine after 25+ years and 200k+ miles.

Yeah, the old 1.9 TDi's shared the same basic block casting, fair play to VAG they got their moneys worth from that design.

The water pump on these isn't a service item as per the cambelt driven ones and they do tend to be good for about 200K miles if not more but if the old one was marked 2004 and is an unknown quantity then fitting a new one whilst your at it makes sense even if it took hours.

Having to change it with the front end still on is really time consuming and annoying, I've only ever had to one though, thankfully.

[Tractor Dave]

I got another couple of hours on the car this afternoon.
This rear cover was split so I got the soldering iron out.




The connector on the throttle body is broken so I swapped it over from the original engine.


And the sensor connectors on the oil cooler are different. Swapped them over too.


Now I can't remember where this connects. It's the big thick wire that comes off the back of the alternator and ends near the bell housing.


Getting there slowly.



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[K Simmonds]

Now I can't remember where this connects. It's the big thick wire that comes off the back of the alternator and ends near the bell housing.

Starter motor...

[Tractor Dave]

Starter motor...

Fantastic

[mdz]

Now I can't remember where this connects. It's the big thick wire that comes off the back of the alternator and ends near the bell housing.




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There's thick wire that connects alternator with starter motor and goes around at the back of the engine.

edit: a bit late

[Tractor Dave]

Of course. Thanks.

[Tractor Dave]

So everything came together nicely.
I had to stop when I saw this.


It's aluminium particles in the boost hoses. So everything had to be cleaned out before putting together.
Intercooler and pipes given a deep clean.


And the link pipe on the front cross member.


While there I flushed the radiator.


And found some rust. This is an obvious mud trap. The drain holes are very small and were blocked.



So we got the Fertan out.


Lunchtime then walkies


And after lunch I was about to re fit the front crossmember when I found these damaged wires. The clips that hold them away from the fan had rusted out.


So fixed the wires then drilled a couple of small holes to take a cable tie.


Then on.


Some cheap oil and anti freeze to get me started. They will both be changed after a few runs.




Then I re connected the battery ……… and turned the key ………………..

She runs. A bit tappety but this cleared after a few minutes. I was just warming her up to bleed the coolant when there was a pop from the back of the engine and hot water explosion. This sensor had popped out. Now, I can't see the retaining clip anywhere so not sure if there was one. Anyway, time for dinner and a beer now.



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[K Simmonds]

Great to hear it's running!

Motors that have been stood for a good while almost always sound pretty noisy from the top end for a couple of minuets until the lifters all pressurise..

I think that sender is held into a flange with a light green metal spring clip, which I'm guessing is absent. Should be easy enough to sort if you can get at it okay and have a clip from the other motor you can borrow.

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers Kit. I'm well chuffed it runs. Now I do have that clip off the other engine so it will go on tomorrow. Just a bit concerned as I don't remember it not being there . Also got a front outer cv boot to change before we go for a spin

[Tractor Dave]

Sensor back in with clip and holding well. I ran the engine up to temp and bled the system. Only problem is temp gauge isn't moving and fan didn't come on. Maybe it wasn't got enough to run the fan but I need to investigate why my temp gauge isn't working. And the heater fan in cabin is dead.

[Tractor Dave]

So forgot I have a viscous fan so maybe now just faulty gauge. Does the electric fan kick it at high temps without aircon on?
Just doing cv boot so getting greasy

[david1980]

From memory as its been at least 10yrs since I messed with a few of these

As you've found there is that metal clip to hold the sensor in. I know my friend had a lot of issues with finding the right sensor for the temp gauge on his one, could never get the gauge to read well. Same when he had a passat but that was worse and I don't think he ever got the temp gauge on it before another member on here had the car for an engine swap into his project.

At least the heater fan is easy to get to once the glovebox is out the way. Is this a climatronic/digital setup or the dials?

[newsh]

Seem to remember Yann had a little fan perched on the dash, maybe blower fan wasn't working?