Resurrection of my CQ20V

[Bowie69]

Also did final prep and then 2K clearcoated the gearbox, and I had just enough for the prop as well:

IMG_20201025_194715.jpg IMG_20201025_194745.jpg Monkey like shiny:

IMG_20201025_194752.jpg
This (along with the diff) is the first time I have used 2K aerosols, I have to say I am completely sold. The finish is incomparable to normal solvent based paints, and is hard and tough. It covers really well, and goes off in this slightly inclement weather, as long as you have a bit of warmth.

I'll be using them again, despite the ~£15 cost for 400ml. It goes further than solvent based paints, as there is less solvent in the can, and more paint.

[Bowie69]

Final thing I did yesterday was to take a look at the rear diff mounts, as I was getting an annoying thumping, and what felt like massive drivetrain slack, including 'surging' or kangarooing when coming on and off throttle.

Got myself under the car and took a look, the news was not good:

image_79995.jpg

and even more not good when you realise the other one was completely mullered too:

IMG_20201025_183656.jpg

So my rear diff was being held in by the rear mount, and mostly hopes and dreams. This is irritating, as I replaced them only a few years ago, and it is not like I do moon mileage.

A little while back, Alex ( Error404 ) suggested that the Porsche 930 engine mounts were a good option, and I had bought some in preparation. No connection to them, but a good seller: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174053514188 https://www.buttysbits.com/

They are , however, a slightly different shape around the backing plate, so wouldn't fit flush with the subframe. This needed rectifying with a flap wheel, some M8 bolts shoved in for alignment, and a vice:

IMG_20201025_171439.jpg
IMG_20201025_171433.jpg IMG_20201025_171429.jpg

As you can see, it is a not a huge amount to remove. There is a small bit to remove on the face as well, there is a slight cup shape formed by a press, which would stop the mount sitting flat, not huge, but should be removed as well. Sorry, no pics.

Original central M10 bolt would be no good here, the Porsche mount takes an M12 through the middle, so I needed to replace it. I had previously measured up the bolt required, and it looked like an M12x90 would be ideal, with a washer either side, and a nyloc, should get me 5mm stick out. I fitted the mounts to the car, and it did exactly that -the benefit of having the replacement diff sitting there for me to measure was a help in this case

Obviously the thump has gone entirely as you would expect, however the massive driveline shunt is also completely gone. This is good, it was making the car rather unpleasant to drive, especially round town.

Other bits done: Replaced the cap heads holding the rear anti toll bar in place with the very bolts with what looked like nordloc washers on them that came with the Porsche engine mounts. Fixed the heater fan (loose connection at the heater box for some reason?). And swapped out a rear brake caliper and hand brake cable, as it had been sticking on -glowing brake discs are not recommended.

Also swapped the headlamp bulbs out for some Philips +130, very nice indeed, waiting for the driving lamp bulbs to arrive now, too.

[Tractor Dave]

Very nice job on the diff actuator bracket. You would do well selling those.
What make of two pack aerosol are you using? I was looking at those in the Frost catalogue only last night

[Bowie69]

Thanks, I'm sure I would be able to sell them, but then where is the fun in that

I used MIPA stuff I got off ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173874784968

This was one of the cheaper ones, but a good make from what I can work out.

Beware, there are some aerosols out there claiming to be 2K, when in fact, they can't possibly be, as there is no way of mixing the two parts(!).

[John.]

Liking your Porsche mount upgrade, nice write-up

[Lago Blue]

Wow! An clever piece of bracketry, that! I do recall reading somewhere "One should never doubt what a determined man can do with some hammering."

[Bowie69]

Cheers Lago. Very therapeutic to be honest, and very satisfying.

[Bowie69]

Four new Goodyear tyres put on this morning, then Monday, it is going in for its stainless exhaust fabrication...... collecting it on Tuesday evening.

Pics to follow next week.

Then, in the following weeks, the plan is to pull it all apart and slap the new gearbox and rear diff in, and give the rear subframe a bit of rust repair and treatment -it is not that bad, I had it off at the very first part of the resurrection, and there were just a couple of small holes in it, I was without my welder, so I had it blasted, and ZG-90'd, which seems to have held up quite well, so will repair and repaint , hopefully assembling the whole lot on the floor and lifting it up into place in one lump.

Then a serious alignment session (!)

[Bowie69]

On a similar note, trying to get good, sticky tyres in 205/60/15 is really difficult nowadays, they are all eco-biased, which is a shame. I normally run Nexen eco blue or something, but fancied something different this time, so instead of £83, the Goodyears were £113 fitted.

So far, much quieter than the old ones, and what feels like a softer sidewall, but will see how they fare in the long run

[Bowie69]

Ok, a question for the more learned guys, I want to buy a spigot bearing so I can replace it when I have the box out.

Part number I have is: 034105276B

However, finding one seems nigh on impossible, do any of you have a good source for these, or know of the equivalent timken/similar quality bearing?

Thanks

[Error404]

I think I still have a couple... need to check tomorrow.

