My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration

[Tractor Dave]

So green is better?

[newsh]

ATF knackered mine. It had it in when I bought it. It was as six years old at the time. Pipes, servo and bomb all dead in no time. Used the green hydraulic stuff ever since. My urs6 had it in too when I got it. Same pain. Including the rack!!

10 valve quattro?

[GT500]

10 valve quattro?

Yes. “87

[GT500]

So green is better?

Only oil I’d use in there.

[Nuvo]

Older cars need mineral-based oil, not fully synth as this damages rubber seals.

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member-s-area/audi-cabriolet-s/85903-1997-audi-80-cabriolet-issues-please-help?p=1331256#post1331256

[Nuvo]

Dave, Having read the Fuchs product specification, it states that CHF11S is actually synthetic and not mineral based as I assumed but it is suitable. I found a very informative link explaining the differences between PAS fluid types.

HTH

https://powerracksdirect.co.uk/what-fluid-to-use/

[newsh]

Yes. “87

I've always used red in the WR, it's an '84 car owned since 86 ish

[Tractor Dave]

Today was a lovely sunny and quite warm day.
Now I've been mulling over this for a while and finally made my mind up.
The inner wings have no liners on the Ur and need extra protection. After doing lots of research I decided to go for some extra protection in the form of some Dinitrol stone chip.
Not cheap but apparently very good.


Two tins were enough for two coats in each inner wing.
Came out nice.


I would have liked to have kept the body colour but I think protection is more important.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[steve briance]

Dinitrol 447 is over paintable!

Used it a fair bit and rate it a lot. One project car has body colour over the top and the other has 4941 underbody wax over it - its black, self repairing and dries to a semi matt non sticky finish but can't be overpainted.

I love the dinitrol products and used the ML wax as a final step in the fight against corrosion. Its viscosity is a little like water and it creeps into seams, cracks, corners etc and then sets.

[Tractor Dave]

Yes. I was aware. Just not sure if I will get around to doing it. Still a big list of jobs to do and everything takes four times longer than you thought

[Tractor Dave]

Warm up regulator got a quick check and clean up.





Pas reservoir got fitted.


Expansion bottle got a scrub.


Intercooler got fitted.


I cut some fabric heat shield material and fitted it to the subframe where the exhaust is very close. I used fibreglass resin and nothing else I know will withstand the temp there. Cling film wrap to hold it in place as it goes off.


Still lots to do. Puff puff!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GT500]

I've always used red in the WR, it's an '84 car owned since 86 ish

bizarre that it ruined all my components. The servo was just after I bought it. 21 years old and totally scint from buying it. That was not what I needed. Pipes were not long after.

[4WDrifter]

Warm up regulator got a quick check and clean up.





Pas reservoir got fitted.


Expansion bottle got a scrub.


Intercooler got fitted.


I cut some fabric heat shield material and fitted it to the subframe where the exhaust is very close. I used fibreglass resin and nothing else I know will withstand the temp there. Cling film wrap to hold it in place as it goes off.


Still lots to do. Puff puff!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you replace any of the seals in the warm up regulator or are they okay to open and just close up again?

[Tractor Dave]

The seal was ok.I should really have used a seal kit but they have become expensive and only seem to be available from Germany. I cleaned up the faces and cleaned the seal in wd40. I just wanted to open it up to check it wasn't full of crud and to check the diaphragm was good. Looks like it's been overhauled before and was very clean inside.

[4WDrifter]

Great and 16.1 ohms is correct resistance?