My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration

[Tractor Dave]

Make sure you clean the the piston in the injection distributor. They stick after being stood awhile.

I didn't want to open up the metering head. Can I get to the piston easily?

[GT500]

I didn't want to open up the metering head. Can I get to the piston easily?

yes. The arm moves it up and down. You can take the arm off and take it out to clean it.

[Tractor Dave]

Ok, cheers

[steve briance]

I rigged up an injector tester when i was messing around with size and spray patterns on my 7A. I made a pressure pot in effect. I think I used an old soldering torch gas cylinder and connected (welded) an airline fitting boss at the top and one at the bottom. Compressed Air line at the top regulated down to 4Bar and the fitting at bottom had a hose going to my injector.

Adding some petrol in the cylinder and pressuring with air allowed me to see what each injector was squirting when the solenoid got 12v. Worked a treat

You would need to know what thread sizes your injectors are but its an idea that might work albeit you need a bit more pressure. Is it 7bar for K jet?

I would maybe add an inline valve to your top connection so you can control the constant injector a little.

[Tractor Dave]

That sounds a bit complicated. Maybe I will just hot wire the fuel pump.

So, well please with the Aux radiator that came of the NG engine coupe I bought for parts. It's marked manufacture date is 2010. About the time when the car was taken off the road. It's mint. Looks like I can get it to work on the Ur no problem.



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[steve briance]

Its a Behr as well! SCORE

[steve briance]

And, part of why i made my injector tester was to be able to adjust the pressure easily. The 7A fuel rail is 4bar but most new injectors are quoted as 3bar. I was trying to see what difference it made to spray patterns. Maybe a bit OTT but good fun

[newsh]

yes. The arm moves it up and down. You can take the arm off and take it out to clean it.

You can but just be prepared, it's such a close tolerance that it's quite tricky to get back in.

[Tractor Dave]

You can but just be prepared, it's such a close tolerance that it's quite tricky to get back in.

I didn't have the bottle to remove the flap. I was able to clean everything from the underside using a toothbrush and lots of wd40.

[Tractor Dave]

Getting on with things in the engine bay now.



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[Tractor Dave]

I'd forgotten how tight everything is in here.



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[newsh]

I didn't have the bottle to remove the flap. I was able to clean everything from the underside using a toothbrush and lots of wd40.

Petrol! Esso 98 with a dash of red ex or Comma petrol magic!
WD40 is such a rubbish lubricant, turns to glue when it evaporates..

[Tractor Dave]

Petrol! Esso 98 with a dash of red ex or Comma petrol magic!
WD40 is such a rubbish lubricant, turns to glue when it evaporates..

Noted

[Tractor Dave]

Basically everything I fitted yesterday had to come back out again.
I realised I had mis routed the cable that runs to the back of the fan and the two sensors for the brake bomb. I re routed them no problem but when re fitting the bottom sensor connector on the bomb, one of the terminals snapped off. To get access, the radiator, etc was in the way.


Unfortunately there isn't enough room from underneath.

The offending sensor. I suspect it got a knock when in storage.


No this sensor isn't available in the uk and looks expensive from Germany. A quick chat with the Oracle (Newsh) and he suggested that it could be repaired. Following his instructions I ended up with this.


Thanks Newsh


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[Tractor Dave]

And before all this started I adapted the aux rad bracket to work like the original.



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