Nice job on the 930 mounts
For anyone else intersted I have these pre-modified, ready to fit on the shelf

[Bowie69]

Aha, thanks Alex, if you have, that's be great!

I've found them on tradition, but postages kills that, as I don't have anything else to get from there at the moment.

930 mounts are great, no regrets! I assume they can be fitted at the gearbox end as well?

[Bowie69]

So a small update....


Today I picked my car up from a garage (aside from MOT tests, this is literally the first time I have used a garage to do any work on any of my cars for about 15 years), where it had had a complete ( manifold-back) stainless exhaust system fabricated for it. I'm quite pleased with it, definitely more sporty than stock, but quieter than the old one with no baffles left in the middle box....

Somehow, I managed not to get any pictures of it (bar one, see if you can spot it in the following posts ) , but suffice to say it looks very nice in person, and at cruise it no longer bellows round the cabin on the motorway, so all good

I will get some photos over the weekend, assuming the weather is ok.

[Bowie69]

So.... literally half an hour after getting the car back to the workshop, I started work pulling bits of it apart, in about an hour, we had this:

IMG_20201113_145648.jpg
You can see the Whiteline ARB , and the Porsche 930 mounts quite clearly (the only two clean bits(!))

Subframe and wishbones are fully polybushed, and they are in great shape, the subframe itself is a little crusty, I had it blasted about 6 years ago , and painted it with not-quite-enough zinc paint, though it has held up quite well really. There's a small hole in one of the bits of webbing supporting the rear diff bush, and a small crack near it as well. The subframe will get repaired, blasted, and then coated with Bilt Hamber 'Electrox', which is 93% zinc, then top coated. I would like to see it try to rust then.

Little time later, we had this:

IMG_20201113_152410.jpg ...and this:

IMG_20201113_152427.jpg The diff actuator bracket looks surprisingly good, so will go with the diff, when/if I sell it.

Plan is to get the subframe cleaned up, painted, and refitted, and anything else I may want to pain along the way. I am resisting doing the struts, as they looks really quite crusty, and I want to knock this and the gearbox out within the next couple of weeks, assuming everything comes together correctly.

I am going to try the stock rubber rear diff mount, and see how it fairs, the one that can with my replacement diff was pretty new, so thought I would try it. Never regretted polybushing the rear diff, but I know some think it too harsh, so I am experimenting.

Also, having said these diffs are black from factory, mine isn't! The replacement was painted back even on the inside, so not sure what changed, was even from the same age CQ20V.

More to come after the weekend, for sure.

[Bowie69]

So, time to look at the rear subframe corrosion.... After a pressure wash to remove the thin film of dried mud (I live in the country...) I had a prod and a poke, and then whipped out the angel grinder to allow me access to the bits I needed. This is probably all very familiar rust spots for a lot of people, but will reprise them here anyway.... I will say, I had this off about 6 years ago, and had it blasted, and I treated it with (not enough) ZG-90 paint (I was poor at the time!). I will say it did a pretty good job, compared to a lot I have seen on here, the rust is not that bad. I'll also admit to not having my welder at the time, so all the rust spots you see here were there then, I just couldn't fix them. The ZG-90 definitely helped, you could see the physical layer of zinc when you wire brushed it down.

So, to the rust....

Rusty hole one:

IMG_20201115_152848.jpg

After slitting the bottom welds, I scored the corner so as to bend it bad more easily, and hopefully not distort the bend too much, after I will run a bead of weld down it.

Rusty hole two:

IMG_20201115_153106.jpg

Not too bad this side, though, there was a drainage slot at the bottom of the closing panel, on the other side this didn't exist.

Some time later, with a finger sander:

IMG_20201115_160849.jpg

Meh, another hole I hadn't really seen.... Oh well, I have gas, steel and a welder.

IMG_20201115_160852.jpg

Repair patches were made, and let in flush, then ground flush, uprights folded back and welded into place, leaving something a lot stronger, even if it is not my best efforts at welding:

IMG_20201115_175819.jpg

On the other side, there was a small hole, I clamped a copper welding spoon behind it, and filled it with lead, I mean weld. #timesaver :

IMG_20201115_175835.jpg


Then came the anti-roll bar mounts.... not too good. After some poking and finger sander action:

IMG_20201115_181255.jpg

IMG_20201115_181250.jpg


Then some small patches let in and ground flat:

IMG_20201115_182449.jpg

IMG_20201115_191518.jpg
IMG_20201115_183520.jpg

....and now it looks like this:

IMG_20201115_193635.jpg

Subframe will get blasted, and then treated to some very special paint so I never have to do this again.


Also cleaned up some other parts for some new paint, these were painted before, but needed a touch up, especially against what will be a spangly new subframe.

IMG_20201115_193652.jpg

Will get new boots, but the bushes and joints (original) are absolutely fine, adjusters too (I copper slipped everything when I put it back together last time).


Depending on weather, I may get the gearbox out this coming weekend, just want dry, I don't mind cold, but cold+wet is miserable, and yes, all this is happening outdoors, no heated garage for me.