My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[s2driveruk]

I *might* have a full assembly. The only thing is I cannot remember where it went during house move. I will have a dig about during the week if you like

[B5NUT]

If you don't mind that would be great

[johne]

Play in the PAS is normal. If it's not leaking, leave it alone. Even if it does leak a bit it'll still go on for ages. Replacements and or rebuilds are very hard to find and very expensive. Last time I looked the seal kit alone needed for a rebuild was over £70.

[B5NUT]

Thanks. It's not leaking it just seamed like a lot of play. Pumps are difficult to find so will look around for a seal kit.

[johne]

It is a lot of play but they rattle along and it isn't that easy to shim out the play. Just keep the drive belt pretty loose and they just go on and on. Mine has done 180,000 miles and it was so noisy I took it back to the Dealer to complain when it had done only 4,000 miles and got the "they all do that" - for once I think they were probably right.

[Tractor Dave]

It is a lot of play but they rattle along and it isn't that easy to shim out the play. Just keep the drive belt pretty loose and they just go on and on. Mine has done 180,000 miles and it was so noisy I took it back to the Dealer to complain when it had done only 4,000 miles and got the "they all do that" - for once I think they were probably right.

Yes. Both of mine have play.

[nribs]

Here is the kit I've used for the 7A 20v tandem pump. Note that the shaft seal in this kit is not the correct one. All the other seals are a fit. If you search Ebay "Audi 20v power steering kit" there are several sellers selling this kit.
https://rennbay.com/Power-Steering/P...-Seal-Kit.html

20210808_101731 (1).jpg
Proceed gingerly with the shaft flange removal if you decide to replace that front seal. Fortunately I had another pump to harvest a flange from.

[B5NUT]

Thanks for the heads up. I'll get a kit on order, but It will be a job for next summer. Will also look around for a used pump that I can rebuild so the car is not off the road for weeks if I make a mess of things!

[B5NUT]

No real update today, only thing I have done is sand back the panel with 400 grit so it's now ready for the base coat. Think so far about 20hours have one into that single wing. However blowing on the base and top coat will be quick enough. So it should be finished tomorrow! Famous last words as my wife would say...
1-wing.jpg

[Lago Blue]

Koni 3 types in X-section colour drwg Screen Shot 2021-11-19 at 10.18.07.png

VW strut tool photo Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 13.24.22.png 7Zap re S2 upper perch washer spring stop Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 13.52.10.png Koni rod shoulder chamfer and threaded shaft juncture Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 11.23.06.png

EW 1 Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 11.53.52.png UW 2 Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 11.54.31.png UW 3 Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 11.54.53.png

Konis Sleeve for ID of stock Audi S2 bump stop Screen Shot 2021-11-20 at 08.19.23.png Actual sleeve for bump-stop grip drwg Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 18.29.05.png Porsche Koni 6 groove disc upside down Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 15.04.33.png

[Lago Blue]

Here’s a start on a re-write of the gone missing text for the now photos only post above from yesterday…

Hi sir,

Re: “The down side to this I fear, is that I will have to get Koni for the rear as well. I just don't think "performance" shocks like Koni at the front then standard KYB at the rear may not work very well.”

Response: Perhaps your new Koni’s aren’t that different from what new stock would initially offer in performance. It may prove that what you’ve set your fronts to, relative to the Monroe’s capability, will not be problematic.

Across all the brands available there are 3 performance strata (and 3 corresponding requisite construction types) of self-contained (non external reservoir type) damper inserts to fit inside our struts (see 3 Damper cross-sections illus.)

Koni certainly makes high-pressure gas strut inserts similar to Bilstein B6/8’s, however this doesn’t appear to be one of them. The Koni chart, 2nd screen-shot indicates dampers with the P/N prefix 86 are not too un-ordinary twin-tubes (non-pressurized).

Further, when comparing what you have, remember that as the front axle ordinarily carries twice as much weight as the rear, that difference will be reflected in the stock springs and dampers. In the last post in your previous thread, Johne may have indicated that he has run Bilstein mono-tubes (a damper two grades above prefix 86 Koni's) with Monroe’s on the rear. To perhaps allay your concern, you may want to ask him how he finds that works.

Re: "However the instructions also tell you to add 50ml of antifreeze in the strut, but I'm not doing that!"

Response: My humble opinion only, the best thing to do here is actually two things: both the drain-hole mod and use cavity wax.

