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My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

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  • Well, that's very good of you... I could do with enough to sort out the front door cards on my RS2 which is a job I need to get out of the way sooner rather than later as if the foam gets on the seats its a real sod to get off. When I do the the headlining I'm going to remove the seats entirly as it doesn't take long and prevents any contanmination, I'll also open all the doors. At the moment the covering is held up with dozens of drawing pins but it's ready to really make a mess if disturbed. But as I have to use the doors I'll do them now if poss, do you reckon you've got enough left for the pair?
    1989 B3 2.0 3A 80 quattro... Budget 1.8T Project.
    1992 C4 100 2.8 Avant quattro... Mobile Sitting Room.
    1995 RS2... MTM K26/7 380 BHP Conversion.
    1990 Corrado G60... Breaking For Parts.

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    • I wonder how it would perform on headlining material?...

      My headlining is sagging again after 5 or 6 years and use of high temp adhesive. I can't recall the exact stuff i used but its dissapointing its dropped again.

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      • Here is the link to the data sheet on the tape. https://docs.rs-online.com/d2a1/A700000009542293.pdf It does appear to have a lot of commercial usage and capable of handling high summer temperatures and humidity. It was one of the reasons I went for it.

        What I don't trust these days is general of the shelf products that the likes of B&Q sell, with all the laws on substances these days most of the chemicals that made the product work have been removed, with nitromors paint stripper being a prime example. However I also believe the Evo-Stick contact adhesive has also been changed and don't think it's it's as good as it used to be.

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        • Thankyou.

          100% agree re nitromors - you might as well lick the paint off for what good the product is.

          I used 3M High Strength 90 spray adhesive on a different car recently. I trust 3M products more than others and habe high hopes this headliner will last more tjaba few years.

          My other favourite is VHB double sided tapes - a reliable substitute for holding a rubber seal on a stainless trim, one that the factory decided to use nasty metal clips on that ultimately damaged the paint where they grip and
          ​Lead to rust. (its an old saab)





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          • With the weather over the last few months being very poor I've not been using the car much. I also knew I had a water leaking in somewhere from the passenger side. However it turned out I had two water leaks on the passenger side.

            First water leak was dripping down from under the glovebox, so I figured it had to be the seal around the airbox. however it turned out it was the plastic trim cover that sits at the bottom of the windscreen. These trims on my car are not in the best of condition they are a little warped after 30 years I should have got new ones from tradition when they were available but now they are all sold out

            So I knew it was the trims that were at fault due to the pollen filter being wet. They have a similar setup on the B5 A4 but for that Audi created a rain channel that goes over the filer to catch any water drips, unfortunately the B5 one won't fit the coupe as the bottom of the screen is too close to the filter. So I set about making my own.

            1-rain.png

            It's curved upwards behind the screen and I put a foam strip along the edge, just in case it starts to rub against the paintwork, and stop any drips coming over the lip.
            2-rain.jpg

            To fit it did not have to modify the airbox, it clamps on one side and there is a screw hole on the other to hold it in place. It's a bit rough around the edges but it does the job, and you are never going to see it except when you remove the cover. I've wash the car and left it out in the rain one day and the filter was dry. So first leak sorted.

            Second leak I thought was was coming from the sunroof, as I was getting water coming down the side of the dash. however after checking the drain holes and opening up the sunroof and pouring water around the frame there was no leaking and it was just coming out the drain tubes at the side of the car.

            So next was to check the door seal, so after spraying the door with the hose pipe sure enough there was a little puddle of water on the carpet and the when I removed the seal I could see water on the A pillar trim. So water was getting in there and running down the A pillar trim then down the side of the dash and onto the carpet.
            3-water.png
            Thankfully I had a spare seal however, it would appear the hand of bodge had also attacked this side of the car, the same as the drivers side. There were missing rivets, half drilled out rivets and screws holding holding the roof channel trim guide in place. I know this car has had a full glass out respray in it's life and they did a very good job paint, but whoever rebuilt the car afterwards did a very poor job!
            4-rivit..jpg

            So the replacement seal was fitted which was a complete pain in the backside to fit for the upper section.
            5-seal.jpg

            After testing with a hose pipe there were no more leaks.

            The question is could the faulty seal be saved. I can see there is a channel running all the way along the top of the seal. I'm wondering if I could run down some rubber tubing to pack it out a little and provide a better seal between the rubber & glass? As the condition of the seal is very good it just gone a little flat when the glass pushes against the seal.

            This is the hole that runs all the way along the top of the seal
            6-seal.jpg







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            • Nice work.
              Try soaking the old seal in wd40 for a few weeks. It causes the rubber to swell slightly.
              Nothelle S2 Avant
              Black Ur project
              Ocianic Ur project gone
              S2 Coupe project gone
              Urs6 plus project gone

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