Resurrection of my CQ20V

[Bowie69]

Will keep you updated !

[Bowie69]

So yesterday afternoon was supposed to be very soggy, so rushed out just after 1pm (had other commitments in the morning) and got cracking.

It is amazing how quick this stuff comes apart....

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My DIY crank lock tool engaged.... and HEAVE..... 3/4" long bar and it finally moved, boy did the bar bend though!

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Out it comes.... lock tool out and undo the four allen bolts... and the signs are I was right:

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That light brown powder is probably oxalic acid remains, from the coolant flush I did when replacing the radiator.

Oh well, keep digging... upper and lower cover off, gives me a sneak peak of what is going on with the water pump:

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Mmmmm.... crusty (jugglers)....

More digging, rear cover off and ....

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All that crust on the block can only be one thing in my mind, the seal on the pump shaft is gone, and coolant is getting picked up on the belt, and flung behind the cover. The staining behind the pump pulley seems to corroborate this.

Time to get the rest of it off...

More of the pump:

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Interesting that the belt was running right on the edge of the pump, not sure why/is this normal? Dolz pump.


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I know these engines like to rev, and I like to rev it, but is that enough to create cavitation, or are these marks from the original casting?


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Will compare to the SKF/QH pumps when they arrive.

The belt was not in terrible condition, but was showing some wear, 7 years and probably 50-60K miles:

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Most obvious wear on the (inner, I think) edge:

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Will clean up the steel crank pullet and make sure there's no abrasive rust on it.

A couple of small lever bars and the idler (also on order) popped off the oil pump housing, was quite easy to shift, anything more then uber gentle and I would have gone with a 3-leg puller:

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Bearing felt fine, but sure a new one will be peace of mind.

Note the grease on the crank, that's just to protect from the weather, it is outside for all this! Also to note the cam seal is weeping a little, one on order.

Will do a quick clean up when this all goes back together, but not looking for spotless as the engine will be getting a rebuild at some point.

Thoughts on anything gratefully received!

[K Simmonds]

I've found the belt on all the I5's tends to want to run about as far forward as I'm comfortable with. The edge of that one doesn't look very good, is there any play in the pump? As a tiny amount can cause that sort of wear due to the pully being ever so slightly on the piss the whole time. Great photo's and write up by the way!

[Bowie69]

No play in the pump at all, turns smoothly, but the leaks are not good...

Idler has tiny amount of play, but seem to remember it had that when fitted! INA branded.

[Bowie69]

QH on left, SKF on right:

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QH on top, SKF on bottom:

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One blemish on the QH pump, someone misplaced it in the jig, I think, perhaps just for the cleanup pass:

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Looking again, looks like it may have been dropped on that corner as well.....

[Bowie69]

Other thoughts:

• Bearings feel identical, though hard to know longevity
• The impellers are quite different design, any experts able to tell me what's what?
• Greater material thickness around slotted mounting holes on the SKF.
• Casting sand used for QH seems finder than SKF.
• Slightly better cleanup on the QH pulley, SKF has slight sharp edges around the teeth extremities, QH is chamfered.
• Tell tale hole in completely different place?
• Machining on the SKF pump very slightly less chattery in some places.
• Comparable money to buy.

If it weren't for the QH pump being dropped I'd happily fit that one, as it has, the SKF will go in.

[steve briance]

(i think based on pure marketing and brand snobbery) i fitted skf 3 years ago when i put my engine back together.

No leaks so far but only 20k miles.

I don't remember the skf pulley being that domed though, is there space for it behind the cover?

[Bowie69]

Just 1mm taller than the QH, believe it or not. Will find out when I get it fitted, I guess.

The belt-running face is slightly wider on the QH, again, 1mm or maybe a bit more.

Meant to say, where the QH one was dropped, it has left a raised part on the mounting face, suspect it would file very easily to shape, and is not critical for sealing (apart from not generating a gap!) so would be fine.

Also meant to say, the pump from Amazon (SKF) arrived from 'SKF aftermarket UK' or similar, so strongly suspect it is SKF itself!

[Bowie69]

Well today went essentially as planned, all buttoned up and back on the road!

Couple of things -I think the SKF and the DOLZ pump are absolutely identical, same factory, nothing in it, even the numbers stamped in the end of the impeller shaft are the same! So.... let's hope I get more than 7 years out of this one!

The front face of the block was not completely smooth unfortunately, there has been some corrosion in the past, and I had to do what I did last time an put a thin layer of silicone sealant on it before fitting the pump. After getting the backing plate on, the camshaft sprocket and a few other things I realised that while I had siliconed it, the o-ring for the pump was still in the box(!) Off it came and refitted, doh

Camshaft oil seal came out with one of my new Teng seal picks, very nice, and new one drifted in with 1 5/16" socket. And got most of the rest slapped together.

One thing noticed was the belt seems to run more centrally on the pulley than before:

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This was after running it up with the covers off:

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Everything got a good degrease/clean during assembly.

Just before the bumper/radiator went back on:

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You will see the new PAS belt, that was because the old one looked like this:

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Think I got my money's worth

You'll also see the two grommets from the plastic belt cover, I have replaced these, and was going to replace the nuts that hold it on, but they only arrived with today's post, about 1pm, so will have to be another time.

Very glad this is done, and NO MORE LEAKS PLEASE! Have gone with Febi G13 compatible coolant, which is significantly cheaper, but still rather not empty it all on the ground again.

Have to say, I'm much more familiar with removing the front end of the car these days, it really isn't that bad a job, and kudos has to go to Audi for some of the design/engineering around it, it does make servicing the vehicle pretty simple, assuming all the fasteners stay in one piece!

[K Simmonds]

You certainly got your money’s worth out of the PAS belt! Glad the job went smoothly for you, as you say they’re really not that bad at all to do the job on, as long as you’ve got the correct tools for dealing the crank bolt.

[Bowie69]

Yep, 3/4" 1200mm bar, me standing on it = torqued 
Boy does it bend....

[John.]

That's good the belt runs more central, mine is like yours was ...on the edge!
What colour is the Febi antifreeze ?

[Bowie69]

Pink, rated G13.

5l for ~£35

[John.]

Pink, rated G13.

5l for ~£35

cheers

[K Simmonds]

Yep, 3/4" 1200mm bar, me standing on it = torqued 
Boy does it bend....

Ha ha, what we call in the trade FT, = F'in tight!

Interesting that the belt is now more central on the pully's, which is a good thing IMO, so the either the pump or possibly the idle roller were causing it run right on the edge, though my money would be on the pump as it doubles as the tensioner. As I mentioned they always seem to run towards the front of the pully's but yours was previously right on the edge!