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Resurrection of my CQ20V

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  • Yeah, I am quite torn between paying 20 and 80 quid for one!

    I think I paid for a Sachs last time, I just can't find the receipt.


    • OK, stupid question time, I knew they were different lengths, but the marks I made have now been covered by paint, which side takes the longer driveshaft? (front!)

      Thanks very much!


      • Nevermind now! I reassembled the strut and lower wishbome and took some flange to outer edge of wheel bearing, there's about 14mm difference in the shafts and the measurements came out with the same difference.

        Bottom line is, driver's shaft is the short one


        • OK, finally got my replacement hose from my German agent, I used this lot:

          The part was only available from Audi Tradition, but of course no way for us to order this at the moment. They charged a ~7€ sourcing fee, which I thought was quite reasonable. Arrived well packaged and was definitely original audi, and a lovely piece! It is larger bore than a brake line, which is probably where other people had become unstuck when replacing with a flexible braided line.

          All fitted up, clutch bled with pedal down and up, no issues, I can get all gears without any problems, phew

          So the list was:

          All 4 front CV joints - Done.
          Front strut mounts - Done.
          Front bumpstops - Done.
          Fix clutch hydraulics - Done.
          Investigate clunk from rear suspension (probably drop link) - Err, didn't get a chance.
          Check out propshaft and refurb if needed - Actually, the prop looks fine, even the rubber centre mount. Looks like my slight whine from the rear is probably the diff.

          I bought SKF joints for the driveshafts, which were hardly cheap, though they are very nicely made, and I really don't want to be doing this all again in a couple of years They fitted the shafts really well, and the boots are top quality, with really nice clips as well.

          I got everything done about 8:30 last night and dropped it on its wheels, torqued up the hub bolts. Engage reverse, clutch working, nice! Let off hand brake, move off in reverse, and the car tries to move, but doesn't.

          First thing that goes through my mind is that I managed to seize the handbrake on, or the pressure bleeder had somehow seized the brakes on. Jacking up the rear removed the handbrake from the equation, the wheels moved freely. Jack up front, both locked solid. Like, huh? I cracked the bleed nipple and there was no residual pressure, and the discs moved once I did that.

          Cue a cuppa tea and a bit of thought.

          I dropped the car down again, and loosened the front hub bolts -car drives. Grr... tighten up one then the other, and realise that BOTH the front CV joints are somehow binding on the hub carriers. I mean, COME ON!

          Jack car up again, wheels off, bottom ball joint out, driveshaft out of hub, at which point clear evidence of where it had been contacting was seen. Sigh. All around the tapered part of the CV was contacting the very outer edge of the hub carrier. On the RH hub here, you can see where the ABS sensor pokes through, just inboard of that. (not my pic)

          Well there was nothing for it, out came the finger sander, and I removed maybe 2mm of material from the hub all the way round, was fast work with cast iron and a coarse belt. Bolted it all back up and now the car even freewheels properly again

          One problem I had been having was the front bump stops were just not coping with either my driving style or Somerset's roads, I have replaced then 3-4 times and always end up mashed in a very short time. This time I bought some Boge items, which are made completely differently, out of some high density foam, rather than some pseudo rubber like the previous ones. They are also pale yellow in colour and just look to be so much better made. I would recommend them to any one at the moment, but will report back in 6 months time!

          I can also confirm that it is nice to be driving around on new INA top mounts!

          MOT soon, next week most likely, but driving again


          • I've had this same fault with poorly made aftermarket cv joints - you need to shave off a few mm for clearance



            • Glad to know I am not alone!

              Being SKF I had expected better, but never mind, all done now


              • Bowie,

                If you liked the Boge bump-stops...
                You might also prefer their strut top-mounts for next time if those current should disappoint, and if the idea of next time being the last time for a longer time holds any appeal; you might also consider:

                Boge 355A top-mounts with Strut-Stops...

                AFAIK, INA doesn't make mounts. As previously you had said: "fit new Meyle HD mounts and see how I get on with them", it may be that they are in fact Meyles as out of the box, the mounts themselves may lack obvious branding save for the bearings they carry, of which INA (founded 1946 by the Schaeffler brothers) are often the supplier to various Euro-based makers of our type top-mounts; including Meyle.

