Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V - Czech Republic

[Tom_]

Thanks, appreciate that...Can't wait when ECU will be plugged in the car

[Tom_]

I start with removing the old steering rack. Not sure if i will go the route of refurbing the stock one or buying some aftermarket one. Honestly, don't know about the quality of aftermarket steering racks.
Everything goes smoothly except for two hexagon bolts from the wheel arch side. One is already brake and to the second I have to remove the suspension strut pipe.
So far it's really a pain in the ***... These parts are like 33 years old, so I am not surprised that it won't come out nicely, but its really discouraging to solving things like these

[_ShurikeN]

Steering rack change on these cars with ABS and brake booster is the most difficult job for me.

[K Simmonds]

Changing the rack on a RHD car is pretty easy, I did my S2 in about three hours, with lots of cuts and grazes on my hand's.

I don't know what it's like for you guys as I never had to change one on a LHD car.

Getting a rack rebuilt is quite possible, just have to find a decent company to do it. You can do it yourself but it's very difficult without certain tools so not a job I've tackled. The was a member on here who did them really well for about £180 tops, I still have the one he did for my S2 as a spare for my RS2. He doesn't do them any longer unfortunately.

If you want to save money and time try and find a rack from a late V6 Cab, they made them up until 1999/2000 and it's possible to pick one up for reasonable money.... Well it was over here a few years ago not sure what it's like for you guy over there.

Your doing a great job Tom all looks very tidy to me, you won't need a Aux rad with that large alloy one you've got, that'll keep the engine at the right temp just fine.

I had a very similar one on my RS2+ spec S2 and I never had problems with it over heating, that got driven really hard as as well, often saw oil temps well over 110C but the coolant stayed at a right temp.

[Tom_]

Thanks, Kit, honestly I would rather pass these jobs and have it already ready, but this ain't gonna happen. I will look on that cab steering rack, but I am not sure if there will be some major changes needed, like steering column tube , etc... It would be lovely to have more sharp steering as I have to remove the steering rack either and refurb the old one or buy another and refurb it as wel.
There is a ton of part numbers in ETKA for these steering racks Even 6 cylinder has around 4 or 5 p/ns .

[B5NUT]

Sorry removed

[Tom_]

Nice job, but maybe you post this in incorrect topic?

[B5NUT]

[Tom_]

No worries

[K Simmonds]

Perhaps I just got lucky as the 1996 2.6 V6 rack I fitted went straight into my 3B no problem at all, the splines were the same pattern and it went in like I was fitting my rack again.

The 1998 one I picked came from the now defunct breaker 'Audi Bits' and to be honest I can't recall what car it actually came from, just know it was a 98 Cab of some sort. Though if I had to guess I'd say it came from a 2.8 V6 model, the spline pattern it is identical to the one I used from a 96 car, anyway got them both stored away as at some point finding a new rack is going to be hard.

[Tom_]

Finally, I removed the steering rack, and one bolt from the wheel arch brake and I was worried about the second one but used a lot of WD40, some heat and that one goes nicely. The steering rack doesn't looks nice on the surface, but inside the rubber cover, there is no leak of fluid. So it looks like it doesn't leak at all. Even the piston rod looks nice, with no scratches.
What do you think? Proceed to refurb this one or buy another old one with a newer hose-style mount or buy an aftermarket, as these are also refurbed.
Also have new rack damper and ordered new steering tie rods, as there are lot of lengths, which are the correct ones? I can't measure it right now.

[B5NUT]

Personally I would clean it up and put it back in. If you do have a rebuild kit save it for when it does leak, you may get many more years of service with it's current seals.

[Tom_]

I dont have rebuild kit. Honestly, it comes to my mind, to clean it and put it back, but maybe its worth to let this rack check and see if there isnt any issue at all. I dont want to do this ****** job anymore, so it probably kill me, to put it back and then start to leak

[Tractor Dave]

I would do as B5 suggests. If it isn't broken, don't try and fix it. New rubber gaiter and bolts it will be a doddle next time.

[Bowie69]

Correct, they are a pain to rebuild, and if anything like me, manage to ruin one it the way -the cap on the end, if the aluminium version, can be exceedingly difficult to remove as it galls up and seizes solid.