Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V - Czech Republic

[Tom_]

So my theory was right. That terminal was from fuse from the Fuse box. I am glad i found out.

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[Tom_]

I start to removing some wires from stock wiring harness. These will be reused. IT is not a 5min job. this part Will challenge myself a lot. I have to go by each wire from ECU connector and look if Its not related ONLY with ECU but with other auxiliaries. I get a list from Brent about connections from ECU. With CROSS mark, these i dont need them but with question mark, these May be needed.
I want to have everything worked, except engine obviously ?? engine wiring Will be new. IT seems that everything is somehow related with everything.

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[Tom_]

Is here anyone who switched stock ECU to aftermarket? I removed stock hydraulic booster with brake fluid level sensor over vacuuum brake booster and also switching to MaxxECU. Now i am not sure if thé autocheck system and wiring are longer needed with those changes. Also not sure if standalone ECU could manage the signal to keep autocheck working.

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[rxl]

As I remember the autocheck works but you loose the bc.

[Tom_]

Rik, I dont have a Bc. There is only autocheck. There is that connector with relay.

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[mdz]

Autocheck is spread across multiple looms, mostly on front lighting and rear loom. Brake fluid level sensor can be left disconnected, check will not trigger warning.

[Tom_]

Ok thanks. I wont reuse that wire. What about thermoswitch? Its for after run but there isnt a pump. Wasnt there. Only S2 have this after run pump. Got this information from Riho.

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[newsh]

I'm on Maxxecu (S2 3B) my autocheck all still works.

[Tom_]

I am swapping from 7A to the turbo engine, so it will be too hard to make an adapter between stock ECU and Maxx as 7A doesn't have the same functions as S2, so I decided to make a new engine harness but in the engine harness, there are still some wires for auto-check.
Does anyone know how that Thermoswitch for after-run works? It's normally open or closed?

[jbrentd]

Assuming the switch is working properly, you should be able to tell by checking continuity across the contacts at ambient conditions. I bet it's normally open. One different I noticed between the 7A and 3B, the afterrun was triggered on the positive for the 7A, but triggered on the negative for the 3B.

[Tom_]

It's a shame that this information about sensors or switches is not in the Bentley manual. Also as I removed the stock hydraulic brake booster, the stock hydraulic fluid level switch and hydraulic brake pressure switch are not needed anymore, should be NC (not connected) or make some type of jumper wire? I removed these wires from the stock harness just in case these have to be reused because of AutoCheck.
The brake fluid level switch is replaced by a new brake fluid reservoir with a brake booster from Phaeton, I guess this could be redone to work again.

[Tom_]

The wires are removed from the engine wiring harness. Hopefully, I don't forget anything. This section of wiring I could plug this inside the car and start working on the engine bay. Mostly grinding and preparing for the paint. I haven't decided yet if the holes after the battery tray have to weld or rather put some bondo over the welding.
Also waiting for some wire cutters and crimping tools, after that, I can start redoing the battery wiring (as there is some defect on the positive wire from the alternator). The battery will be relocated to the trunk to save some weight on the front and also the heat from the downpipe could make the battery a problem.
What do you think? Weld these small holes/dimples or rather use a bondo?
For positive and negative wires from the battery, I would like to use an 0AWG (50mm2) wire. Negative will be grounded to some chassis spot in the trunk and positive will go through the 200A or 250A battery circuit breaker (not decided yet which one).
Also, there will be a Volvo EPAS with a vacuum booster instead of a hydraulic PAS.

[Tractor Dave]

Are you going to fit a strut brace? If you are, you might as well fill those holes while you are there with your mig.

[Tom_]

Initially, I was thinking about a strut bar, but once you weld that metal, there is a bigger chance of gettin' these spots rusted. I like strut bar which are not welded but mounted on the upper mount, but Audi doesn't have a good style for that (one-nut style).

[Tractor Dave]

I had to weld mine. Use good quality zinc paint then epoxy and no rust at all.