If your looking for photos of a 7a flywheel to compare here's a couple of the 90 7A i had, might be of help.
7A flywheel Perfect.
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Hopefully it has fallen out. If there is nothing for it to hit in the Bell housing, I can't see why it would just snap off especially if you have not been doing any work on that area to have disturbed it. The only thing I could see it hitting would be the position sensor itself if just somehow moved further into the space than it should have (unlikely) or, a bolt has come loose and been bouncing around in the bellhousing... Mikes2 saw this with his s2 avant thread recently but luckily the bolt jammed at the bottom and stayed put.
Let's see those good news update pics!
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Looking through those posts, the 'pin' may well become a small piece of 6mm plate if the pin broke off rather than falling out.
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ooooh yes! Except I am away from my tools so will be fun on my back with only a handful of spanners and a mickey mouse socket set(!)
We'll get there though
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Originally posted by steve briance View Posthttps://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...eel-timing-pin
Here you go! Google audi s2 welded timing pin and pictures come up and lead me to this link. As long as you can find the point the pin has snapped off from, it looks possible to repair.
Starter out time I guess....Last edited by Bowie69; 13 May 2019, 14:50.
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Hmm, thanks Steve!
I was *hoping* the pin had fallen out, but haven't got the starter out yet to be able to see it, in which case it would be drill/tap/bolt/loctite. If half of it is still in there then that begs a whole load of other solutions...
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https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...eel-timing-pin
Here you go! Google audi s2 welded timing pin and pictures come up and lead me to this link. As long as you can find the point the pin has snapped off from, it looks possible to repair.
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On my experience of trying to drill out the longer pins on the other side - I wouldn't bother. They are incredibly hard and the machine shop who were trying to do it using Bridge port milling machines couldn't do it. I wonder whether the small timing pin may be the same...
I have seen somewhere that folks who have installed an aftermarket ecu have found the signal from the factory pin didn't show up reliably enough for the new ecu. The solution was to weld on a more substantial part for the sensor to see. No wider than the pin but just more.
I'm desparately trying to find the pic on this forum...
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OK so the rabbit hole goes deeper.... and weirder, much like Alice.
The dizzy hall sender was not responding to testing, so was replaced.
Still no start.
Removed the crank sensors, and now despite looking VERY carefully I can find no timing pin on the flywheel. Meh,
So... it will be starter out and try to fix this on my driveway, as I can't get the car up to where all my tools are.
The 7A pin, from what I can see, is a round one, and not the square block found on AAN/ABY (maybe 3B as well?), like this:
image_52498.jpg
So..... was wondering if anyone had replaced the pin by drilling and tapping the old hole out and screwing a bolt in there, with a load of loctite?
I would hope this would be a simple fix... any experiences?
Clearly the pin needs to be regular mild steel, and not stainless, other than that I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work, at the moment!
Also, anyone know what diameter/length the pin is as stock?
Thanks very much!
Peter.
Last edited by Bowie69; 13 May 2019, 14:50.
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Yeah I pin punched it and drilled it out mostly, about 75% of the way there, and then was able to knock it out.
Obviously I must've been practicing as I managed to do it without nicking the shaft or gear
Good idea on peening the end over on the roll pin, will definitely do that.
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The rivet that bosch fit is well and truly in there, getting the damned thing out certainly takes a bit of effort! if you want the roll pin to be a bit more than it's standard friction fit then you could knock the ends with a pin punch to mushroom them out a little bit
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F231318697778
I think if you order 4mm pins this should be fine - 4.4mm in relaxed form, it would need to squash down a decent amount to go through your 4.25mm hole.
I can't find my spare to measure but I'd go for '4' mm as 5mm probably won't go through the hole anyway!
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