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Knowledgable peeps.... the CV joint spline tool, could someone confirm it is triple square M8/8mm ?
Mine is a little worn out and would like to replace with one good one, rather than a whole set of substandard ones.
Any recommendations also welcome
Thanks
It's called multi spline. I thought my front were m10. I have a set, think I got it in screwfix. Not expensive and lasting fine. I think they are Teng.
I'm sure more expensive makes would be longer lasting but these are fine for my needs.
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
PAS pipe arrived (thanks Mike!), as has PAS fluid, CV bolts and new seal for thermostat.
Radiator, gear oil and spline bit arriving tomorrow, and in even better news, Eurocarparts said to just take the incorrect radiator back one of their stores for a refund, excellent
Hoses.... im going to replace the thermostat to rail with silicone, however the others are going to wait, will have to bodge, I mean be creative with the one that looks very close to failure...
Perhaps will get this all back together on Friday, will see, quite a bit of work.... apologies if I don't get snaps of stuff!
Started at ~8am and worked until 3, at a pretty good pace, no great troubles this time (like incorrect parts...).
First job was to reattach the LH gearbox mount, fill it with oil, and refit the drive shaft, all went to plan, always nice using new fasteners, as well as new tools:
This seemed like good value to me, impact rated so likely a bit harder than my original tools, and has a nice slim bit, meaning the CV boot won't get in the way as much....Screenshot 2022-03-04 at 21.24.06.jpg
Also picked up an impact rated wobble/universal ball joint, I figured this would allow me much better access to getting things done up.
Both worked very well, was able to use a 1/2" ratchet through the driveshaft hole (shield removed) to do them all up very quickly.
So that was first job off the list.... reason for all that was to get the speedo working again after nearly a year(!)
On a test drive later it was proven to work, so cross that one off the list!
Main problem was the bottom left was weeping, small patch when pressurised after a few minutes, I drove it like this for a long time though. You might be able to see that this has brass end tanks, and weighs about twice what the new one does, that has nylon/glass fibre end tanks instead, though it does still look well made, I will say, better than the Nissens rad I had before (as well as being wrong!). I think this was a Nissens rad, about 15 years ago, guess things have moved on since then.
Anyway, I built up the new rad:
20220304_102304.jpg
Gave everything a bit of a clean, used new fasteners where I could. Then set about putting the new thermostat seals in place, copper grease on the bolts of course.... refitting heater hoses, pipe, a straight silicone hose between the thermostat housing and the pipe, reconnected the block breather and made sure all the wires were put back where they should be. End result looked something like this:
You can also see in this picture the very lovely and leak-free PAS cooler pipe, thanks again Mark
All clips where replaced with Mikalor stainless and after running it up to temp and topping it up a few times it was confirmed to have no leaks -bonus!
However, never to be without some drama, the bottom radiator mount decided to part company from it's metal surroundings.... doh. The parts book is useless here, and I had ordered one, but not realised that it wasn't quite right, about 30mm too short.
So, as a temp solution I had to cobble something together, started making this:
Not even close to being good, let alone perfect, but it is very well held for the moment. Will replace when I can source a proper one from somewhere.
Hopefully that is the last time I open the cooling system for a while
A lesson learnt on this job, if you are taking the radiator out, just drain the PAS fluid and remove the cooler beforehand, it will save you time and money.
....and so onto the third job, I mentioned earlier that one of the front subframe bolts had gone 'soft' on me. It was a new bolt, and I managed to snug it in there with a gob of loctite to hole it there, but I knew it needed addressing, as it wouldn't torque up to spec.
So, whipped the bolt out (two turns and it fell out....), and then pried apart the polybush, removing the inner sleeve. My plan here was to 'upgrade' to M12 bolts, essentially as per the later S2s, it would save cutting a hole in my chassis leg, something I really, really didn't want to do.
The bolts are M12x1.5, (so metric FINE, coarse is 1.75 for M12), meaning I needed to make my M10 sleeve suit an M12 bolt.
Time to break out the pillar drill, and a 12mm drill bit:
20220304_133925.jpg
I expected these to be TOUGH, I though they were stainless, but perhaps just low-grade stuff, it cut quite well, evidenced by the chip size you can see on the vice.
After drilling, I chamfered the edge a little with a large step drill, just for niceness:
Now the potentially risky part, tapping a new hole. Above I say that the bolts are M12x1.5, meaning we need to drill a 10.5mm hole up into the captive nut in the chassis. As it was already also M10 (with most of the threads stripped out), I started there, and ran a 10mm drill up through it, this worked fine, I only had an old mains drill with me, a soft start battery drill (stupidly left at home) would have been much better! Anyway, it worked, and I then swapped over to a 10.5mm drill and pushed that up through. Doing it in two steps mean the final hole is almost a clean up, so should end up better formed than if you just rammed a 10.5mm straight through.
Then came another potential tricky bit..... tapping the hole. It is quite inset, so I had to get creative :
Very, very pleased this worked out, and I am sure it will be helpful for someone in a similar position, could even be used for the rear subframe, if ever needed.
So that was the end of my day, a pretty successful one by all accounts, so well pleased.
Thanks to Mark for the PAS cooler again, and Alex for being speedy with his parts dispatch/delivery, owe you both one
That moment when you get it all back together, it's running great, beautiful sunset, almost home and then the coolant light comes on.
No problem, just top it up, must have been an airlock.
Get home, hmm, smell coolant.
Check under bonnet, coolant leaking from thermostat housing. Literally the worst place, as the whole lot has to come out.
Oh well, pull it all out, thermostat housing off, and refit with new, spare seal. Radiator back in, with new bottom mount, replacing the bracket above). Flush everything for good measure again, fill with water as waiting for coolant and run it up to temp.
Thermostat housing dry, good show! Fan kicks in and out a few times, I check for leaks and then refit the radiator top ducting. My foot is suddenly getting warm, weird.
I squat down to see a trail of what looks like slightly coolanty water running down the front of the engine. Erm? Pull the ducting off again and have a closer look, can't see where it is coming from. Thermostat housing appears to be dry still.

Eventually after much looking and poking and prodding, it seems the water pump has sprung a massive leak.
So I guess I am doing the timing belt next week.

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