My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[B5NUT]

I recently got some koni adjustables for the rear of mine , fitted perfectly

The down side to this I fear, is that I will have to get Koni for the rear as well. I just don't think "performance" shocks like Koni at the front then standard KYB at the rear may not work very well.

[B5NUT]

I know the after run pump is still working so I'm good on that one. The radiator is back in at the moment but I will need to drain the system again when I do the water pump. so could change any required hoses then. I will look to see what is still available on Etka and buy what I can. Once the front is all back together the rear is up next. That is a diff out job as I need to change the seals and the subframe needs to come out. So I don't see the car being done anytime soon, but it will be ready when the good weather returns next year.

What's the prop bearing like on these cars? If I have the diff out should I look at replacing that bearing?

[s2driveruk]

I would personally, they sag after a while. However you can get the prop fully refurbed and balanced with new cv’s, u-joint etc for about £350.

[B5NUT]

I would personally, they sag after a while. However you can get the prop fully refurbed and balanced with new cv’s, u-joint etc for about £350.

Do you have any details of anyone that could do the work?

[K Simmonds]

This is a great project, subscribed, your doing a very nice job of an OE spec restoration. I'd also change the coolant hose's that Dave mentioned when your in there again.

That Superchips mod really is a total bodge, don't see it very often these day's thankfully, there's certainly nothing super about it.

[B5NUT]

What I would like to do is strip the entire shell back and rebuild the entire car, but I don't have the time, space or money. So it's going to have to be done one bit at a time.

Another couple of small job done today was to sort out the front washer system and the boost pipes.

I started by removing the tank and binning the screen washer pump as there was very little flow from it and the case was trying to split apart so something was wrong with it. Then to test the headlight washer pump, and that was working very well.
1-pump.jpg

Next up was to clean the tank and refit.
2-tank.jpg

However while fitting the tank the black plastic hose snapped as it had gone very brittle, so placed an order with brickwerks for some replacement pipe. To replace the front pipe section you need just under 3 meters.


It's so easy to remove as you could just snap it off the car.
3-pipe.jpg
To remove the end bits let in the washer jets a wood screw was used
4-pipe.jpg

The new hose ran in and an ear clip on the motor side, not sure why that is needed as the rubber L shaped hose is not crimped to the pump, or at the washer jets. Anyway that's what it came from the factory.
5-motors.jpg

Also today got a bunch of parts back on the car, which at the moment is a good thing, as I'm sick of just removing bits. When I removed the N75 valve & the DV valve I noticed all the clips holding the boost pipes look at bit crusty, and I was concerned about boost leaks, so it was time to rip it all out.

First issue was the airbox bolt that had rusted on the other side of the nut so when I tried to remove it it just got stuck. After a little while of faffing about I found the nut is just clipped to the car so a quick smack with a hammer and it popped out so I can deal with what's left of the rusty bot in the vice.
6-bolt.jpg

Also going to need to give it a lick of paint
7-bracket.jpg

So with that done back to what I was trying to do in the first place the boost pipe. Once they were all removed the first job was to deal with the rust pipe sticking out of the turbo, it was so bad with rust it has split the rubber pipe going to it so that is going to be replaced.

It was wire bushed as best as I could with the limited access covered in rust converter and then painted with epoxy
8-pipe.jpg

Then it was time to clean up the alloy of the turbo, both the inlet & outlet were cleaned as there was a fair amount of corrosion to the alloy
9-turbo.jpg

Once that was done all the boost pipe were washed, as I really don't like putting dirty parts back on the car.

Only issue with putting the pipes back is to make sure the clips are on the right way so you can get a 7mm socket on them.
10-hose.jpg

Fitting the vacuum hose to the DV was a pain as I could not get the crimp tool in there, so made a tool from a old pair of wire cutters, just made the cutters blunt.
11-cutters.jpg

12-crimp.jpg

At some point I'm going to replace the all the vacuum hoses.

Finally get to put the air box back in and a far smaller bolt. That's just big enough to to be flush with the body mounted nut.
13-bolt.jpg


Air box back in with all the boost hoses.
14-airbox.jpg

I had also removed the intercooler, it was first flushed out out with thinners. Bit black but not bad after 26 years
15-thinners.jpg

There was no oil poring out of the intercooler it just had a thin film of oil over it.

Now the down side of using thinners it also removed most of the paint, as I was getting thinners on my hands.
16-intercooler.jpg

So it was given a quick lick of spray paint
17-intercooler.jpg

Now just waiting on a new o-ring for the intercooler. However before it's refitted the timing belt has to be done. A hole world of pain awaits me!

[Colesy]

Great work! I used Dave Mac Propshafts in Coventry to shorten and refurb one of my props:
https://davemacprops.co.uk/

[simons2]

Are you not going to do the Mark H mod on the intercooler ?