Re Q: "I don't see why they would over heat,...why would the Koni overheat and the Bilstein not"

A: Perhaps overheat isn't exactly the root of the issue as follows: At ambient temperature, an unpressurized or low-pressure damper can be made to "boil", where a high-pressure gas damper may yet not. What occurs is called cavitaton and what would appear inside to be "boiling", is fluid vapour that forms bubbles when too much negative pressure is applied to the fluid. With cavitation onset, the damper suddenly foams and offers zero resistance, and the re-absorbtion of those bubbles won't happen soon in a damper still being driven on. Further, once foaming, the fluid can’t really transfer heat to the damper body very well either and continued driving will certainly raise the temperature.

Here's a quick video that shows a damper already at the point where this cavitation is happening. What they do next is add air pressure to the damper chamber, just enough to raise the required energy input threshold at which this “boiling” can occur:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNVofqBrFXY

What each of the two more expensive gas pressure construction types of damper provide above the base models, is an increase in the threshold at which this issue might arise.

Re Q: "Is it easier to fit that lot into the car then fit the wheel bearing housing, or is it best to fit the wheel bearing housing while everything is off the car?"

A: I prefer the former as it is an easier lift in 2 stages. Tip: While the two through-bolts are still slightly loose, push the strut inboard from just above this joint and then tighten. This will give you a repeatable position from which you can return to if and when this needs dis-assembly after your alignment (see Strut to Hub Carrier attachment, photo 3).

WRT: Factory vs. Non-factory strut top-nut wrench.
You may know already that the factory item has a relief cut into its face to prevent contact with the top seal of the damper (see Factory Tool, photo 4.)

WRT: Unique factory “cupped spacer” washer between damper shaft shoulder and upper spring perch.
In 7Zap, this quite stout item (see item 11 in 7Zap, screen-shot 5, Shaft photo 6 and Spacer photos 7, 8 and 9) fits convex side up really well, up inside the taller upper spring perch item 12 and P/N 893 412 113, and is apparently in at least 18 VW and Audi variants. A much broader contact area than the bare shoulder with the taller perch. They where original on the front of my V6. I recently learned that S2s came with the flatter upper perches(item (12) P/N 857 412 111 B) up front that I only have on the rear of my coupe. It may be that this item is only paired with the taller upper perch.

WRT: Metal Insert for ID of bump-stop.
This suspends the bump-stop and protective sleeve above damper body such that there is clearance around shaft allowing it to dry off to help prevent corrosion where the damper seal may travel. It only grips onto the chamfer of the shaft shoulder as I have attempted to re-draw in the LH side of the Mod’d Koni Bump-Stop cross-sectional drwg. 11. It may be that this is to allow the Cupped Spacer or Upper Perch to rest directly on the shoulder of this forged shaft rather than the softer metal insert (see Shaft Shoulder photo 6).

WRT: The white plastic “C”-shaped flat washer.
This item comes with perhaps every Koni insert going back at least as far as front dampers for the early 911s. Apparently there was an issue with the bump-stops pulling oil from the dampers; over time. The washer is a vent to prevent the expanding bump-stop from pulling vacuum on the damper seal when it has just been released from compression and is re-inflating. A previous version was radially grooved on one side and could be put on incorrectly as shown here (Wht Washer grooves up photo). The newer “C”-shaped one is Murphy-proof.

WRT: Strut top-mounts.
As Rikki Kitto mentioned earlier, I make kits for these. By themselves, all OEM style mounts fail too early. This may be entirely preventable. If that might be of interest, some further required reading:

Wanted: Volunteers...

Its unfortunate that I didn’t head you off at Correct Bilstein P/N for the 55mm OD strut…However although more Bilstein specific, it may still be worth your while to breeze through this to see if anything else may be of use:

Bilstein into Macpherson

Lovely car, nice work, let patience rule. I’d never heard of, or seen those drive-shaft shields!

[Lago Blue]

Skip this.

[B5NUT]

I read all of your original post, but no idea where it's gone.

For My tool I'll look to make a slight modification and weld a ring around the nut, so it cannot touch the seal on the shock. Also are you still selling the upper mount modification?

[Antsa]

Thanks That helps.

So would a 078903015A be a straight swap or would I need to change the plastic case?

It is pretty much a straight swap, the rear cover of the v6 alternator can be left on. However it's casing is missing a threaded hole for this (see pic). I just drilled and tapped a hole myself.

Screenshot_20211123-173213_DuckDuckGo.jpg

[Lago Blue]

Yes sir, I'll send a PM later on.