                Screen Shot 2019-04-30 at 12.45.09.png

                Meyle HD top-mounts (photo below) have a unique shallow curved dish upper cavity shape (as opposed to the more typical Boge type which have a deeper and ring-ridged bottom recess):

                Screen Shot 2019-04-30 at 13.08.31.png

                photo from:



                • Appreciated Lago Blue .

                  I bought Meyle HD mounts and arrived in sealed Meyle boxes, on opening there was INA either cast into the rubber or the bearing, if forget which. Hence my saying INA in a subsequent post. I could be wrong of course

                  They do look better made than the ones I took off, I forget what they were, but they are years old.


                  • Been doing a bit more driving, all feels much better. the biggest improvement is the lack of transmission slop! Off-on power was getting quite a jerky affair, and now it is not entirely smooth, but so, so much better.

                    I did adjust the snub mount bracket as well, making it tighter, I am sure that has helped too. I would like to do the mod so I have a round snub mount bracket, but it is getting hold of one that seems to be the problem, at least for reasonable money.

                    Next on list, to swap the drivers door central locking actuator, it works, but I think there's something going on with the switches meaning I can't lock/unlock the rest of the car from the drivers door. Will see when I get in there. I may also try and fix whatever is rattling in there(!)


                    • First motorway run this morning, boy, like a different car

                      Gone are the vibes I was getting and the country roads to get to the motorway were a joy, so much sharper on turn in and the like, very pleased!

                      Now, I must get the rear done, hopefully just the same improvement!


                      • ........ And right before the journey home on the motorway......


                        Cap has lost its pimple, rotor is galled very badly, and there is what looks like oil aluminium schmoo inside the dizzy - a runny paste.

                        As I have no spark at all from even the King lead, I'm suspicious the whole lot has just fallen apart internally, hence the wanted ad.

                        The level of destruction inside the cap is impressive, which is also what makes me think it is the dizzy, it wasn't that bad in there last time I looked, and it's not as if I have done moon mileage since I replaced cap and rotor.

                        Sigh, oh well, only the second time in 6 years it has let me down at the roadside.
                        Last edited by Bowie69; 3rd May 2019, 10:35.


                        • OK, so I reckon it must just be a complete coincidence, but the dizzy is fine mechanically (stripped it down this evening, first chance I had). However, it appears the hall sensor has failed.

                          That does not answer where all the schmoo had come from:

                          The keen-eyed among you will notice the pimple is missing entirely, though the spring is still there. When the RAC man removed it, I guess the remnants of the pimple fell out entirely, but I suppose it is possible that it was running without it perfectly fine. I will just say here again, it drove PERFECTLY up to Bristol, no problem, no misfires, full power, was loving it

                          The rotor arm looks like this:

                          the leen-eyed among you again will notice the massive divot in the middle of the arm, and the distinct lack of brass in there. if the picture quality was better you'd see it is very badly pitted, and worn down a lot, the divot is at least 2mm deep.

                          So.... the answer as to where the schmoo which looked like aluminium filings in a bit of engine oil is actually the graphite(?) button that has ground itself away mixed up with bits of rotor arm and cap, plus a smattering of brass. In many ways this is a good result

                          I did notice that when removing the rotor, it came off in my hands quite easily, completely loose -I do, and did glue this one on, but clearly I hadn't put quite as much as I probably needed in there, oh well. Next time it will get a good glob of thread lock

                          So, drilled out the rivet holding on the metal gear (I replaced the dizzy for a brand new Bosch one about.... 70K ago) and pulled it all apart, just need a roll pin, cap, rotor and new hall sensor and will be back on the road I reckon. The coil checks out fine, so really can only be this, he says with fingers crossed!

                          Attached Files


                          • OK, just checking something, anyone know what size roll pin needed for the dizzy? I measure the hole up at 4.25mm diameter, but always tricky with a pair of digi calipers

                            It is 20mm long, I know that much.



                              I think if you order 4mm pins this should be fine - 4.4mm in relaxed form, it would need to squash down a decent amount to go through your 4.25mm hole.

                              I can't find my spare to measure but I'd go for '4' mm as 5mm probably won't go through the hole anyway!


                              • Cool, thanks very much Steve