[B5NUT]

Found the Mark H mod. So I was hoping a new o-ring would fix any boost leaks. I will see how it goes if I'm having boost leaks around that area then I will look to make the modification. I'm hoping that new o-ring can handle stock boost

[Rikki Kitto]

Defo do the Mark H mod fantastic work by the way

[newsh]

Yes great stuff mate.
As long as the parts are assembled correctly the O ring will be fine for stock boost.

[steve briance]

What a perfectly enjoyable way to lose an hour! I predict a nice coupe is in its way back to the roads

On a side note - davenac propshafts sorted my shaft once but put some god awful cheap nasty cv joints on each end despite not asking for it. After an argument over why the hell should i pay for some3indidnt ask for, i had to as they had my shaft.

Others may say they are ok but this was my experience.

Fast forward less than a year and both cv joints failed.

I would never give them any business again so used Wilson driveshafts in Nottingham ajd delivered the shaft to them for balance with GKN joints already fitted to save a repeat.

[s2driveruk]

Do you have any details of anyone that could do the work?

here is the detail i have from my rebuild https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...roject-unsieze

[K Simmonds]

More very tidy work, impressive stuff.

The stock O-ring arrangement will handle stock boost just fine as long as you lubricate the new O-ring with proper rubber grease as well as putting a light smear on the outside of of the pipe that runs through the cross member so it slips together nice and easily. Trying to put them together dry often results in damage to the O-ring, then it will leak.

My RS2 run's about 1.7 bar of boost and that currently depends on the stock arrangement as I've never removed the intercooler and that doesn't seem to leak, it certainly doesn't when I do a leak test to 1 bar. That said I will be fitting the Mark-H mod when I have the bumper off to repair it. It's a good way of being sure that the joint will never leak, and as it's so much work to get at it I feel it prudent to go belt and braces in this case.

Oh yeah, changing the cam belt isn't hard at all with the right tool's, it's actually very straight forward as the access is superb once you've got everything out the way, fitting a new water pump as well as billet bottom timing pully is a very good idea though.

Also, do change all the old small bore pipe work as well as making sure it's all routed as per the factory diagram, it's often a source of small but annoying boost leaks, make sure you buy high quality replacement pipe, there's some rubbish stuff on the market at the moment.

[B5NUT]

Few more tasks done while I wait for the shocks that should arrive this week.

Drive shafts are the first up, as usual with this car they were covered in the crusty stuff, and the grease had started to get a bit thin so at the gearbox end there was quite a bit of grease all over the place, as the seals were also a bit tired after 26 years.

I never bothered sending the drive shafts away to be blasted, even though the company that does all my shot blasting & powered coating is very good. The blasting is done by a machine and I did not what the internals damaged if the masking or whatever they use to protect the parts not to be blasted fails. So it was out with with twist knot wheel, and various other wire brushes to sort this lot out.

Yes I know it's the hub but it got done at the same time.

1- hubs.jpg
2-outer.jpg
3-inner.jpg
4-shaft.jpg

So before the parts were stripped all the old grease was removed from the inner and outer joints. Have to say it was a bit of a sod getting the inner joint off the shaft! All my other Audi's have been easy once you remove the circlip. Had to press these things off...

So all stripped & cleaned ready for epoxy.
5-ready.jpg
6-ready.jpg
To protect the threads I just use ear plugs they do a good job, and they are cheap enough.
7-ready.jpg
Quick application of Fe rust converter as you can never get it all removed, even more so with the ABS rings.
7-rust gone.jpg

Few good coats of epoxy, and yes the ABS rings got paint as well. I've done this on many Audi's over the years and never had any ABS issues with paint on the ABS ring. The rust on them was far thicker than the applied paint.
8-paint.jpg
Also I did not paint the wheel side of the hub, just the inner side that you can not see but you know it going to be covered in rust when you remove it, so it gets a lick of paint.

All done apart from one o-clip that I made a mess of some how and had to buy a new one!
9-done.jpg

The masking tape was to remind me which side is which. I know they are different lengths, but I've made that mistake before, and wondered why the gearbox did not fit...

Next up some new brake pipes. The ones that get rapped around the strut where on solid, and looked a bit nasty so they the chop!

Had plenty of VW brake pipe from replacing all of the brake pipes on my B5, include a 3 meter run which had about 30 bends to it. That was fun to make!

So these were the old pipes
1-old.jpg

New pipes cut to length & coating removed from the ends
2-pipe.jpg


I've got a hand flaring tool, but it's very hit & miss. Vice mount tools works every time first time.
3-pipetool.jpg

Made sure I put both connectors on before flaring the other end. Made that mistake a few times.
4-pipe.jpg

New V old.5-new.jpg


Next up the passenger side wing to sort, another job that was going to be done next year but, thought sod it I may as well get it done!