Ah haaa
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Resurrection of my CQ20V
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Well, i hope it works better than my replacement
Fitted it, went for a drive and all is well. Needle moves to the 'normal zone' and stays there. Goes up and down with fan when stationary - perfect function - happy days and after a 17 mile run out to get it nice and hot and all is well.
Fill up with petrol and before I've got off the forecourt BEEP BEEP BEEP and the dreaded red thermometer of death has appeared.
I think i may cut the sodding wire. Some cars don't even have autocheck and so far I have spent circa £50 pursuing something that I have lived with NOT seeing for years on my other coupe and never knew if the autocheck system was working on that car as it never triggered!
Last edited by steve briance; 26 January 2018, 21:38.
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It would be interesting to hear what you find - my first JP group one did the same as tonight's - fine for drive out but BEEP BEEP BEEP after restart. I wonder what is going on in there? something moving and getting latched on? Its a shame as the gauge reads perfectly. I've been referring to this pic which is on here somewhere and i think was sourced from quattroworld. Handy pic!
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I don't think snipping the wire at the MFTS would disable the fuel side of things? My fuel light is the one I really watch the most so im keen to keep that too, I've never seen the battery picture come on, I've gone vacuum servo so won't see the bomb symbol and every now and then i see the washer light.
I'm more bothered by something not working as it should than it not being there!
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So.... the long-awaited MFTS post-mortem....
I hacked the top off the JP one first, lo and behold, it was wet with coolant inside.... you can see the terminals for the overheat (the sprung mechanism in the middle) blackened and generally corroded.
IMG_20180223_120109.jpg
The inside had beads of coolant in, not sure you can see it, but it was there!
IMG_20180223_120505.jpg
So that was it really, it was leaky. As the autocheck is likely dealing with logic-level stuff, the coolant was conductive enough to fire the overheat off permanently. I couldn't see anything, but I suspect porous brass is the issue, or perhaps I overtightened it.....? I don't think so, but easily done with a 30mm spanner.
So, onto the Mahle version, which read low at cruise. You can see the very shiny and more chunky contacts for the overheat switch, they are plated, and the copper buttons are much larger/more material. I would say in that respect, it is a much higher quality switch.
IMG_20180223_120520.jpg
Putting the two next to one another, you can see it clearly:
IMG_20180223_120551.jpg
The pedestal on the right is, I think, the temperature sender element. , these appear identical in every way... however they are clearly not! ( I have removed a clip from the JP one at the moment)
Feels like neither Mahle nor JP make their own item here, and they are sourced at a price, and then remarketed.
I had my replacement JP one turn up recently, to replace the faulty one above, and have fitted it (less wrenching on the spanner ) and to date, it is working PERFECTLY......
So.... yes, buy a JP one, but you may find it doesn't work for long, or you may be lucky.
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nice surgery!
I'm a bit miffed it was probably a leak that caused the problems - I had two which both were problematic, trying to get a seller to refund on a fault that is only apparent when it is cut up is a tall order. Not sure i would buy a third on that track record but it seems you have struck lucky!
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Greg
S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster
'93 Coupe with a few tweeks
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I’ve got an original here somewhere that I cut open, I’ll try and find it!
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