RichLV's UrS4

[diesel des]

Sorry what I ment was the pre turbo temperature is the one that's important. So measure that during mapping. 900 deg c max for endurance racing and 1000 deg c for short blasts. Drive a test route at a known speed e.g. up a steep hill flat out. Record temperature.

Then once it's mapped move the probe to the downpipe and compare what temperature you are getting there on the same test route driving the same speed. Then you know the relationship between both places. The downpipe will also be slower to react.

If the downpipe temperature later gets high you know you have an issue. The probe will be more reliable in the downpipe and if it fails will not damage your turbo there.

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[RichLV]

Fit the egt pre turbo for mapping then move it to the downpipe and more the difference. Then if you a we the dowpipe temperature high you can slow down.

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Could you elaborate please? Not sure I followed you there.

[diesel des]

Fit the egt pre turbo for mapping then move it to the downpipe and more the difference. Then if you a we the dowpipe temperature high you can slow down.

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[RichLV]

What would you do with temp readings from the downpipe?

If that's for me, then nothing. I just want to monitor the health of the car as much as I can. I'm actually still undecided whether to fit an EGT or an AFR gauge. Majority of recommendations suggest an AFR, since it shows faster, while EGT's can be explained differently. The most booming combination is both, but I only have room for one more. :/

P.S. And I also love gauges...

[Thuppu]

What would you do with temp readings from the downpipe?

[UrS4boy]

The OE downpipe had an OE bung for sniffing/temp probing downstream of the turbo. Work with that idea.

[RichLV]

I'm thinking where could I stick the EGT probe to? I've read some material online and most suggest that pre-turbo is the best place (i'm thinking in the hotside housing). Others are refuting it because if the probe falls apart, the bits go through the turbine and that it should just be fit right after the turbo, in the downpipe, but there's a few hundred degree temperature differential between pre- and post-turbo, so the reading is inaccurate.

Anyone could chime in with some advice?

[RichLV]

Current look:



Battling starting issues at the moment.

[RichLV]

Got the throttle cam. It's very very light, like a feather almost.

[RichLV]

Ok, so the write-up on the things I've done during the rebuild. All of the work was done by me alone or me & an assistant. All of the special machining work (measuring, pressure testing, etc.) was done by known and recommended professionals. I'll add pictures of the looks under the hood a bit later.

Engine:
*Block*
- Full rebuild of the AAN engine.
- Sourced bottom end from 1995 S6.
- Block measured and re-honed.
- Crankshaft measured and polished.
- ACL Race main bearings.
- King Racing rod bearings.
- FCP X-Beam 144x20mm rods.
- Stock pistons, cleaned.
- Mahle piston rings.
- Stock oil pump.
- Billet crank pulley.
- New crank pulley bolt.
- New gaskets all around.

*Head*
- Stock head, lightly skimmed & pressure tested.
- New AE intake & exhaust valves.
- New Metelli valve guides.
- New INA lifters.
- Valve seat & valve 45-degree backcuts.
- New cam pulley bolt.
- New gaskets all around.

*Misc*
- New flanges.
- New Mahle thermostat.
- New HEPU waterpump.
- Gates timing belt, INA tensioner roller.
- Gates aux belt.
- Mahle oil, air & fuel filter.
- Silicone water hoses.
- A/C compressor & radiator deleted.
- All possible sensors replaced except MAF, N75, N80 & injectors.
- New Corteco engine hydromounts.
- Proper right engine mount.
- Bought missing front snub mount.
- K24-7000 turbo from 1994 S2.
- Stainless steel injector inserts.
- Billet throttle cam.
- Wagner RS2 EVO exhaust manifold.
- Copper nuts on exhaust side.
- New exhaust system gaskets.
- Replaced fuel rail.
- New injector o-rings.
- Modified breather system: valves deleted, straight line from the block distributor to intake transfer pipe through a baffled catch can. 20mm diameter.
- Repair kits used on both clutch cylinders.

Suspension:
- 28mm front ARB with poly bushes from Albert.

Brakes:
- New front ABS sensors.

Steering:
- Replaced steering rack, servotronic works now.
- Brand new TRW single-contour PAS pump.

Fluids:
- Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w-40 engine oil.
- Motul Gear 300 75w-90 gearbox & diff.
- Motul green hydraulic fluid for PAS system.
- G13 coolant.
- Ferodo DOT4 brake fluid.

That's about it. I'll add if I missed something.

[RichLV]

The 7400 is quite rare here. I've tried to look for one, but we almost don't have S60 R's and V70 R's for breaking here. Other than that the 7400 needs fabrication and plumbing change, and I want to keep my silicone hoses and stock layout under the hood. 7200 is plug&play and AFAIK the billet ones spool faster than standard.

Can the old 2.3.2 Motronic be mated to a wideband lambda? Since I'm planning to outfit the car with a multitude of gauges (boost, afr, exhaust temp, fuel pressure), I'd like a wideband gauge somewhere. Or does the wideband function as a separate device? Sorry, my knowledge here is blank. :/

[hunker7]

You have the same idea as me, torque is life I'd go for 7400 as it spools quicker than 7200 and is probably cheaper if you can find one. Atleast that's what I'm going for.

[RichLV]

She's a beauty. What power you're expecting?

Thanks, kinda fell in love again.

For now still stock. Only the exhaust manifold has been changed. In the future I'm opting for a billet K24-7200 from Vidar and 440cc Bosch's probably. Leaning more towards staying on Motronic (Mafless, by PRJ), don't want to lose the trip computer. Power isn't the main focus, I want torque - the more, the better. Basically maximum safe power & torque that a billet K24-7200 can offer. Got X-beams just for the torque actually.

[hunker7]

She's a beauty. What power you're expecting?

[Spyform]

Nice one!! My congrats!!!!!